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  #1  
Old 03-25-2009
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New C&C 24 Project Boat

I just started on my newest project and can use help from anyone who's tackled anything like this.

The boat was a yard derelict for about 6 years and has hull damage (dents with cracks) where the rear pads contact the hull. The yard was not a sailboat yard and, unfortunately (stupidly, if the truth is told) had the tongue of the trailer tipped up which made any water which found its way in over time to migrate to the stern creating an unloading of the keel and loading of the the 2-3 square feet area of the cradle pads.

Along with being filthy and having had water standing in it, I think it is very salvageable. It was abandoned by the original owner and is fairly well equippped with a 110, 150, drifter and spinnaker.

My first projects have included complete dewatering and removing all interior cushions. I have made an initial inspection of the hull damage and it appears that it is manageable.

Along with all of the other goodies, I have the original paperwork which includes the C&C owners manual in a 3-ring binder. I'll be happy to scan and share if anyone has the need.

I'll post more as time allows.

Murph'
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Old 03-25-2009
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Nice boat, well worth saving! That is a pretty tough hull, I would be surprised if improper storage could produce anything other than cosmetic damage...if you can get the weight off the pads and sound the area, or have a surveyor do so, I bet you'll find it still solid - just sand and paint and go.

Make sure you have clear legal ownership before you pour your heart into fixing her up...
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Old 03-25-2009
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24 C @ C

I have cleaned up and brought a 24 C@C back in shape. Some pictures before would help get an idea of what you have to work with. I was ready to sell it after taking a close look(I bought it on ebay). It cleaned up well and even though it had a surface crack on the port side possibly from a cradle pad the hull is solid and you'll be surprised how seaworthy these boats are. Check the windows as most of them need to be recaulked using an ultraglaze sealant by GE. It is a great boat to singlehand, very versatile and has great lines. Added a autohelm to make singlehanding a breeze(rolller furling came with it). Good luck and send us after pictures, too.
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Old 03-26-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ahab211 View Post
I have cleaned up and brought a 24 C@C back in shape. Some pictures before would help get an idea of what you have to work with. I was ready to sell it after taking a close look(I bought it on ebay). It cleaned up well and even though it had a surface crack on the port side possibly from a cradle pad the hull is solid and you'll be surprised how seaworthy these boats are. Check the windows as most of them need to be recaulked using an ultraglaze sealant by GE. It is a great boat to singlehand, very versatile and has great lines. Added a autohelm to make singlehanding a breeze(rolller furling came with it). Good luck and send us after pictures, too.
these windows are sealed by butle tape and a rubber seal from the factory.
the butle seals the frame, window and the rubber seal works with the frame to hold the window tight and deflect water.
if you used ge sealant or any type of silicone you will be doing the job again very soon.
the parts to do the job to spec can be purchased at Holland Marine Products
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Last edited by cnc33voodoo; 03-26-2009 at 11:03 AM.
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Old 03-27-2009
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window seals

Thanks, Good to know but I haven't had a problem with this product in two years. 3M 5200 which is also a popular sealant was a disaster and leaked almost immediately. If I have a problem I'll try your suggestion.
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Old 03-27-2009
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More on the 24 (#2)

I decided that an investment in a survey would be wise and have one scheduled for next Monday.

While I continue to clean and inspect, I find that it looks very promising with some very iffy areas. I jacked it up enough to take the rear pads off to inspect the dents.

While the starboard side is dented with only an apparent first layer crack, the port side has a substantial delamination that runs along the interior bulkhead. While this would be easily repairable in another location, I have my doubts on whether it can be done without removing the bulkhead. I hoping the surveyor can confirm that a repair from the oustide can be done without the need to cut out a whole section.

My main concern, and motivation for having an expert take a look, is whether a history of water sitting in the boat has weakened any structure which might jeopardize hull integrity - particularly in the keel attachment structure.

Thanks for the tips on rebedding the windows; I'd bet that (over time) quite a bit of the water damage I see was due to either window or chain plate water instrusion.

Once I get the go ahead on the inspection, I'll try to post pictures as I proceed.

It sure is a shame that a fine boat like this got damaged through neglect.
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Old 04-01-2009
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I had the survey and verified most everything I already knew but learned quite a bit from the soundings and moisture readings.

As I suspected, I have a fair amount of hull moisture - primarily in the bilge area that is with the boat to stay. Fortunately, there was no evidence of any delamination from frozen moisture that affected structural integrity.

I was surpirsed that the surveyor suggested I leave the deformed hull in place and build up to fair from the outside with additional layers of glass.

While I didn't feel that the water damage to the aft bulkhead was that bad, he suggested that I repair that area. After seeing that I will be unable to access the tabs on the cabin side (although I could on the lazarette side), I have decided to cut out the center lower portion and sister in a partial bulkhead with tabbing only on one side.

The sides and outboard sections of the old bulkhead will remain tabbed as-is and I will glass and through-bolt the 3/4" marine ply sister to it with tabbing along the entire bottom and sides on the lazerette side only.

Fitting the sister in on the port side will require a bit of trimming since the huge interior dent will intefere.

Before I get to doing the outside glass work, I may try jacking and shoring the dents to let them sit for awhile in hopes that they may take a new set in a more normal profile.

Here are some photos of the outside of the hull damage: C&C 24 Hull Damage From Improper Trailer Storage

Last edited by captainmurph; 04-01-2009 at 11:51 AM. Reason: Typos
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Old 04-01-2009
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From the looks of it i would take a pass on this boat.
Not to discount what the surveyer said but he's not the one who will be doing the work and its easier said than done.
My guess is that these repairs will outweigh the value of the boat, even if the boat and your labour is free.
locally I have seen these boats for sale between the $3500-10000 mark, most with simple cosmetic issues and/or old running gear.
I bought a previous boat, a mirage 24 (also a c&c design) 8 years ago for 5k.it had a fairly new 10hp honda,new harken furling,fairly new sails and a solid hull and deck with no moisture.
when i was at a freinds marina last fall i saw this boat Pat Sturgeon Yachts Search Details
, a solid boat that just needs a cleaning.
you will likely spend the asking price in materials before the said c&c hits the water.
For that area to have dimples that severe its pretty much guaranteed that there is moisture in the core.
Also, remember the keel is bolted thru the bottom of the bilge, if there is moisture there and its not repaired it will get worse and make a safety issue as this is a major structural area.
The problems will get worse if you dont cut out the damaged areas and remove the wet core as the moisture that is there will spread and eventually cause delamination to any repair you perform.
Once the core is wet it will only get worse, you cannot isolate it safely.
I personally wouldnt get involved but if you must, you have to do it right or its a waste of effort.
If i was tackling this repair i would work from the inside and cut the first layer of glass until all damaged core is exposed.
once the core is removed it will make the outer layer of glass easier to work with, then you can build on the outer layer of glass to fair it, lay down some new core and build another layer of glass on the inside.
On this boat the bulkheads are bonded to the hull.
If you "patch" the bulkheads this will take away from the structural integrity of the boat and eventually the repair will fail.
You would have to cut out the headliner around the area for access and then remove everything attached to the bulkhead.you can then make a duplicate of the bulkhead and bond it to the hull and then glass your headliner back in and reinstall what was removed.
What did the surveyor have to say about the deck, mast step and cockpit floor?
Just talking about this makes me itchy.
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Last edited by cnc33voodoo; 04-01-2009 at 10:13 PM.
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Old 04-12-2009
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Owners Manual

Hi Captainmurph,
I am about to purchase a c&c 24 on thursday. I have been looking around for as much information on this as possible and I came across your note saying that you had the original owners manual. I would very much appreciate a copy if you wouldn't mind. Any information I find, I will forward to you as well. Although you sound like your fairly familiar with everything already. Thanks in advance.
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Old 04-13-2009
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I might not get around to scanning the whole thing any time soon, so let me know if there is specific information you need.

It will be a month or so before I am able to splash this one and see how it sails but I understand they are farily nimble and comfortable. Let me know if you have an specific questions.

Murph
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