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  #1  
Old 09-22-2010
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Question C&C 32 windows...

...all of them leak! So, for a winter project the plan is to repair/replace. Anyone out there done this and do you have ideas on how to retrofit the windows?

The previous owner repaired one window by taking it out and then putting it back with lots of putty and a million screws; not too aesthetic, and it didnt work. I am looking for a "permanent" solution that will be low-maintenance.

All ideas welcome.
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Old 09-22-2010
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Knowing the year will help... earlier C&Cs used framed ports, whereas later models (1980 or so on) are glued in. How you deal with them may differ.

btw do a bit of a search here on SN - there are several threads tackling the topic.
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1984 Fast/Nicholson 345 "FastForward"

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Old 09-24-2010
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the boat is a C&C 32v from 1981. The forward windows are fine. It's the aft windows, which look like a repair job was done on them, that are not fine.
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Old 09-24-2010
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Try this:

Portlight Replacement
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1984 Fast/Nicholson 345 "FastForward"

".. there is much you could do at sea with common sense.. and very little you could do without it.."
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Old 09-24-2010
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thank you! that's a great reference!
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Old 10-10-2010
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I have rebuilt the ports on my C&C 34 1981 last year. all the old ones leaked. I just bought the boat, my first. So all this was new to me. But I had all winter to research materials and such. The old windows were fastened with screws. I didnt like that. So i decided for my new ports i would only glue them in place.

First clean the frames. I had major gelcote cracking so i sanded them down until i got to a depth where the crack was gone. I found a lot of air spaces in the corners of the fiberglass frames so i filled them up with epoxy. i used west systems fast. i did add some fillers to thicken it up. After all the sanding the frame was uneven. i cut out an enlarged template of my existing windows in high density fiberboard. It was about 2mm larger then the windows. i put a slick red contractors tape on the edges of the template. filled the frames with epoxy and put the template back into the opening tight and let it set. the tape does not stick to epoxy. i found mold release not too reliable. after i popped out the template i had a new perfect frame. Next i should have painted the areas of the frame that would have sealant with Sikaflex Primer. that would have made the windows last 100 years. ok. so i got new ports. u want to prepare them by sanding down the antiscratch coating around the perimiter of the plexiglass. tape off what ever u dont want to sand. next i painted the sanded down strip with the sikaflex primer. btw the stuff is expensive and they sell it in bottles way too big for the job but its something u have to do. oh u u want to oversize this strip a couple mm further then the sealant will reach. basically this primer blocks suns UV from destroying the sealant. same principle as car windows. ok next u have to prepare the window frame. i used 3m high density double sided tape strips as a spacer on my windows. small strips around the perimeter. originally i was going to use the tape to fasten the windows but i didnít find it was strong enough. this is the tape they use to fasten some car windows in these days. gray stuff. any who u want small pieces placed somewhere in the middle so later on the sealant will cover them up from interior and exterior. u want spacing of 2mm at least around the window and on the back of the window. these things expand a lot so u want good flexibility. the final step is load the frames with a lot of BoatLife Lifeseal sealant. i used black. then press down the windows into the frame and leave it to set for a day or 2. i didnt use any screws and after a season they held up perfect. but it would have been better if i put the primer on the frame. oh well. Ill one day post a tutorial on my website h t t p : / / egstasea.blogspot . com u can also search for egstasea in google mine is the first link that pops up. the only issue is it does not link to the homepages for some reason so u have to click the banner once the site opens to navigate to the homepage. not sure how to fix that bug. anywho hope that helps. basically read a lot before you start this job. also make sure u pre fit everything with the proper gaps.

Good luck.
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Old 10-11-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jablonsa View Post
I have rebuilt the ports on my C&C 34 1981 last year. all the old ones leaked. ....
Good luck.
Thank you for the detailed advice. Where did you get the new windows?
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Old 10-14-2010
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Well i found a local plexiglass supplier at the boat show, I live in Toronto. My profession involves the use of AutoCAD so i drew up each window electronically in 3d and they were able to cut them out exactly to specification. But usually you can simply send them your old windows (cleaned) as a template. I also modified the original windows. I used smaller chamfers to increase the surface area.

I ordered .375" Bronze Acrylic and i think i got a 2'x4' panel and requested them send me the left overs because I have a small washroom window that i will one day end up replacing too when it starts leaking. they charged me 340 and came to 415 with shipping and taxes. So I think it was worth it doing it myself because I gained experience, and I know the strengths and weaknesses of the windows on a personal level lol.

MAS Precision Plastics Inc.
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1680 Midland Ave. Unit 4
Toronto, Ontario, M1P 3C6

Patrickl at ontarioplastics.ca
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Old 10-18-2010
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I replaced all of my glued in port lights on my 79 C&C 38 Landfall last year. The ports cost me $110 including shipping from a local plastic dealer PLastic Supply in Tacoma, WA. (800) 832-6774.
I made paterns of the original port lights, and had a local plastics supply cut new ones. Removed old ports and cleaned all old sealant out of the cut outs. Next I fitted new ports to fit with about 3/16ths clearance around new port light, I did one side of boat one day and turned it around in slip for the other side. Once I had a good fit on the port lights I taped every place I did not want sealant. Sealant and me don't mix I seem to get it everyplace but where it should be. Next I primed the cut outs and a 3/4 to 1 inch wide stripe on the new lights along with the edge with Sika Primer 209d. This stuff dries fast and is cleaned up with acetone. Next was to lay a tall bead (1/2inch)down the outer 1/4 of the window cutout with Sikaflex 295UV. Press the new port light into place and smooth squeezed out sealant with a tongue depressor (finger also works) filling in areas that are shy of sealant. You want all voids to be fill (no air pockets). Do this on both sides of the port. The sealant will set in about 30 minutes and be fully cured in about 24-48 hours.
This is the same proceedure used when boats are built new, from what I have been told. So far no leaks.
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