Raymarine E120 Problems - SailNet Community
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post #1 of 16 Old 08-07-2008 Thread Starter
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Question Raymarine E120 Problems

I recently upgraded my display to an E120 Display and am curious if
anyone else has experienced the following problem.

While motoring at night I dim the brightness setting. I don't use the
night setting as I feel it is too dim. What happens is every 5 - 10
minutes the display will either go dark then momentarily go to full
brightness then back to my dimness setting or just go full brightness
momentarily then back to my dimness setting.

Raymarine's tech services says they haven't heard of this problem
before, so it's must be low voltage. If is not that then I should
send in my display so they can check it out. The unit is new and
according to Raymarine has any improvements already incorporated into it.

The below boats are experiencing the same problem, they are:

Tom Jeremiason, Camelot, C470 - 145
Dick Dresler, Last Resort, C470 - 140
Bill Martinelli, Voyager, C470 - 11
Roger Frizzelle 470 #147 same problem E 120
Roger Goddsell 42 same problem E 120
Jesse Hibdon 440 # 25 same problem E120
Joe Rocchio, Onward, C470 126


Please let me know if you are having the same problem.

Thanks,

Bill Martinelli
Voyager, #11
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post #2 of 16 Old 10-28-2008
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Angry Raymarine lies

I have 3 e-120 screens on a Neptunus 56 (sorry Power Boat ) a 25K investment in electronics and Yes I have the same problem.. even after Raymarine said they fixed the screens and swapped them out for other screens . I threatned to protest at the Ft Lauderdale boat show so I got new screens all are OK except one Very Very annoying SHAME on you Raymarine
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post #3 of 16 Old 10-28-2008
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I'll state that overall from the c-70 display I have and the multiple e-120's... the e series are dog slow and that may be be source of the problem...I haven't been impressed with the $$ spent for supposedly better technology...

-- Jody

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post #4 of 16 Old 05-11-2009
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Bill - I am hoping you are still tracking this thread. I am experiencing the exact same issue with my e120. At night, the screen will go black and then come back on in super bright mode, then back to the lower light setting. I think it only happens when I have the radar on (which is always at night). Did you ever locate a solution to the problem?
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post #5 of 16 Old 05-11-2009
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Bill, same here, as I use it exactly as you describe. I found E's very sensitive to voltage drop and line noise. I ran a direct cable from bat to the display, installed magnetic braker protection and ferrites for noise reduction, and finally removed Seatalk power distribution from it (now ST 60 are powered independently, and E120 wired for data only). The problem reduced dramatically, and now it appears rarely (once in a week sailing). The same happened to my old E80 (3 years ago).
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post #6 of 16 Old 05-12-2009
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Is this with the latest firmware installed? The last update I did (think in Jan) resolved most of my issues with the display. While motoring there should never be drop in voltage if the alternator is running properly as that should be the primary source on the DC line. The units will run fine down to about 10V, but any 3 millisecond or more below - will basically recycle the units.

Pumps etc that when run that pull enough to flicker lights will do the same to the e-series. I have a water pump that when it starts, pulls enough juice to flicker the lights, reset the radio etc. The question is I guess is anything else running that requires a surge on the DC power side that can contribute to this scenario? NOte that I run a C-70, E-120 and full on Sirius, HD Depth, and other R$ymarine accessories.

Also note - when you install and have the ST displays wired independently, and all other items on separate circuits - you can expect the Any-Raymarine display to cycle. For instance, power up your E-120, then the Sirius Weather module cycles (or just turn it on or off) - it will cycle the E-120. It is not like USB and a true plug and play. When attached components cycle out due to wiring / defects, etc... it will always effect the displays and cause them to recycle. Why? Do not know but it is how it works.

The issue with motoring is maybe a complicated issue, as sailing and low battery will always cause that issue:

1. Alternator not at best performance. Personally, it either works or doesn't but do check the connections and verify output.
2. Vibrations of the motor is making a loose connection, lose the connection sporatically. I'd say 90% of installs with Raymarine components require splicing for boats over 30 feet.
3. Another system onboard is drawing more start-up and needs to be put on a relay.
4. Defective instruments. Anytime a Seatalk, NG, or NMEA device is detected to go offline - the software for the display senses and assumes a power failure. Again - its not a plug and play system in the pc sense.
5. Defective Display.

Just random thoughts.

-- Jody

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post #7 of 16 Old 08-13-2009
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Rick

I have the same problem with my 2 -- e 120 units it seems the more I dim the units at night the the more they shut down then come back on --- brighter then back to where they were. I tested my power at the fuse bar at the units and the voltage was low. Tomorrow installing new larger wire to fuse bar direct from battery lead. I will let you know what happens.
Rick
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post #8 of 16 Old 08-13-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by looptight View Post
I have the same problem with my 2 -- e 120 units it seems the more I dim the units at night the the more they shut down then come back on --- brighter then back to where they were. I tested my power at the fuse bar at the units and the voltage was low. Tomorrow installing new larger wire to fuse bar direct from battery lead. I will let you know what happens.
Rick
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That is a bad battery indication. E-120s operate on about 11.5 avg for optimum+ perf. The display unit itself will do exactly that when the batts are less than the voltage.. You can however make the seatalk network display instrument data without the display (they run on about 8 volts when needed). For displays when Raymarine states 12 - 24V - they mean it. A bad battery will supply the amps (short term) but necessarily the not voltage you are looking for..

-- Jody

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post #9 of 16 Old 08-14-2009
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e 120

Well -- you were right -- I had a battery --- I also set a fuse box at nav. station and ran # 6 copper to it -- all is running great.
Thanks
Rick
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post #10 of 16 Old 01-25-2010
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E120 failure

Hi Bill, yes same problem here. To make matters worse, the first time I needed it, coming off the ocean at cape fear the other night at 9pm, just as I was coming into the cut, and relying totally on it for depth and radar, it blanked out on me. Could have cost me dearly. Do you know if there is a Raymarine contact who will deal with this?

Thanks, Rick
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