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Go Back   SailNet Community > Boat Builders Row > Cabo Rico
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  #1  
Old 04-09-2009
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Interior Teak

How do you treat your interior teak?
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Old 04-09-2009
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Varnished.
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Old 04-09-2009
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I am thinking of polyurethane on mine. It is not in the sun so it should hold up fine
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Old 04-09-2009
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Depends on the condition and if it was treated (varnished) before. Lemon oil works well for restoring the luster if it is unvarnished or varnish is good shape. Most teak in the interior is actually veneer. A good teak oil, lemon oil, and even "Old English" can be enough. The interior usually doesn't experience the rigors of teak topside (which should be treated with Giu's "Nothing" tm).... Go all out with a light sanding and add your varnish of choice or use the suggestion listed previously.
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Old 05-12-2009
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Polyurethane is good--when it gets scuffed you can fine sand it and put a new coat on it and it looks new. Also you can chuck a wet towel on it without staining it brown!!! And it lasts a long time, no treating weekly to keep it looking good.
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Old 05-12-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinini View Post
Polyurethane is good--when it gets scuffed you can fine sand it and put a new coat on it and it looks new. Also you can chuck a wet towel on it without staining it brown!!! And it lasts a long time, no treating weekly to keep it looking good.
Maybe I have it wrong but I have always been under the impression that polyurethane can not be touched up easy or repaired. That is one of the upsides of varnish. It can be repaired and touched up.
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Old 05-13-2009
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Yeah me too, until I did one side of my Companion Way hatch with 10 coats of varnish and the other side with two coats of polyurathane. The polyurathane looks better and when it finally got scuffed on the edges I sanded it a little and recoated the scuffed areas with fast dry polyurathane and WooLa just like new. And it comes off with a heat gun just like varnish and costs less too! Old ways die hard though.
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Old 05-13-2009
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Yeah me too, until I did one side of my Companion Way hatch with 10 coats of varnish and the other side with two coats of polyurathane. The polyurathane looks better and when it finally got scuffed on the edges I sanded it a little and recoated the scuffed areas with fast dry polyurathane and WooLa just like new. And it comes off with a heat gun just like varnish and costs less too! Old ways die hard though.
That is great to know, my hatch boards didn't last a season with varnish.
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Old 06-11-2009
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Just make sure it's exterior polyurathane if your using it topside!
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Old 06-12-2009
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Surprised to see anyone still over here..most CR owners have gone to..

Discussions - caborico | Google Groups

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Clay AA3JY
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