Cal 29 beam rot - Page 3 - SailNet Community

   Search Sailnet:

 forums  store  


Quick Menu
Forums           
Articles          
Galleries        
Boat Reviews  
Classifieds     
Search SailNet 
Boat Search (new)

Shop the
SailNet Store
Anchor Locker
Boatbuilding & Repair
Charts
Clothing
Electrical
Electronics
Engine
Hatches and Portlights
Interior And Galley
Maintenance
Marine Electronics
Navigation
Other Items
Plumbing and Pumps
Rigging
Safety
Sailing Hardware
Trailer & Watersports
Clearance Items

Advertise Here






Go Back   SailNet Community > Boat Builders Row > Cal
 Not a Member? 


Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #21  
Old 08-13-2013
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 2
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Rep Power: 0
shipwreck is on a distinguished road
Re: Cal 29 beam rot

Anyone interested, I fixed mine on the water, in a month, for around $500 total! I've got a photo-log of the whole thing. I didn't remove bulkheads, I did maintain beam to bulkhead connection (it should be duly noted and accommodated that the steel beam was intended for more than just holding the mast up--just filling in the vacant cavity with foam/fiberglass isn't enough) and, once it was back together, there wasn't a trace that I'd ripped her apart. Then I sailed it a thousand miles to Mexico. If you need some help/hope, hit me up for details. -Shipwreck
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #22  
Old 08-13-2013
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 17
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
devemaster is on a distinguished road
Re: Cal 29 beam rot

Shipwreck-

I think that many could benefit from hearing more about how you did it. Please post more details with pictures id you have them. Or maybe a link to your blog? Thanks.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #23  
Old 08-13-2013
tommays's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 4,272
Thanks: 1
Thanked 27 Times in 27 Posts
Rep Power: 7
tommays will become famous soon enough
Re: Cal 29 beam rot

i am always up to learn how someone else solved a problem
__________________
1970 Cal 29 Sea Fever

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

1981 J24 Tangent 2930
Tommays
Northport NY


If a dirty bottom slows you down what do you think it does to your boat
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #24  
Old 08-18-2013
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 2
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Rep Power: 0
shipwreck is on a distinguished road
Re: Cal 29 beam rot

BEAM ME UP SHIPWRECK!!!

Sorry, I was out doing a charter... So, anyway, I'm a lot more boat-savvy than computer-savvy. I can email pictures--but I'm not sure how I put them on here... I'll try to be descriptive.

How I did it...

1. Beam removal:

A. To take the load off the compression post, I lowered the mast using the boom as cantilever--I'm sure you know the drill.

B. Then, I removed the sliding door, it's wooden slider from the floor, and the wooden starboard stow-space panel to allow full access to the fiberglass sole (My new boat didn't have a toilet installed, so no removal necessary there).

C. Using one of those handy-dandy Harbor Freight Oscillating Tools and a shop-vac I cut out the sole along lines that would be completely hidden when I re-installed the door slider-thingy (hmm is that the proper term?)--in other words, within an inch of the bulkhead.

D. Using a block and tackle rigged to the downed mast through the hatch I was able to break the sole free of it's polyester bond to the hull (it was only bonded in a few blobs). And there she was--that blasted beam--rusted through and through.

E. I opened up the port settee and cut-&-vac'ed enough of the sole away from the tabs to allow my handy-dandy Harbor Freights 3" grinder space to cut the steel without throwing any fiberglass dust about (I was living aboard as I was working and, obviously, could not stand fiberglass dust)

F. For the starboard tab, I used the oscillator to cut away just enough of the bulkhead to allow it to escape intact.

G. Then, out came the handy-dandy Harbor Freights 3" grinder. I cut off the central and port tabs and then cut the beam in half. At that point, removal wasn't much more of a challenge.

2. Beam replacement.

A. Instead of paying out the wazzooo for a custom made marine grade stainless steel beam, I decided to rely on time-tested, tried-and-true, old-(and new)-fashioned boat building methods... I only paid out the wazzooo for a bit of 1/4" marine grade stainless steel L-Bar and a few extended-lengthed tabs to be thru-bolted to it all, totalling under $200. (NOTE: One of the tabs was super-extended to account for the starboard bulkhead attachment being only lag-screwed, and, thus, requiring additional fastener points for added strength)

B. I traced the beam (minus all three tabs) onto two planks of Douglass Fir and cut them out. I cut them a little smaller in overall size to account/allow for the impending encasement in glass. In addition, I cut them 1/4" short (meaning from top to bottom--not side to side) to allow for the eventual addition of the L-Bar across the top. And, if for naught but a tribute to how things should have been, I cut a 1.5" arch out of the centers of their bottoms to allow for the inevitable icebox drainage to flow freely to the bilge.

C. I drilled them for bolting.

D. Then, I bolted the two together with counter-sunk heavy duty marine grade stainless steel bolts, sandwiching between them a laminate of mat, roving, and polyester resin (I'm still a big fan of polyester--yes, yes, I know Epoxy is better in every way [except price], but polyester has worked well in boat-building for decades and, well, as cool as titanium hammers are, I still use steel.)

E. I encased the entire beam--stainless bolts and all--in a heavy layer of glass matt & roving.

F. I then fitted the L-Bar to the top of the beam and drilled two holes in the central and port tabs, through the L-Bar and through the beam for eventual heavy-duty-marine-grade-stainless-steel bolt assembly.

G. I sealed all 4 holes in the beam with polyester resin and now had a completely water-proof beam complete L-Bar reinforcement and all but the starboard tab.

3. Fitting. (before preparing the starboard tab, which would now be on the forward side of the bulkhead, some fit-work was in order)

A. To account for some 40 years of compression and material memory and to reset to allow for another 40, I used a car-jack directly under the compression post to lift the sole, and thus the post, and thus the deck by around 1/3" or so. With the sole raised, I hammered a few sacrificial 2"-square chunks of cheap particle board underneath on both starboard and port sides to maintain the new height for fitting and installation (eventually, under compression and with exposure to excessive moisture they would crush and erode away)

B. I faired the hull from where the former beam had been semi-glassed in

C. Under the settee, I lag-screwed on fiberglassed 9"x9" plywood backing plates over where the previous tabs had been and sealed them with polyurethane (5200). Then I drilled for the new tabs

D. On the forward side of the starboard bulkhead, I also lag-screwed and 52'd a backing plate.

E. I masked the hull under where the beam would lay then bolted the new tabs in place and temporarily assembled the entire beam (tabs-to-L-Bar-to-beam) to check fit.

E. Using single strips of finishing cloth, I glassed the bottom of the beam to the masked hull so that, upon removal, I would have an accurate depiction of where my beam needed filled in with more glass for a snug fit.

F. I marked the starboard backing plate on the beam

G. Removing the beam and L-Bar, and using the thin finishing cloth markers, I filled in more glass for a snug fit

H. I cut a slice into the starboard side of the beam and L-Bar allowing for the third and final extra-large tab to slide in. Then I drilled through the beam, the tab, more beam, and the L-Bar for bolting.

I. I sealed the beam with polyester.

J. Then, I bolted the starboard tab in place--sandwiched within the beam and thru-bolted to the L-Bar.

4. Assembly/Reinstallation

A. From there, well, you can surely figure out the rest... Hammer the beam & L-Bar back in with a rubber mallet. Bolt them in place to the central and port-side tabs (thoroughly sealing all bolt-holes in the process, of course) and lag-screwing the starboard tab in place (mind you, here I did use epoxy to seal the screw-to-wood-bonds from corrosion).

B. Put the mast back up

C. Glass the floor back down (I waited 2 months for this, just so I could thoroughly check my work through some rough sailing before semi-permanently hiding it away from sight) again with Polyester (come on, nothing on a boat is final until you sell it or it sinks! Epoxy is wonderful and all, but it is not the answer to every question [and, while we're on the topic, neither is 5200!!!]--besides, that's how they glassed it down originally). Fair.

C. Reinstall all wood

D. Put in a head

Ta Da!

(It's 4:42AM... I gotta go to bed)

-Shipwreck
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
The Following User Says Thank You to shipwreck For This Useful Post:
tgzzzz (11-15-2013)
  #25  
Old 11-15-2013
Capt Blithe
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 46
Thanks: 2
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
tgzzzz is on a distinguished road
Re: Cal 29 beam rot

Outstanding write up. Thanks.

'76 2-29
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #26  
Old 06-24-2014
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Near Tacoma Washington
Posts: 1
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
CalSkipper is on a distinguished road
Re: Cal 29 beam rot

Hello, I know Iím late to the party here but I thought Iíd post re the transverse beam. I have a 1972 Cal 29 and replaced the transverse beam last winter. Much of my beam could be removed with a shop vac. We made a mold and have created two beams now out of fiberglass. I would be happy to provide photos or converse with anyone who might be interested in more details.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #27  
Old 06-24-2014
Capt Blithe
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 46
Thanks: 2
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
tgzzzz is on a distinguished road
Re: Cal 29 beam rot

Quote:
Originally Posted by CalSkipper View Post
Hello, I know Iím late to the party here but I thought Iíd post re the transverse beam. I have a 1972 Cal 29 and replaced the transverse beam last winter. Much of my beam could be removed with a shop vac. We made a mold and have created two beams now out of fiberglass. I would be happy to provide photos or converse with anyone who might be interested in more details.
Photos would sure be welcome, sir. Thx
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #28  
Old 08-07-2014
1974 Cal 29
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Bradenton, FL
Posts: 30
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
Seafarer is on a distinguished road
Re: Cal 29 beam rot

Here is a video review of a USB Endoscope (bore-scope) you can buy off E-Bay for less than $20 shipped:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ee7Pr4XsDGw

Here is a link to the Ebay auction:


This is the cheapest auction I could find for this product, and it even includes a 90-degree mirror attachment, which is a nice touch.

I'll buy one after I've moved my boat closer to home. Heck, once I've moved it, it will be my home! For now, I'm not spending money on anything that doesn't contribute to that goal!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

By choosing to post the reply above you agree to the rules you agreed to when joining Sailnet.
Click Here to view those rules.

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the SailNet Community forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
Please note: After entering 3 characters a list of Usernames already in use will appear and the list will disappear once a valid Username is entered.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

 
Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may post attachments
You may edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Cal 20-- Excellent Starter Boat Jim H Cal 8 03-17-2013 11:21 AM
Cal 39 owners techjunc Cal 3 05-05-2012 06:34 PM
What can you tell from the numbers? brazilnut Boat Review and Purchase Forum 10 07-01-2009 04:09 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:32 AM.

Add to My Yahoo!         
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
SEO by vBSEO 3.6.1
(c) Marine.com LLC 2000-2012

The SailNet.com store is owned and operated by a company independent of the SailNet.com forum. You are now leaving the SailNet forum. Click OK to continue or Cancel to return to the SailNet forum.