Cal 29 Fuel Tank Replacement - SailNet Community
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 7 Old 10-19-2010 Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 1
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
 
Cal 29 Fuel Tank Replacement

Just acquired a well maintained 1979 Cal 29. However the original 20 gal tank leaks. After inspecting the area dimensions, it seems as if the aft cabin compartment walls need to be removed in order to get the tanks in and out. Does anyone have any first hand experience with this?
dantorch is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 7 Old 10-19-2010
Just another Moderator
 
Faster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: New Westminster, BC
Posts: 16,534
Thanks: 104
Thanked 312 Times in 300 Posts
Rep Power: 10
     
Dan

I've moved your post to the Cal forum, where it may get more attention than tacking onto Denise's ODay thread.

Tommays... service call aisle 1!

Ron

1984 Fast/Nicholson 345 "FastForward"

".. there is much you could do at sea with common sense.. and very little you could do without it.."
Capt G E Ericson (from "The Cruel Sea" by Nicholas Monsarrat)
Faster is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #3 of 7 Old 10-20-2010
Old as Dirt!
 
svHyLyte's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Tampa Bay Area
Posts: 2,935
Thanks: 15
Thanked 129 Times in 122 Posts
Rep Power: 7
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dantorch View Post
Just acquired a well maintained 1979 Cal 29. However the original 20 gal tank leaks. After inspecting the area dimensions, it seems as if the aft cabin compartment walls need to be removed in order to get the tanks in and out. Does anyone have any first hand experience with this?
In 1999 we had to replace the fuel tank on our, then, 1976 Cal 2-29. Removing the old tank and installing the new required the removal of a portion of the longitudinal bulkhead between the engine compartment and the port quarterberth. One must leave enough of the bulkhead in place around the edges of the cut-out to allow one to install backing plates to the edges of the opening when it is time to reinstall the cut-out. One thing to keep an eye on is he support base for the tank which must be very sturdy. Also, one does not want the tank to rest flush against the transverse bulk-head between the engine compartment and the stern locker or it will be subject to wear and potentially corrosion. We had an approxmately 18 gallon stainless steel tank made up that just fit through the cut-out though that effort was a trial. The 18 gallons gave us roughly 36 hours of running time on our Yanmar 2GM20F engine or a powered range of about 180 miles.

FWIW...

"It is not so much for its beauty that the sea makes a claim upon men's hearts, as for that subtle something, that quality of air, that emanation from the waves, that so wonderfully renews a weary spirit."

Last edited by svHyLyte; 10-20-2010 at 10:43 AM. Reason: Correct Typo's
svHyLyte is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #4 of 7 Old 10-20-2010
Senior Member
 
tommays's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 4,296
Thanks: 1
Thanked 30 Times in 30 Posts
Rep Power: 7
 


I did a new mount as the orginal was water trap and i had to size it to allow the tank to sit on plastic strips



And the same thing open up the port bulkhead to allow room for the tank to be installed

1970 Cal 29 Sea Fever

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

1981 J24 Tangent 2930
Tommays
Northport NY


If a dirty bottom slows you down what do you think it does to your boat
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
tommays is online now  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #5 of 7 Old 10-22-2010
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Kingston Washington
Posts: 530
Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Rep Power: 6
 
I replaced my fuel tank on my Cal 29 recently. It wasn't leaking but I was concerned about the corrosion in a gasoline tank. I pulled my Atomic 4 and then took the fuel tank out. The tank came out easily and there was no need to take out any bulkheads. The engine removal was easy as well. After taking of the peripherals I but a 2" thick board under the engine. pried the engine up and slid it out on its oil pan.

This is a good time to rebuild your engine or repower since it's out. Also to repaint and work over the fuel, cooling and exhaust systems. I also replaced the tube on my stuffing box.

I had a local aluminum boat builder make a tank to my specs. The builder was a credible boat builder and properly tested it and put on requisite label plates. The cost was about what I would have paid for a pre-built tank and able I to increase capacity to 30 gal by making the front end lean forward.

I had planned to rebuild but am now repowering with a diesel. Fortunately I had the builder put in a boss for a return line which you need on a diesel. I regret not having him put in a hand hole for cleaning as well which is also desirable for diesel as the algae can grow in the water at the bottom of the tank. Think also about how you're going to hold the tank down and the fittings that you may need welded on or that. You may also want to think if you want a fitting for a fuel gage (I didn't want one). I'd recommend that if you're building a tank have the builder put in an internal baffle to minimize sloshing. This isn't critical but I think it's a good idea. The fuel suction tube should be some inches of the bottom so it doesn't pickup sludge.

Some things with aluminum tanks if you go that way. You need make sure that water doesn't get trapped against the aluminum. I found some design info on line on mounting aluminum tanks and followed that. I built a new platform for the tank to sit on, attached a number fore and aft wood strakes to minimize the surface area in contact with the tank then fiberglassed it to prevent water soaking into the wood which would have the surfaces be wet much o the time. Also it's important that the fittings that you screw into the tank are aluminum or a metal that won't give you dissimilar metal corrosion problems.

I reused my original Volvo wet exhaust muffler. Had I wanted to put in a new muffler like the Centek cylinder shaped ones I'd have a tight fit with my larger tank
Waltthesalt is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #6 of 7 Old 10-22-2010
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Kingston Washington
Posts: 530
Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Rep Power: 6
 
I just looked at the photo in the previous reply to your message. to clear up any confusion, the tank on my '74 cal ran athwartships accross the aft bulkhead and the platform sat in the hull. The installation in the photo appears to run fore and aft on the stbd side.
Cheers and good lck
Waltthesalt is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #7 of 7 Old 10-22-2010
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Kingston Washington
Posts: 530
Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Rep Power: 6
 
I replaced my fuel tank on my Cal 29 recently. It wasn't leaking but I was concerned about the corrosion in a gasoline tank. I pulled my Atomic 4 and then took the fuel tank out. The tank came out easily and there was no need to take out any bulkheads. The engine removal was easy as well. After taking of the peripherals I but a 2" thick board under the engine. pried the engine up and slid it out on its oil pan.

This is a good time to rebuild your engine or repower since it's out. Also to repaint and work over the fuel, cooling and exhaust systems. I also replaced the tube on my stuffing box.

I had a local aluminum boat builder make a tank to my specs. The builder was a credible boat builder and properly tested it and put on requisite label plates. The cost was about what I would have paid for a pre-built tank and able I to increase capacity to 30 gal by making the front end lean forward.

I had planned to rebuild but am now repowering with a diesel. Fortunately I had the builder put in a boss for a return line which you need on a diesel. I regret not having him put in a hand hole for cleaning as well which is also desirable for diesel as the algae can grow in the water at the bottom of the tank. Think also about how you're going to hold the tank down and the fittings that you may need welded on or that. You may also want to think if you want a fitting for a fuel gage (I didn't want one). I'd recommend that if you're building a tank have the builder put in an internal baffle to minimize sloshing. This isn't critical but I think it's a good idea. The fuel suction tube should be some inches of the bottom so it doesn't pickup sludge.

Some things with aluminum tanks if you go that way. You need make sure that water doesn't get trapped against the aluminum. I found some design info on line on mounting aluminum tanks and followed that. I built a new platform for the tank to sit on, attached a number fore and aft wood strakes to minimize the surface area in contact with the tank then fiberglassed it to prevent water soaking into the wood which would have the surfaces be wet much o the time. Also it's important that the fittings that you screw into the tank are aluminum or a metal that won't give you dissimilar metal corrosion problems.

I reused my original Volvo wet exhaust muffler. Had I wanted to put in a new muffler like the Centek cylinder shaped ones I'd have a tight fit with my larger tank
Waltthesalt is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

By choosing to post the reply above you agree to the rules you agreed to when joining Sailnet.
Click Here to view those rules.

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the SailNet Community forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
Please note: After entering 3 characters a list of Usernames already in use will appear and the list will disappear once a valid Username is entered.


User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Fuel Tank Replacement 41OI fcsob Morgan 1 01-29-2010 03:36 PM
fuel tank replacement MIKEMCKEE Gear & Maintenance 21 10-05-2008 07:39 PM
350 holding tank replacement help please. geop Island Packet 3 06-06-2008 11:47 AM
C-30 Gas Tank Replacement gclayton Catalina 3 10-14-2007 04:52 PM
Fuel tank Replacement samchristo Pacific Seacraft 3 08-06-2007 09:37 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome