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Old 10-19-2010
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Cal 29 Fuel Tank Replacement

Just acquired a well maintained 1979 Cal 29. However the original 20 gal tank leaks. After inspecting the area dimensions, it seems as if the aft cabin compartment walls need to be removed in order to get the tanks in and out. Does anyone have any first hand experience with this?
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Old 10-19-2010
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I've moved your post to the Cal forum, where it may get more attention than tacking onto Denise's ODay thread.

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Old 10-20-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dantorch View Post
Just acquired a well maintained 1979 Cal 29. However the original 20 gal tank leaks. After inspecting the area dimensions, it seems as if the aft cabin compartment walls need to be removed in order to get the tanks in and out. Does anyone have any first hand experience with this?
In 1999 we had to replace the fuel tank on our, then, 1976 Cal 2-29. Removing the old tank and installing the new required the removal of a portion of the longitudinal bulkhead between the engine compartment and the port quarterberth. One must leave enough of the bulkhead in place around the edges of the cut-out to allow one to install backing plates to the edges of the opening when it is time to reinstall the cut-out. One thing to keep an eye on is he support base for the tank which must be very sturdy. Also, one does not want the tank to rest flush against the transverse bulk-head between the engine compartment and the stern locker or it will be subject to wear and potentially corrosion. We had an approxmately 18 gallon stainless steel tank made up that just fit through the cut-out though that effort was a trial. The 18 gallons gave us roughly 36 hours of running time on our Yanmar 2GM20F engine or a powered range of about 180 miles.

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Last edited by svHyLyte; 10-20-2010 at 10:43 AM. Reason: Correct Typo's
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Old 10-20-2010
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I did a new mount as the orginal was water trap and i had to size it to allow the tank to sit on plastic strips



And the same thing open up the port bulkhead to allow room for the tank to be installed
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Old 10-22-2010
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I replaced my fuel tank on my Cal 29 recently. It wasn't leaking but I was concerned about the corrosion in a gasoline tank. I pulled my Atomic 4 and then took the fuel tank out. The tank came out easily and there was no need to take out any bulkheads. The engine removal was easy as well. After taking of the peripherals I but a 2" thick board under the engine. pried the engine up and slid it out on its oil pan.

This is a good time to rebuild your engine or repower since it's out. Also to repaint and work over the fuel, cooling and exhaust systems. I also replaced the tube on my stuffing box.

I had a local aluminum boat builder make a tank to my specs. The builder was a credible boat builder and properly tested it and put on requisite label plates. The cost was about what I would have paid for a pre-built tank and able I to increase capacity to 30 gal by making the front end lean forward.

I had planned to rebuild but am now repowering with a diesel. Fortunately I had the builder put in a boss for a return line which you need on a diesel. I regret not having him put in a hand hole for cleaning as well which is also desirable for diesel as the algae can grow in the water at the bottom of the tank. Think also about how you're going to hold the tank down and the fittings that you may need welded on or that. You may also want to think if you want a fitting for a fuel gage (I didn't want one). I'd recommend that if you're building a tank have the builder put in an internal baffle to minimize sloshing. This isn't critical but I think it's a good idea. The fuel suction tube should be some inches of the bottom so it doesn't pickup sludge.

Some things with aluminum tanks if you go that way. You need make sure that water doesn't get trapped against the aluminum. I found some design info on line on mounting aluminum tanks and followed that. I built a new platform for the tank to sit on, attached a number fore and aft wood strakes to minimize the surface area in contact with the tank then fiberglassed it to prevent water soaking into the wood which would have the surfaces be wet much o the time. Also it's important that the fittings that you screw into the tank are aluminum or a metal that won't give you dissimilar metal corrosion problems.

I reused my original Volvo wet exhaust muffler. Had I wanted to put in a new muffler like the Centek cylinder shaped ones I'd have a tight fit with my larger tank
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Old 10-22-2010
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I just looked at the photo in the previous reply to your message. to clear up any confusion, the tank on my '74 cal ran athwartships accross the aft bulkhead and the platform sat in the hull. The installation in the photo appears to run fore and aft on the stbd side.
Cheers and good lck
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Old 10-22-2010
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I replaced my fuel tank on my Cal 29 recently. It wasn't leaking but I was concerned about the corrosion in a gasoline tank. I pulled my Atomic 4 and then took the fuel tank out. The tank came out easily and there was no need to take out any bulkheads. The engine removal was easy as well. After taking of the peripherals I but a 2" thick board under the engine. pried the engine up and slid it out on its oil pan.

This is a good time to rebuild your engine or repower since it's out. Also to repaint and work over the fuel, cooling and exhaust systems. I also replaced the tube on my stuffing box.

I had a local aluminum boat builder make a tank to my specs. The builder was a credible boat builder and properly tested it and put on requisite label plates. The cost was about what I would have paid for a pre-built tank and able I to increase capacity to 30 gal by making the front end lean forward.

I had planned to rebuild but am now repowering with a diesel. Fortunately I had the builder put in a boss for a return line which you need on a diesel. I regret not having him put in a hand hole for cleaning as well which is also desirable for diesel as the algae can grow in the water at the bottom of the tank. Think also about how you're going to hold the tank down and the fittings that you may need welded on or that. You may also want to think if you want a fitting for a fuel gage (I didn't want one). I'd recommend that if you're building a tank have the builder put in an internal baffle to minimize sloshing. This isn't critical but I think it's a good idea. The fuel suction tube should be some inches of the bottom so it doesn't pickup sludge.

Some things with aluminum tanks if you go that way. You need make sure that water doesn't get trapped against the aluminum. I found some design info on line on mounting aluminum tanks and followed that. I built a new platform for the tank to sit on, attached a number fore and aft wood strakes to minimize the surface area in contact with the tank then fiberglassed it to prevent water soaking into the wood which would have the surfaces be wet much o the time. Also it's important that the fittings that you screw into the tank are aluminum or a metal that won't give you dissimilar metal corrosion problems.

I reused my original Volvo wet exhaust muffler. Had I wanted to put in a new muffler like the Centek cylinder shaped ones I'd have a tight fit with my larger tank
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