1984 C30 hull construction - Page 2 - SailNet Community
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #11 of 15 Old 09-20-2007
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 58
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 10
I don't mean to be contrary or arguementative. I want good info distributed among the owners.
But the fact is the hull of C30 is over an inch thick of solid glass along the hull bottom and in the bilge areas. The cosmetic "cover" of glass over the wood is 1/4 or less and the amount called for recovering by Catalina is even less. The 4500# keel would never stay attached if there was only 1/4 under the bottom of the wood.

Since we both know the bolts do not stretch, then (IF) your bolts were "sinking", the only result would be that the lead keel was separated from the hull by an equal distance. And the bolt hole(s) had to be open to sea water which of course allowed water into the wood area.
Your keel was severely damaged somehow and the PO or surveyor should have noted this as a condition of sale.

As I said in the first email "Only the worst cases of grounding the keel would result in movement of the bolts causing any leaks.".
maxmunger is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
Sponsored Links
post #12 of 15 Old 01-03-2008
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 26
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
i had

i had to remove the plywood in my keel sump to. this was a very cheesy and bogus way to build a boat. look at most late 80's and 90's cats and you don't see the smile like you do on the plywood models. my wood was rotted and my keel bolts werre sinking in also and the fiberglass was to thin.
alaska67 is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #13 of 15 Old 01-10-2008
Senior Member
Maine Sail's Avatar
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Maine Coast
Posts: 6,028
Thanks: 20
Thanked 249 Times in 192 Posts
Rep Power: 16


Unfortunately I did not take any photos of my C-30 keel re-set but I can tell you with 100% certainty there was NO WHERE near 1" of solid glass in my keel stub.

Here are a few pictures of a Pearson 26 keel that snapped off so folks will get and understand why plywood should NOT be in a keel joint.

These pictures are NOT a C-30 but simply to show the construction technique. The fiberglass laminates on my C-30 were "slightly" more robust, but not a lot more, and certainly no where near an an inch! the bottom skin on my C-30 was roughly 3/8 of an inch thick if that...

If you have plywood in your keel stub I say replace it! Remember though what you paid for my advice..

The Boat:

The Layup:

The Sinking Keel Bolts:

The Bilge Side:

The Keel Side:

-Maine Sail / CS-36T

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Images In Posts Property of Compass Marine Inc.

Maine Sail is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #14 of 15 Old 02-06-2008
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Seaside, Florida
Posts: 3,336
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 10
I believe the C30s originally came with 135% foresails. My C30TR has a 110%, and that's usually enough. If and when I upgrade, I'll go to a 135%. I think a 150% might be a bit much.
sailhog is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #15 of 15 Old 02-07-2008
IC30/309 Association
Join Date: Jul 2000
Posts: 6
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
catalina yachts did not supply sails for the early boats and perhaps not until the later MK II model. certainly they do today. Most MK I and II owners purchased separate sails.

Sails depend on where you sail. Light air calls for 155 and full mains. medium needs a 135 and heavy areas can max out with 110s and flat mains. A 100 jib and main reefs is useful in vitrually all areas for the gusty spring and fall seasons. and of course there are light , med and heavy chutes to choose from.

BTW suggest you switch to catalina30@ yahoo.com for much more advice on C30.

Max Munger, IC30/309 Tech Editor
mxmunger is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook

Quick Reply

By choosing to post the reply above you agree to the rules you agreed to when joining Sailnet.
Click Here to view those rules.

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the SailNet Community forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
Please note: After entering 3 characters a list of Usernames already in use will appear and the list will disappear once a valid Username is entered.

User Name:
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:


Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
1983 Newport 27S-II Hull construction and Sonar Transducer Installation Stenn Newport 2 10-06-2007 04:38 PM
High Tech vs traditional-Comments? Pangaea General Discussion (sailing related) 38 08-07-2007 02:07 AM
Spring Hull Cleaning Tom Wood Gear and Maintenance Articles 0 04-05-2004 09:00 PM
Hull Construction Questions Dan Dickison Gear and Maintenance Articles 0 01-15-2001 08:00 PM
Hull Speed Demystified Steve Colgate Buying a Boat Articles 0 06-10-2000 09:00 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome