1984 C30 hull construction

GBurton · #1 08-27-2007

Is it cored? And the "catalina smile" I've been told is due to the keel bolts stretching?

Thanks for any info

maxmunger · #2 08-29-2007

Firsy of all, go to www.catalina30.com to learn all about the C30. And Join the association too!
Specifically, no the hull is not cored at all. Most all Catalinas are all solid glass.
Bolts do not stretch!
The "smile" is almost always due to improper blocking while ashore. The keel bottom actually tapers downward from front to rear and has quite a "rake" to it. Blocking must be as far forward as possible and a "nose" stand is desirable. However, the weight of the boat should never be on the stands.
The smile can occur either in front or back and is simply cosmetic. The overlaid glass and filler covering the joint can be broken by excessive flexing of the hull (accident or blocking). Most owners recover the joint when ad if it appears.

Only the worst cases of grounding the keel would result in movement of the bolts causing any leaks.

GBurton · #3 08-29-2007

Thanks - thats what I wanted to hear!

Another question, the boat I'm looking at has a 150% genoa and a main.

What did the boat come with for sails? Could someone make a jib recommendation...

Has anybody here had problems with the glassed in through hulls and gate valves? Does the 1984 boat have these?

So many questions!

Thanks for the help!

Gary

sailingfool · #4 08-29-2007

Get a 110% also.

maxmunger · #5 08-30-2007

You didn't say where you sail, cruise, race, off-shore, single hand, want furling?. All are important to sail choices.
Catalina did offer some sail choices at times, maybe not in 84, but yours are not necessarily factory anyway. main and 155 are fine in most locations. You may want a jib for windy conditions.

glassed in pipes and gate valves should be replaced. Have you checked the web site yet/ Best upgrades are listed under FAQs.

GBurton · #6 08-31-2007

Hi Max -

Well I made an offer and it was accepted.

Now trying to determine what needs done first.

The PO had a transport company move the boat to its present location - when they took the mast down they cut all the wires. He had not bothered to reconnect them as he only uses the boat in an estuary.

Also - the depth transducer is bad according to the PO. Any way to ohm it out (what should the readings be) Do I have to haul the boat to replace it?

The seacocks are some kind of plastic ball valve - grey in color. It has the original glassed in nipples for through hulls.

The boat will be used off the Oregon coast - 5 - 35 knot conditions, so will need a hank on jib for this.....could you make a recommendation?

Thanks for your help

maxmunger · #7 09-01-2007

The coast of Oregon is pretty rough. best you survey every system and make then right including the lights! Why cut wires when there was a connector?

Are the "plastic" valves really black - Forespar Marelon are great valves - no maintenance.

But the pipes need replace with (Marelon) thru hulls, so you may as well replace the transducer while the boat is out of water.

Maine Sail · #8 09-18-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by maxmunger

Firsy of all, go to www.catalina30.com to learn all about the C30. And Join the association too!
Specifically, no the hull is not cored at all. Most all Catalinas are all solid glass.
Bolts do not stretch!
The "smile" is almost always due to improper blocking while ashore. The keel bottom actually tapers downward from front to rear and has quite a "rake" to it. Blocking must be as far forward as possible and a "nose" stand is desirable. However, the weight of the boat should never be on the stands.
The smile can occur either in front or back and is simply cosmetic. The overlaid glass and filler covering the joint can be broken by excessive flexing of the hull (accident or blocking). Most owners recover the joint when ad if it appears.

Only the worst cases of grounding the keel would result in movement of the bolts causing any leaks.

Max,

With all due respect improper blocking is not always the case. All Catalina 30's through 1987 had plywood laminated into the keel stub to save $$$, time and the expense of making the keel stub a solid block of fiberglass like it should be. Catalina was not the only manufacturer to cut corners like this Pearson and many, many others did this too. The problem is that when the plywood gets wet it begins to flex and separate from the two skins. The keel bolt washers also sink into bilge as the plywood rots giving the false sense that the bolts are stretching. The bolts are not stretching but the keel stub is compressing and giving you the Catalina smile.

I have been on the receiving end of the yard bill to remove the plywood and re-laminate the keel stub per Catalina's instructions. It's not a cheap job and involves removal of the motor on the 30. I will never ever buy a boat with plywood in the keel stub again! This was a very frugal and short sided attempt to save money but cost owners big time. My plywood was so rotted and keel bolts so corroded, from crevice corrosion, my boat yard was surprised I had not lost my keel! I'm sure I may have had I hit something.

Sorry but I have to disagree that the Catalina smile is a non issue because I've seen how thick the outer and inner skins are once the plywood was removed. Call Catalina they will send you the instructions on how to remove the plywood and the lamination schedule for rebuilding the keel stub!!

maxmunger · #9 09-19-2007

And with all due respect I can say as technical editor and owner for 26 years, no C30 has ever lost its keel by falling off. The wood was added back when boats were "overbuilt". yes the wood was a bad idea, but thousands of C30s are still out there with no bilge problems. it all depends on the PO care and maintenance and operation.
The bolts and washers do not sink into the bilge. They don;t even move! Only if the owner keeps tightening down the nuts, against all of our advice, will any depression form.
I see you have not perused the web site as yet. The Catalina "fix" is online there. We are well aware of it. If you look at the Catalina fix, it only calls for a couple layers of glass to reform and smooth the removed bilge area. It is NOT adding back any strength to the keel area.
The keel is 'glued" on at the factory and the keelbolts only align it during curing and movement around the shop. removing a keel usually involves a chain saw to cut the seam! The keel will not flex or bend due to loose keelbolts from the rotting wood.
The smile is caused by "banana-ing" the boat on shore by improper blocking.

Did you know the lead keel is also filled with bricks?

Maine Sail · #10 09-19-2007

Having seen the inside of the keel stub during the process I think I speak from experience. The bottom layer of glass was barely perhaps 3/8 thick and the bilge side covering the plywood not even a 1/4 inch. Trust me my keel bolts were sinking into the bilge as the plywood compressed..