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Bareboat Chartering BVI

14K views 44 replies 22 participants last post by  Chuteman 
#1 ·
My wife and I are looking to do some bareboating in the BVIs this winter and I was looking for some advice from anyone who has chartered there...ie: what company they used...what the experience was...any boogymen...any recommendations? It will be just the two of us and we would probably be looking for something around the 34 foot range
 
#2 ·
It is hard to go wrong in the BVI's but I think you will be better off in a bit larger boat...steady trade winds and seas outside of the drake channel feel a bit more comfortable with more displacement...but of course that is your choice. Nothing wrong with a 34' boat but these are light coastal cruisers. Bring plenty of money for mooring balls at $25-30 bucks a night. You can't anchor in most places any more due to the mooring balls.
The two big companies are Sunsail and Moorings (same ownership) are supplemented by Footloose charters which uses their older boats at a lower price. Good reports have been made on Conch charters as well. nothing to worry about with any of them...just book what you want and go have fun!
Here's an older thread on the same issue:
http://www.sailnet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21381
 
#4 ·
My 2 cents: The boat we chartered from the Moorings last Jan was great! It was 39' and was great for four people. It was not very well set up for short handed sailing, which didn't matter that time, but my wife and I are planning to get a smaller boat next time if it's just us 2. The overall experience was also great, have fun!
 
#5 ·
BVI Bareboating

I've chartered with Conch Charters twice ( 35' Benneteau and 40' Leopard Cat). Staff was very professional, friendly and helpful. Would recommend them to anyone who wants a carefree charter at a reasonable price. The 35' handled the Drake Channel and ocean legs with ease.
 
#6 ·
Chartering in the BVI

The previous posts mention the "big boys" who do an efficient job of turning lots and lots of charters over. For consistant high quality with more personalized attention you might try Tortola Marine Management at www.sailtmm.com. Two otehr suggestions for your trip. Start now looking at airfares. I have paid as little as $250 and over 700 for the same trip. Bargins are available. Secondly there is a Best Western Motel in the airport terminal in San Juan. Breaking up the trip down with an overnight stop in San Juan allows a morning arrival, and things just seem to go better.
 
#8 ·
Bareboating BVI

Still looking and doing some homework as we figure out our options. In doing research, I ran across a site "Ed Hamilton & Co." who are apparently brokers and will arrange the charter. I've never considered a broker before...has anyone used this company ? ...or any broker for that matter ? ...is there an advantage.
 
#9 · (Edited)
Yes, they are a broker & have an excellent reputation. The advantages are they know the marketplace/charter companies, become your advocate, answer all your questions objectively (have heard most before), will do the leg work when it comes to the boat choices & costs (tell them your budget) and it does not cost You any $$$.......they get a fee from charter co (like a travel agency). Maybe able to help with airfare choices too. They will also advise You on "best" choice based on your criteria.
 
#10 ·
Broker

A broker can be a huge amount of help and is a good tool to use. They are however not free and do cost you money. The normal brokerage fee is 20 percent of the price of the charter. If you deal directly with a charter company you can negotiate a bigger discount since they are not giving up 20 percent upfront. If you are a first time charterer use a broker. Just be aware nothing is free.
 
#12 ·
All the above advice is great. I have used Ed Hamilton with great results. I have also gone it alone with Morring and Sundsail and Conch.

Like others before me 34 feet is ok but can potentially be a rougher ride in the trades with 6 foot seas the norm in the Drake Channel late in the day. The extra HP in the engine from the larger boats also can be an advantage,

We have tried different boats as this was a test for us to see what our next boat may be. It actually eliminated every boat we were on. While we like the cruising amenities the charters provide such as the broad swim platforms aft and the huge galleys, it does not fit with the blue water sailing we intend to do inj the future.

If you can charter from St Vincint to Grenada the second time you charter. BVI is the best for your first time as the sails are mostly line of sight.

Dave
 
#14 ·
BVI Cruising Advice

We (two adults and children ages 10 and 15) just returned from Tortola after leasing a 32' Beneteau from the Moorings during the week of December 26 through January 2, 2008. Here are my impressions from a first-time, bareboat cruiser with minimal sailing experience.
1. The Moorings were overwhelmed. Although the boat was delivered clean and in good condition, the 9:00 a.m. cruising briefer never showed-up, so the briefing was conducted by the receptionist at 9:45 a.m. She did a good job, though, but it was essentially a PowerPoint presentation.
2. The provisioning for our boat was not delivered until about 11:30 a.m., even though ordered weeks ahead of time. Many items were missing. There was no QC exercised by the Moorings. They delivered and left it to us to check that everything was there. It took until about 1:00 p.m. until we received everything.
3. Our boat briefer rushed-through the boat operations. He, too, was over whelmed. The Moorings then sent someone else to go over the boat, and we soon learned that this was his first day. He insisted that the boat's GPS was not a GPS. That all it was only an electronic map. This took another walk back to the office to request a knowledgeable person.
4. We finally left the Moorings at 3:00 p.m. and raced for the Bight at Norman Island. With the winds at 22 knots coming straight down the channel, with only the genoa up and motoring at 2500 rpm, we made it there in 1.75 hours, which was just in time to get one of the three mooring balls left at 4:45 p.m.
5. Given that this is the busiest week down there for chartering and the high Christmas winds during the week, (we heard that the previous week was just great) it was always chancy trying to find a mooring. This added to the trip's anxiety when going from place to place. You had to arrive early, but this depended on the location, number of available moorings, and the day of the week . . . especially as we approached New Years.
6. While away from the Moorings, I needed an explanation as to how to properly reef the sails. I should add that the Christmas winds down there during that week were incredible. Just about everyday they were 20 to 25 knots and the waves anywhere from 5 to 7'. The surges at night howled! In any case, when I called the Moorings from Soper's Hole for customer service, I received voicemail. It took many calls to get through to someone. When I finally did, it took a real effort to understand the guy due to his thick native accent and fast-paced of speaking. He was knowledgeable and very helpful, though.
7. Given the high winds and waves, we spent a lot of time motoring about. I attempted to go from Little Harbor on Jost van Dyke to Trellis one morning, but had to turn around. The waves had to be at least 7', and the bow kept on plowing into the oncoming waves. The trip would have taken 6 hours or so given the head winds if I were to keep the engine at 1800 rpm.
8. When you are doing a lot of motoring about, cruising seems like nothing more than a rich man's campout. The 32' boat is the smallest I think the Moorings has, and we only saw a few of them out during the week. Given the winds, I would recommend nothing smaller than 37' for a family of 4.
9. Be aware that the taxi situation on the islands is very expensive. They charge by the person, and many cab drivers will request whatever they can get. Unfortunately, many of them have a lousy attitude, too. While moored at Little Harbor for two days, we spent about $100 per day in cab fare just trying to get to the beach at White Bay. One time, we took a cab driven by Foxy's son, who was rude, truculent, and impolite as if he was doing us a big favor.

In closing, I would definitely go back . . . we did manage to get in one good day of sailing (our last day) when the winds were more like 10 to 15 knots. And, it is a great place to sail. I would lease a larger boat from another outfit, possible Horizons at Nanny Key. We heard good things about them. Given my sailing abilities at this point, I would not take a chance with the Christmas winds again. I would go later in the spring or early summer.
 
#23 ·
We (two adults and children ages 10 and 15) just returned from Tortola after leasing a 32' Beneteau from the Moorings during the week of December 26 through January 2, 2008. Here are my impressions from a first-time, bareboat cruiser with minimal sailing experience.
1. The Moorings were overwhelmed. Although the boat was delivered clean and in good condition, the 9:00 a.m. cruising briefer never showed-up, so the briefing was conducted by the receptionist at 9:45 a.m. She did a good job, though, but it was essentially a PowerPoint presentation.
2. The provisioning for our boat was not delivered until about 11:30 a.m., even though ordered weeks ahead of time. Many items were missing. There was no QC exercised by the Moorings. They delivered and left it to us to check that everything was there. It took until about 1:00 p.m. until we received everything.
3. Our boat briefer rushed-through the boat operations. He, too, was over whelmed. The Moorings then sent someone else to go over the boat, and we soon learned that this was his first day. He insisted that the boat's GPS was not a GPS. That all it was only an electronic map. This took another walk back to the office to request a knowledgeable person.
4. We finally left the Moorings at 3:00 p.m. and raced for the Bight at Norman Island. With the winds at 22 knots coming straight down the channel, with only the genoa up and motoring at 2500 rpm, we made it there in 1.75 hours, which was just in time to get one of the three mooring balls left at 4:45 p.m.
5. Given that this is the busiest week down there for chartering and the high Christmas winds during the week, (we heard that the previous week was just great) it was always chancy trying to find a mooring. This added to the trip's anxiety when going from place to place. You had to arrive early, but this depended on the location, number of available moorings, and the day of the week . . . especially as we approached New Years.
6. While away from the Moorings, I needed an explanation as to how to properly reef the sails. I should add that the Christmas winds down there during that week were incredible. Just about everyday they were 20 to 25 knots and the waves anywhere from 5 to 7'. The surges at night howled! In any case, when I called the Moorings from Soper's Hole for customer service, I received voicemail. It took many calls to get through to someone. When I finally did, it took a real effort to understand the guy due to his thick native accent and fast-paced of speaking. He was knowledgeable and very helpful, though.
...
Thanks for sharing your experience but let me get this straight, you go to one of the largest charter outfits in one of the busiest charter destinations, during the absolute busiest week they have, there was chaos, confusion, lost provisions, missing employees, and you're surprised? You weren't really, were you? (and you do realize that getting any mooring in the Bight at 4:45 any day that month qualifies as a Christmas miracle?!)

BTW given the conditions, the fact that you left the dock WITHOUT UNDERSTANDING THE REEFING SYSTEM makes you a bit of a fool (sorry for the ad hominem, but think about that one will ya'?)

Sorry if this seems harsh. My first experience with the Moorings in the BVI (Jan 07) was great, but then I had done some research (here at sailnet and elsewhere) and knew I was walking into a bit of a hornet's nest.

(Also agree about the Cooper's Island moorings being rolly, but one of the prettier spots nonetheless)
 
#15 ·
Hmm... 5-7' seas with 20-25 knots of wind... sounds about perfect sailing weather to me... I go out in those conditions all the time.
 
#16 ·
The charter companies always recommend going upwind in the channel, and then doing the downwin Trellis Bay/Marina Cay to Jost run on the north side of the island :) Perhaps that was one of the things glossed over during the briefing at Moorings. I spoke with a couple of people from Sunsail who have been amalgamated into the Moorings operation in Road town and it seems that it has now become too large and unwieldy. I hope you didn't try to take a mooring off Cooper's Island - that place rocks and rolls even in a dead calm.
I'm looking forward to going back this coming weekend!
 
#17 ·
I've been there 4 times, May, July, October, November (4 different years); I've never seen a week with 20kts+ the entire week.
3 of mine were bareboat, the last was fully crewed. Of the bareboats the first 2 with Sunsail, third with Voyage; all catamarans so I can't help ya with boat selection. We did provision thru Sunsail the first time, and had the same missing stuff, substitution problem. Found out they use a local grocer (Bobbies, available online) so from then on just went to the grocer direct.
As to cab's, wouldn't know. I was on a boat - if I wanted to go somewhere I sailed there.
Moorings do indeed fill up early, planning where you are going and getting there are part of the fun to me. Besides, I don't drink unless tied to something so the earlier I caught a ball....

As to briefing's - they expect you to be knowledgeable about sailing/boat systems in general so the briefings are somewhat brief; if you feel the need for more perhaps you should hire a skipper for the first day, it runs about 150 bucks and depending on your resume they might require one.
 
#19 ·
Sail BVI Charter

We just got back from a charter Dec 8-16th. The place is typicaly empty between Thanksgiving and the week before Xmas when the rates go up. To me, this is the best time to go. For example, only 6 boats at Anagoda, 5 boats at Foxy's anchorage. Lot of empty mooring balls, no problem at the Baths either.

If you fly into St Tom, you can taxi to Redhook, and catch the ferry over to Tortolla.
Highly suggest you do your own provisioning in Road Harbor, Tortolla, - groceries are right near boats, and it's pretty easy.

I would worry about the size of the boat handling the seas, while bigger is better, it's more dependant on the skill or the operator. I think my wife would agree with that too.
 
#20 ·
Roxbury my wife and I really enjoy the spring and early summer (before hurricane season) sailing in the VI. The winds and seas are calmer and there are open mooring balls all over. You might consider it as an option, plus I understand the charters are cheaper then also.

Zanshin, I live on St Thomas and have never been to a charter briefing, generally the local winds are south-southeast except in the winter when they shift to NE. It does make more sense to circumnavigate Tortola clockwise with existing conditions.

Below is generally the same forecast that reflects the previous two weeks. This year's conditions are very simliar last holiday season, the Christmas Winds are aptly named.

There is a race scheduled for this Sunday, it should be interesting.

COASTAL WATERS FORECAST
NATIONAL WEATHER SERVICE SAN JUAN PR
1036 AM AST THU JAN 3 2008

PUERTO RICO AND U.S. VIRGIN ISLANDS WATERS

AMZ700-032230-
SYNOPSIS FOR PUERTO RICO AND THE U.S. VIRGIN ISLANDS WATERS
1036 AM AST THU JAN 3 2008

.SYNOPSIS...WEAK HIGH PRESSURE WILL PERSIST ACROSS THE REGION
TODAY. A 1045 MB HIGH ACROSS THE EAST CENTRAL U.S. WILL SLIDE
EASTWARD THROUGH THE WEEKEND AND GRADUALLY WEAKEN OVER THE WEST
CENTRAL ATLANTIC...WHILE FORCING A COLD FRONT...CURRENTLY OVER THE
CENTRAL BAHAMAS...SOUTHEASTWARD INTO THE NORTH COAST OF HISPANIOLA
AND STRETCHING ACROSS THE CENTRAL ATLANTIC. THIS STRONG HIGH
PRESSURE WILL PRODUCE INCREASING WINDS LOCALLY FROM LATE TONIGHT
THROUGH SATURDAY...AND DRAMATICALLY INCREASING SEAS IN A
COMBINATION OF LARGE MERGING NORTHWEST AND NORTHEAST SWELLS.
HAZARDOUS MARINE CONDITIONS ARE EXPECTED TO CONTINUE THROUGH
MONDAY.



AMZ730-032230-
/O.ROU.TJSJ.MA.F.0000.000000T0000Z-000000T0000Z/
CARIB WATERS FROM PUNTA VIENTO TO CABO SAN JUAN S TO 17N AND E TO
64W INCLUDING THE CARIB WATERS OF CULEBRA VIEQUES AND THE U.S.
VIRGIN ISLANDS-
1036 AM AST THU JAN 3 2008

.THIS AFTERNOON...NORTHEAST WINDS 10 TO 15 KNOTS. SEAS 3 TO 5 FEET.
ISOLATED SHOWERS.
.TONIGHT...NORTHEAST WINDS 14 TO 19 KNOTS. SEAS 3 TO 5 FEET.
ISOLATED SHOWERS.
.FRIDAY...EAST NORTHEAST WINDS 15 TO 20 KNOTS. SEAS BUILDING 6 TO
8 FEET IN NORTHEAST SWELLS...WITH NORTHWEST SWELLS IN THE
PASSAGES. SCATTERED SHOWERS.
.FRIDAY NIGHT...EAST NORTHEAST WINDS 18 TO 22 KNOTS. SEAS 7 TO
11 FEET IN EAST NORTHEAST SWELLS...AND MERGING LARGE NORTHWEST
SWELLS IN THE PASSAGES. SCATTERED SHOWERS.
.SATURDAY...EAST WINDS 16 TO 21 KNOTS. SEAS 8 TO 12 FEET IN EAST
NORTHEAST AND NORTH NORTHWEST SWELLS. SCATTERED SHOWERS.
.SATURDAY NIGHT...EAST NORTHEAST WINDS 17 TO 21 KNOTS. SEAS 8 TO
12 FEET IN EAST NORTHEAST AND NORTH NORTHWEST SWELLS. SCATTERED
SHOWERS.
.SUNDAY...EAST NORTHEAST WINDS 16 TO 21 KNOTS. SEAS 6 TO 9 FEET
IN EAST NORTHEAST SWELLS. SCATTERED SHOWERS.
.MONDAY...NORTHEAST WINDS 16 TO 21 KNOTS. SEAS 5 TO 8 FEET IN
EAST NORTHEAST SWELLS. SCATTERED SHOWERS.
 
#22 ·
Chartering in the BVI's

My girl friend and I chartered a 34' Benetau (sp?) from Footloose. Here is a summary of our experience:

What a wonderful place to visit and charter. Fantastic. Many great islands and harbors to visit. Great sailing...!!!

Footloose is an offshoot of The Moorings chartering comp. The older Moorings boats are repainted with a yellow stripe and become part of the Footloose fleet. The boats are used and little worn but also the price is less.

The boat was fine with two exceptions:
1. Barnacles. The bottom was entirely, and I mean every square inch of bottom, including keel and rudder were covered in barnacles. Greatly decreased the sailing ability of the boat.
2. The fresh water holding tank was cracked and we quickly were out of fresh water. (Not good when the Lady is in the shower with shampoo in her hair and yells out "There's no water!!!")

We left Road Town headed south for Peter Island and Norman Island. Great places but also very popular. Headed to the west to Sopers Hole, a great little town and the only marina on the west side with docks, fuel, WATER and facilities, groceries, provisions. Up the west side to Cane Garden Bay. The Lady liked the beach there so much we stayed two days.

The mooring balls in all the harbors are a great convenience ,so there is little to worry about anchoring. We were there in August, last minute plans, so the anchorages were not crowded. I hear it can be very crowded in season.

Thanks for letting me relive the trip. That's just a small portion. Great place and I would highly recommend it.

Good winds, safe sailing :)
 
#26 ·
Roxbury - that is an odd recommendation, since they prefer their boats (and charter guests) to not take a pounding. Just last month I went from Great Harbour to Trellis and about two miles upwind of Sandy Cay, while pounding and slamming upwind against those swells but still doing hull speed (8 knots). The forces snapped the [slightly chafed] painter to my dinghy and it took me while to get the sails down and fire up the diesel in order to retrieve it [I'm alone on the boat]. By the time I had caught up to the dinghy it was pretty close to the reefs and I almost gave up trying to snag it - I ended up getting upwind of it, reversing until I was close and then putting the engine in neutral while trying to pull the heavy dinghy onto the sugar scoop and putting an old halyard line onto it.

p.s. If you grab a non-airconditioned mini-bus cab, the public kind with lots of advertising on the side, you can get a non-tourist rate of a couple of bucks to most destination. Or negotiate the price before getting in - I've gotten $5 rides from Nanny Cay to Hodges Creek that way. The only place that doesn't work is for airport runs.
 
#27 ·
We thought it was odd, too, since all of our research indicated that most people travel the island loop counter-clockwise. But, this was we were told told during the briefing and on a printed handout that was provided (if I can locate it, I'll send you a copy). However, I spoke to a couple Moorings' captains, who told me that this was fine, if the winds were coming straight down the channel, which they were.

When following the recommended clockwise route, we, too, left Little Harbor to Trellis, but I turned around to head to Sopers Hole. The winds may have have been fine for well-accomplished sailors, but were too heavy for me. The waves had to be around 7' feet, and the bow on the 32.2 kept on plowing and dipping into the oncoming waves.
 
#28 ·
Roxbury--It sounds like you made the smart choice for your comfort and conditions.

Since reading the "recommended" routes I asked a few local sailors' opinions of going CCW vs. CW and most said "depends on the wind" and that it would seem odd to have a "preferred route" unless that "preference" was based on predicted winds during the charter period. One thought was that as people leaving Moorings or Nanny Cay may not be fully familiar with their vessels yet, they have more options on the south side of Tortola to "pull in" then on the the north side especially if things are not going well. Support from the charter companies can also get to the customer much quicker and stay in radio contact on the south side when there are problems.

One thing that recurs frequently on the radio is calls for missing dinghys. These aren't stolen but have come loose from charter boats while underway. To all that charter "make sure you dingy is attached and still behind you"!!!! My wife and I have picked up a couple of lost dinghys in Drakes Passge and over between Trellis Bay and Guana Island. One was recovered by the embarassed and intoxicated couple shorty after. The other was picked up the next morning on JVD from a Sunsail Rep.
 
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