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  #11  
Old 01-28-2009
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dude's looking for shoe, should have answer by next monday. can you send pics of lazerette and companionway hatches when you are finished? if i see what i have to do, i can usually do it..........
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  #12  
Old 01-28-2009
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Yeah I will. I'm almost done with the forward hatch so that will be the first pic.
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  #13  
Old 02-01-2009
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hey tbeagley, take a look at this and see if it will suit your needs. think it came from a challenger. looks just like mine.......
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new rudder on a columbia 24?-shoe1.jpg   new rudder on a columbia 24?-shoe2.jpg  
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  #14  
Old 02-01-2009
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Thats it! Now the question is how can I get my hands on it and how much will it cost? I finished the forward hatch, take a look.new rudder on a columbia 24?-tads.domed.hatch.cover%5B1%5D.jpg

new rudder on a columbia 24?-tads.domed.hatch.cover3%5B1%5D.jpg
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Old 02-01-2009
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This is the hatch that was on the boat when I rescued her. You don't have to go with the curved top if you wanted to keep it simple. But If you wanted to go the route I went this is how I did it: After measuring the opening that the hatch was going to sit on, then I determined how high I wanted the hatch and how much of a curve, I tried to make the curve to complement the curve of the cabin. I made a rough cut a few inches longer than I needed for two pieces of half inch marine grade plywood. I found the center and measured off the bottom 2 3/4 and and 1 1/2 on both sides. Then i drove a nail at the high center point and bent a flexible strip of wood to each end and traced the curve. I cut the curve with a jig-saw (both at the same time) and used a belt sander to smooth the curve. Then measuring from the center to both ends I cut them the right length and screwed the two 1 1/2 side pieces on. Next I squared it and screwed on the top piece of 1/2 plywood on top. Then I measured the length of the curve (only a strong 16th of an inch longer) and cut the sides on a table saw on a 5 degree bevel. I glued and clamped the 1/4 inch oak plywood on top, traced out the 3/4 oak for the sides and mitered them together ( I had to take some scrap pieces and try out the angles to get them right) I used a brad gun to attach them, then counter-sunk screws and used plugs so you cant see them. The 3/4 oak is an inch lower so it covers the raised lip of the opening. I mostly pleased how it came out. Now I have the rear and companionway to do. This is a pic of the hatch that was there.new rudder on a columbia 24?-tads.sailboat.11%5B1%5D.jpg
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  #16  
Old 02-02-2009
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thatzanice! you have patience that outmatches mine, and also must own better woodworking equipment. ya know, you could make some good side dough making them for other boat owners. that's how i pay my slip rent and upkeep on my boat, by doing mechanical and electrical side jobs. anyways, if you want, call me @678-477-1462 (cell) between 800 am and 700 pm or 770-893-2341 (home) between 400 and 700 pm and we'll work out specifics. how about 20 bucks, and you pay s&h?. couldn't be much ups ground or even usps. gimme a yell..........
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Old 02-07-2009
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Just a thought, I am going to have an extra companionway hatch when I'm done with my new one. Its fiberglass and not in bad shape. Also, I'm looking for a portside window (the big long one) if anyone knows of one.
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Old 02-14-2009
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hey tad, sorry for the delay, i've been caught up in life as usual. i'm gonna ship that thing today via ups. i'll email you with a tracking number.............
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Old 02-22-2009
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I got it yesterday. Fits great! sent my check out on tuesday. Thanks again scott.
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Old 07-11-2009
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I am a contender 24 owner which translates to a contender "restorer" and also have a need for a rudder cup or gudgeon cup if anyone knows where to find another one? Also is there some method for sealing around motor&venting when mounted in the lazarette? Has anyone had any luck in replacing long style cabin windows? I am inspired by photos of everyones obviously hard work...makes it seem alittle more worth it now!
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