This article was originally published in March 2001 on SailNet.
There was water in the bilge, but not that much. Had the pump been staying ahead of the leak, and I just happened to arrive at the boat just as the battery died? Or did the battery die for some other reason, and the pump had just been waiting for juice to pump out a week’s worth of drips from the stuffing box? While my brain tried to fit all the pieces together, it suddenly dawned on me that the water level was not receding.
Cutting to the chase, what I discovered was that the shaft that connects the pump motor and the impeller had broken. When the water level rose high enough to activate the float switch, on came the pump. But since it wasn’t actually pumping, it just continued to run until it drained the battery.
The normal response, I think, is to pull the old pump, take it to the nearest marine supply store, and buy an identical replacement. Or, if the original one seems to have failed due to low quality, maybe buy a different brand, similar in size and capacity. Back at the boat, in goes the new pump, the dead battery gets a charge, and it is on to other things.
The problem, for me, is that this was a relatively expensive pump, and I doubted that it had run all total more than a couple of hours—not including the time it ran after the shaft broke. When I opened it, the cause of the failure was obvious. The shaft had suffered catastrophic corrosion. Water marks on the housing were testimony that the shaft had spent its entire life half-submerged. That there was always water in the bilge had long troubled me because it can find its way into the laminate. However, it had always seemed prudent to equip my boat with the largest pump that would fit the narrow sump. That was one rated at 2,000 gallons per hour. The outlet port measured 1 1/8 inches, and a hose run of nearly 10 feet was necessary to reach the discharge fitting at the stern. Whenever the pump shuts off, the column of water in this hose drains back into the bilge. I did the math, and it worked out to be more than a half gallon—enough to submerge the pump up to the shaft.
I could reduce the size of the discharge line to reduce the amount of water that would drain back, but that was even more self-defeating because it would severely reduce the bilge pump’s capability. The ability to deal with flooding had to take precedence over keeping the bilge dry. Didn’t it?
This was a problem with no solution—until I recognized that it is really two problems. I needed a bilge pump that would leave the bilge nearly dry, and I needed a bilge pump that would handle serious flooding. Who says they have to be the same pump?
I bought the smallest automatic pump I could find—500 gph model—and installed it in the lowest part of the bilge. A pump this size has a 3/4-inch outlet, but since I wasn’t concerned about the capacity of this pump, I used a reducer to connect it to 1/2-inch discharge hose. Ten feet of 1/2-inch hose will hold less than a pint of water.
|"I need a bilge pump to keep the sump dry and one to handle serious flooding—but who says they have to be the same pump?"|
Next, I glassed in a plywood bridge several inches above the deepest part of the bilge. This would be the mounting location for my new high-capacity pump. Because the bilge is wider at this bridge, I was able to install a pump with twice the capacity of the one that failed. I dispensed with the float switch for this pump, wiring it instead to a clearly labeled switch in the main saloon.
Shouldn't the high-capacity pump also have a float switch you might ask? When I am aboard it clearly does not matter, but let's consider what happens if a hose fails while the boat is unattended. An inch-and-a-half hole six inches below the waterline will admit water at the rate of about 1,900 gallons per hour. The 500 gph automatic pump will have little effect in this situation, and my 30-foot boat will sink in less than six hours.
Connect the high-capacity pump to a float switch and maybe it can keep up with the leak—but for how long? The pump draws 15 amps. It will drain a full group-27 battery in six hours. Then the boat begins to fill.
For an unattended boat, an even better configuration is to put the high-capacity pump on a float switch but also wire the switch to an outside alarm horn to make sure the trouble does get someone's attention. Combine that with a plaque mounted next to the companionway hatch providing more than one emergency telephone number, and you give yourself an excellent chance of dealing with the unthinkable without sustaining any serious damage.
These days my bilge stays bone-dry, and my expensive, high-capacity pump sits high and dry, unlikely to ever need replacing. Two pumps optimized for differing objectives is such a clearly superior approach that I am still shaking my head at how obvious this should have been. Maybe reinventing the wheel every now and then isn’t such a bad idea.
Bilge Pumps, the First and Last Lines of Defense by Tom Wood
Battery Charging by Don Casey
Sinking at the Dock by Mark Matthews
SailNet Store Section: Bilge Pumps and Accessories
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