Proper ground tackle for long island sound and new england - Page 5

Cruisingdad · #41 (**permalink**) 05-02-2007

Just one quick comment on setting an anchor: You better get good at it and learn to feel it without diving it. Diving it is fine in clear, warm water. However, much of your cruising will be in mangroves or brackish water that will not allow you to dive your anchor. A trick we use is to back down hard (after we have set it) and hold the chain. It takes a little getting used to, but you can feel it bite or drag. Takes practice, but worth it.

- CD

jasonr575 · #42 (**permalink**) 05-02-2007

Newport, the chain is to make for a heavier anchor roe which will sag more and pull the anchor horizontal. Do i have it?

jasonr575 · #43 (**permalink**) 05-02-2007

i have a 50 hp perkins on the boat, i would imagine that would help set and anchor fairly well or pull it out if it is not set right.
What is a next generation anchor? is it just referring to new models?

sailingdog · #44 (**permalink**) 05-03-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cruisingdad

Just one quick comment on setting an anchor: You better get good at it and learn to feel it without diving it. Diving it is fine in clear, warm water. However, much of your cruising will be in mangroves or brackish water that will not allow you to dive your anchor. A trick we use is to back down hard (after we have set it) and hold the chain. It takes a little getting used to, but you can feel it bite or drag. Takes practice, but worth it.

- CD

Or in the case of the Acushnet River, a superfund site, laden with PCBs that you wouldn't want to go diving in...

Jason-

The next generation anchors are the newer designs that include the Rocna, Spade, Manson Supreme, Buegel, Bulwagga and XYZ anchors... most of which are far more resistant to moving through the seabed than the more traditional designs.

The chain is to make the rode heavier and force it to hang in a catenary curve, so that the pull against the anchor is almost horizontal, rather than upwards. It is also good to have chain since it is much less susceptible to chafing—which is particularly important in rocky or coral-laden areas.

jasonr575 · #45 (**permalink**) 05-03-2007

have been reading about the xyz anchors, seems impressive if true. Anybody have any experience with these, do they reset themselves when the wind shifts?

Craig Smith · #46 (**permalink**) 05-03-2007

The claims on their website are slightly, ahem, exaggerated. The XYZ was tested in those tests above... West Marine found "Could not get anchor to work. One pull at 900lb, but mostly dragged on the bottom."
But no experience for my part.

jasonr575 · #47 (**permalink**) 05-03-2007

Ok i am starting to pinpoint what i need. What is an anchor that is good in most conditions or at least in the conditions around long island sound up to boston that will reset itself if it breaks free from wind shifts. My goal is to be able to leave the boat withought worring about it or be able to sleep at night in ease. i will be alone for some of the time. Resetting the anchor in the middle of the night alone without a windless is my concern and i dont what to have to worry about it.

Craig Smith · #48 (**permalink**) 05-03-2007

WASI, Spade, Bulwagga, Rocna. Research those. You will be okay with one of them.

Cruisingdad · #49 (**permalink**) 05-03-2007

Craig,

What is the cost of one of your anchors for a 22-24k boat (40-42 feet)?

c2cSailor · #50 (**permalink**) 05-03-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by jasonr575

Ok this is some good information. The weight is good but my anchor style is bad for the area, is what i am getting from this. Well may be the best course of action is to discuss bottem types in these areas. Anybody familiar with the areas i have mentioned before and their bottems? Then we can pick the best anchor for the combination of areas.

I just finished moving my boat up from CT to Boston this past weekend. I'll tell you that Cuttyhunk normally has several moorings in the pond, but as of April 29th, the winter sticks were still in. I'm on a 27' sailboat with a fortress knock off brand called Viking with a working load of 2,000 lbs. If you compare that to Fortress FX charts, that's comparable to the FX23 which is 3 sizes larger than necessary for general anchoring. This anchor came with the boat.

The point I want to make is that with the eel grass in Cuttyhunk, no anchor works well and I dragged twice before it finally set. I'm assuming I must have found a bare patch of mud.

To be totally unbiased, weighting the opinion of somone in the anchor selling business might not give the whole picture as compared to those of us who actually own boats and sail in the area you are referring to. I agree with 500' rode is overkill, but I wouldn't cut it either if it was in good shape. More power to you. I would consider cutting it if you don't have a secondary rode of at least 150'. I anchor in 10-20' water with a 4' draft.

Sleeping or leaving the boat unattended I wouldn't use less than 7:1 scope (that includes waterline to your bow roller factored in). Having at least 2 different anchor types is beneficial, and if cruising, the largest anchor you can physically handle or winch up with the windlass. Anchors are like tires- you have so much riding on them. How much are you willing to risk?