Leaving La Paz after refueling and reprovisioning, first stop was Balandras bay, a small anchorage which is surrounded by sandy shoals, just outside La Paz, and a good stopping point after negotiating the zig zag entry to that harbor.
The next morning, sail was set to San Francisco Island, 40 some miles away. Nothing too spectacular about the island although the fish hook shaped anchorage made for a comfortable stopover. This is the limit for excursion boats from La Paz, so the anchorage was rattled to rock music until 2am. San Jose Island another 30 miles was completely different. Pulling into deep water aside the sandy shoals and south of the estuary which crosses the island, Several days were spent gathering clams, and walking the beaches. Two large conch were found which made delicious ceviche. The only problem was bugs. Jejenes (no see-ums) ate me alive. I counted 90 bites on one leg below the knee. The "OFF" apparently is made for US bugs.
Bahia Evaisto brought me back into some type of civilization, population about 50, no running water, no electricity, but there was a small collective "aborrote" where some supplies could be bought. Didn't need anyway, but after talking with the owner, bought something anyway.
Bahia Agua Verde epitomized my real enjoyment of cruising. Anchored in front of the "Agua Verde Yacht Club", an abandoned square concrete hut cruisers use for get togethers, as the sun went down, I saw 4 fishermen sitting outside their hut passing the evening. In need of some company, I uncorked a bottle of wine, grabbed 5 glasses and went ashore. I was surprised the fishermen, Jesus, Arturo, Jose, and Jose, didn't drink, but the conversation carried on for about 4 hours. I did find out that they liked to smoke cigars. I told them if they stop by the boat on their way out, I'd have some cigars for them.
These cigars are somewhat special. I bought them from the maker in Mazatlan. The guy who makes these things lives up in the rain forest about 100 miles east of Mazatlan, he likes his Tequila. After smoking a sample, I wondered why he wasn't wealthy. He told me he can't make enough of them put into distribution. The cigars could be put against anything from Cuba. He told me that he trains and manages his female workers (only virgins) to make the cigars, and each cigar is hand rolled on the thigh of the virgin, thus each cigar is different. His production problem is that he keeps running out of virgins. I bought a pack of 20.
The next morning after my night with the fishermen, being a bit hazy at 5 am, the 4 fishermen came by the boat, I remembered my promise of the cigars and went below to put the cigars and matches safely in a zip lock bag. Returning on deck, I was greeted by 4 two pound lobster tails laying on the side deck, appreciation for the cigars and the good converstation.
Following a side trip to Isla Carmen, I put into Bahia Escondido, or "hidden bay". Aptly named, the bay is entered through a narrow and shallow inlet which is completely hidden from view from the sea. A week went by without even noticing its passage.
Escondido is one of these places found along Baja, big ideas, big plans, but nothing happens, model condos are made on speculation, streets and sidewalks laid, and nothing happens. The concrete buildings are now abandoned, the sidewalks are being torn up, snakes and scorpions have taken over.
I asked another cruiser who used to be a builder, what happened to the plans and ideas. The reply was simple, a skilled construction worker makes 8 dollars a day, the houses are cement, full cost on the lot, material and labor probably around $15,000 on the high side. The asking price was $450,000, the builders completely overestimated the stupidity of foreign buyers. It would be cheaper to have a custom house made on your own lot, and it still wouldn't come up to over $60,000.
Bahia Ballandras, (not to be confused with Bahia Balandras) lies at the north end of Isla Carmen. A well protected anchorage, protected from the north, south and east. With the barometer dropping to 950 millibars, I knew some weather was coming so safely anchored in deep water with plenty of scope. About 2am (why always at 2am?) the wind hit 30 kts from the WEST, the unprotected opening. As the tide receded to low (a 12 to 30 ft tide is not that unusual in the upper Sea of Cortez), and the swells continued to build, I decided it was time to move out into deeper water. In the trough of the swells, sonar was reading 2 feet. Pulling in the chain with the windless I was hit by a large swell and the windless motor started spinning wildly without any affect on the chain gypsy. Windless was toast. Have you ever tried pulling in 150 ft of 5/16 inch chain with a 65 lb Bruce on the end. I guess it would have killed a normal man.
Crossing the sea again, this time to San Carlos, and now in Guaymas for windless repair. San Carlos was once a little fishing village that became popular with the ex-pats, American and Canadian. Now, luxury homes rise from the hills and the harbor is filled with multi million dollar sportfishers. The independent fisherman is now a maid, handyman, gardner, waiter, or sometimes deckhand on a millionaires yacht. I wonder if they're better off for it? Could they have stopped it even if they wanted?
Don't ask me the time of day, not even the day of the week, sometimes not even the month, I don't know. "Crusinheimers" has set in. Once the windless is repaired, it's off to Bahia Conception where I'll meet up with a few friends for the 4th of July beach party and clambake, bring clams, scallops and anything else you want. You're all invited.
Ian
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