Offshore in a 24' - SailNet Community
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post #1 of 39 Old 10-12-2009 Thread Starter
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Offshore in a 24'

I have decided that I want to sail my Islander Bahama 24 from Seattle to Hawaii. In 2 years. I plan to bring an old, blown out mainsail as a backup, and a newer main. As well as 3 headsails, Genoa and 2 jibs. What do you folks think should be on the list of improvements for the trip?

Currently the list is this:

Seal, reinforce, dog all hatches securely.

Design and install a better servo-pendulum vane.

New rudder bushings... (Currently I can simply lift my tiller, and my keel-hung rudder will lift out of the bushing at the bottom of the keel, any ideas on fixing this?)

Install, test, and stow an emergency rudder.

Spectra inner forestay and running backs so that if any one fitting fails, the stick stays up.

Extra stays and shrouds on hand.

Lots of trailing warps.

A sea Anchor.

Double up ports with clear exterior plastic.

EPIRB.

Spare Parts

Solar Panel

Extra Bulkheads???

Conversion of V-Berth to Storage? ?/

Anyway, if anyone who has done this before has any advice it would be greatly appreciated. I am not planning on buying a bigger boat in which to do this, either.
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post #2 of 39 Old 10-12-2009
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I think there is a classic work on upgrading to cruise, maybe by Richard Henderson?
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post #3 of 39 Old 10-24-2009
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Read "Trekka Around the World" by John Guzzwell. His first leg was Victoria to Hawaii. Trekka is now at the Victoria Maritime Museum. When I moved to Victoria in 1987 it was my first stop. Also John Neal's first book about cruising the Pacific in his first boat, a 27' Vega. He also sailed from the Pacific Northwest, but to San Francisco. There is an appendix in this book about outfitting a small boat for offshore sailing. I think if the boat is in good shape it's do-able. A small boat is in some ways easier to make ready for offshore than a large one in my opinion. As far as an emergency rudder, you also need a vane so get one that incorporates an emergency rudder. Make sure the companionway only opens down to seat height, not all the way to the cockpit sole. Make the cockpit smaller if possible by installing a storage locker at the forward end maybe to reduce its size. Put hinges and catches on all locker lids so if (when) you get knocked down the contents don't go flying around. To save trips forward rig a solent stay, a forestay just inside the forestay and parallel to it. You won't need runners as it attaches close to the masthead. Keep a storm jib on this stay and rig to raise from the cockpit. Rig a downhaul on your jib and lead this and halyards aft.
Brian
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post #4 of 39 Old 10-24-2009
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John Vigor has a book on seaworthy sailboats.
Amazon.com: Seaworthy Offshore Sailboat: A Guide to Essential Features, Handling, and Gear (0639785801757): John Vigor: Books

Last edited by MoonSailer; 10-24-2009 at 09:11 PM.
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post #5 of 39 Old 10-28-2009 Thread Starter
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Thanks mitiempo! That is some really good advice. I especially like the idea of storage lockers in the cockpit. Perhaps this would be a good place to keep sails. The cockpit on my boat is too large, and definitely needs another drain. I am sort of in limbo about outfitting this boat to go offshore, or selling it and buying something with standing headroom. I live aboard, so standing headroom would be a big plus.
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post #6 of 39 Old 10-28-2009
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Here's a picture of a cockpit that was reduced in size for offshore use. And the website it came from. This guy has sailed to 70 north in a Coribee and to the Azores and back (from UK). Well worth a look. But you don't need an inch of insulation to the whole hull and cabin if you go south!
Brian
Introduction to the junk-rigged Corribee Mingming
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post #7 of 39 Old 10-28-2009
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Positive flotation foam everywhere you can get it will help, also, larger scuppers in the cockpit in case you do get swamped. A well thought out ditch bag could go a long way if things go bad. I hope you never need it, but the piece of mind is invaluable.
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post #8 of 39 Old 10-28-2009
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It's generally not practical to put enough foam on board for positive flotation.
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post #9 of 39 Old 10-28-2009
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You should read a copy of Dove, see:
Amazon.com: Dove (9780060920470): Robin L. Graham: Books

Certified...in several regards...
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post #10 of 39 Old 12-07-2009 Thread Starter
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Ballast is encased lead 1700lbs and design displacement is 4200.
Without bothering to do a whole lot of specific gravity calculations, I am going to assume that there will be 3000lbs of downforce if the boat sank as it is today.

3000/64= ~46.88

46.88 cubic feet of foam is quite a bit.
It would be roughly the equivalent of filling the interior with foam up to the waterline. I think that it would be better to use watertight bulkheads. A watertight door at the main bulkhead, another at the aft end of the cabin, and another at the motor well would split the boat into 4 watertight sections.
Along with top-opening lockers above the waterline, this would buy some time in the event of a holing.

However, I have decided that something with standing headroom would be superior, so I am looking to buy something like a Cheoy Lee offshore 27, or a Haida 26 with standing headroom, or anything else in the 25'-27' range with 5'11" headroom. Until then, it is sailing around Puget sound.
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