Heat Help

[Tim R.]

The key to moisture control is ventilation and heat. Most upper cabinets are cracked to allow air flow.

The hoses that supply the glycol help keep the cabinets dry. If you opt for one of these type of systems, I would highly recommend extra hose to run the perimeter of the boat for this purpose and also allow for future fan units if needed.

We have added extra insulation to our hanging lockers where we store our clothing. We open those at least twice daily which lets in the moisture. We use Damprid in the less used cabinets. We also run a dehumidifier during the day at the slip. We also put insulation in the hatches which helps. The worst area for moisture is the hull side of our bunk. We keep a rolled up blanket against it and ventilate the mattress every weekend. We also have some fabric under the mattress that promotes air circulation.

[outbound]

May wish to look at Webasto as well. Good dry heat,hot water on demand, very low electric draw, efficient. Can do separate zones (living/sleeping areas) as well if you want.

[boatpoker]

Flagship Marine reverse cycle air conditioning and the heat side is 120volt electric furnace. Living aboard with this system in Toronto for six years. great product, great customer service

[johnnyquest37]

When I lived in British Columbia, we had a diesel stove for heat. Worked great, but I wouldn't recommend using it unless someone is on the boat.

[wingNwing]

Those reverse cycle systems cost $2K and up. Dockside, at your home marina, a space heater from the local hardware store is $50. Which would you rather put the wear and tear on (and ultimately have to replace?) We use one of those oil-filled guys that looks like an old-fashioned radiator - develops lower temp than a regular space heater, and therefore less problematic to leave. We also have a Webasto AirTop 2000 for when we're away from the dock.

[Mobnets]

I tried an oil-filled instead of a ceramic for the first time during my last weekend on the boat in mid-October. That, plus the 2, 12 Volt cabin fans on low speed to keep the air moving around gently is the best portable heat solution I've tried so far when the boat is in the slip and shorepower is available.

Mobnets
1973 Paceship Chance 32/28 "Westwind"

[chuck53]

Originally Posted by Minnewaska

Reverse cycle A/C doesn't work well below 60 deg water temps and virtually not at all below 50.

Not saying you are wrong, but why do my home heat pumps work well in the low 30's. Is there really a difference between water cooled vs. air cooled compressors? I mean 30 degrees is 30 degrees, air or water.

[wingNwing]

Chuck - the reverse cycle "sucks heat out of" the water that runs through it. Suppose it subtracts 10 degrees from the input water and then pumps the cooled water out. If the input water is 40 degrees, its going try to exhaust water at 30 degrees? It would freeze up and pump out ice cubes. Air doesn't go through that phase change; that's the difference. Although, our reverse cycle works down to somewhere in the low 40s, at decreasing efficiencies.

[Tim R.]

Originally Posted by chuck53

Not saying you are wrong, but why do my home heat pumps work well in the low 30's. Is there really a difference between water cooled vs. air cooled compressors? I mean 30 degrees is 30 degrees, air or water.

We call that an ice maker

[chuck53]

Wing, your explanation makes sense. I just had a real problem with the statement that they virtually won't work under 50 degrees.
While I've never checked water temp, I've been on my boat in late fall in some cold weather and my reverse cycle unit worked just fine putting out warmer air than my home heat pumps.