the water in your tanks

[sailingdog]

That was really dumb of him.... BTW, I did say 99%... your boat is in the 1%.

Originally Posted by primerate84

SD-The PO removed the hose that drains the sinks overboard and capped the throughhull. He then diverted the sink drains into the holding tank-why, I don't know. I discovered it when we needed to pump out frequently our first year. I plan on reconnecting the sinks to the throughhull this fall. In any case, I will be trying some additional methods next spring to really clean the water tanks.

Thanks for your comments, though.

[micksbuddy]

I was looking at a boat recently that appeared to have the sink drains plumbed to below-the-waterline thru hulls. Is that common, and is it a bad thing? I'm used to drains going to above-the-waterline thru hulls as SD mentioned. Just curious.

[sailingdog]

Not generally a good idea, since the hose becomes a siphon risk if the hose breaks loose at the sink bottom. You're really better off having the sink drain through-hulls above the water line by at least six inches. If they're closer to the waterline than six inches, they really need a seacock in them IMHO.

Originally Posted by micksbuddy

I was looking at a boat recently that appeared to have the sink drains plumbed to below-the-waterline thru hulls. Is that common, and is it a bad thing? I'm used to drains going to above-the-waterline thru hulls as SD mentioned. Just curious.

[sanjuan2R]

SD:
How do you do a bleach shock treatment to the water tank? I keep seeing it mentioned but have not heard how to perform it.

My water system was formerly fine last fall, but who knows when I set sail this summer.

Thanks.

Astoria
S/V Doodles
C&C 27

[sailingdog]

From another website, from the guru of the Marine Head... Peggy Hall.

Peggie Hall has the 8 ounce solution

Fresh water system problems--foul odor or taste--are typically caused by allowing water to stagnate in the tank and especially the lines, creating the ideal environment for molds, fungi and bacteria that thrive in damp dark places. Here's the recommended method for recommissioning fresh water systems; this should be done at least annually:

Fill the water tank with a solution of 1 cup (8 oz) of household bleach per 10 gallon tank capacity. Turn on every faucet on the boat (including a deck wash if you have one), and allow the water to run until what's coming out smells strongly of bleach. Turn off the faucets, but leave the system pressurized so the solution remains in the lines.


Let stand overnight-- at least 8 hours--but NO LONGER THAN 24 hours. Drain through every faucet on the boat (and if you haven't done this in a while, it's a good idea to remove any diffusion screens from the faucets, 'cuz what's likely to come out will clog them). Fill the tank again with fresh water only, drain again through every faucet on the boat, repeating till the water runs clean and smells and tastes clean.

Cleaning out the tank addresses only the least of the problem...most of the problem occurs in the lines, so it's very important to leave the system pressurized while the bleach solution is in the tank to keep the solution in the lines too.


People have expressed concern about using this method to recommission aluminum tanks. While bleach (chlorine) IS corrosive, the effect of an annual or semi-annual "shock treatment" is negligible compared to the cumulative effect of holding chlorinated city water in the tank for years. Nevertheless, it's a good idea to mix the total amount of bleach in a few gallons of water before putting it into either a stainless or aluminum tank.



To keep the water system cleaner longer, use your fresh water...keep water flowing through system. The molds, fungi, and bacteria only start to grow in hoses that aren't being used. Before filling the tank each time, always let the dock water run for at least 15 minutes first...the same critters that like the lines on your boat LOVE the dock supply line and your hose that sit in the warm sun, and you don't want to transfer water that's been sitting in the dock supply line to your boat's system. So let the water run long enough to flush out all the water that's been standing in them so that what goes into your boat is coming straight from the water main.


Finally, while the molds, fungi and bacteria in onboard water systems here in the US may not be pleasant, we're dealing only with aesthetics...water purity isn't an issue here--or in most developed nations...the water supply has already been purified (unless you're using well-water). However, when cruising out of the country, it's a good idea to
know what you're putting in your tanks...and if you're in any doubt, boil all water that's to be drunk or used to wash dishes, and/or treat each tankful to purify. It's even more important in these areas to let the water run before putting it in the tank--wash the boat, whatever it takes...'cuz any harmful bacteria will REALLY proliferate in water hoses left sitting on the dock.

As always, I'm glad to answer any questions.