All,
I've got a bit closer view of things, since:
a) I'm a US citizen;
b) I currently live on the hard in Havana; and
c) I live here legally and with full US Government approval.
I've got a few observations that may be of interest.
First, much of what has been said previously is demonstrably correct (from all quarters of the raging debate.)
As Peter mentioned, tourist money doesn't all go directly to the Cuban government. Years ago, Fidel relaxed a bit and allowed many Cuban families to run/operate restaurants (
paladares) out of their homes. Although these entrepreneurs in training are required to purchase food from the more expensive supermarkets (rather than using their food ration allowances) they do seem to turn a modest profit. This is just a single example of private enterprise being allowed to exist, albeit a rather small one.
On the other hand, virtually every large operation of any type is run by the government. Believe me, in spite of the sanctions they are not hurting for business. There are lots of tourists (and many well-off locals) who patronize these etablishments.
Second, any US citizen contemplating trying to "slip in under the
radar" and visiting here would best leave that for some future date. Not all relations between our two governments are icy (though most are.) There is a fair amount of positive cooperations in the law enforcement, weather, customs, and homeland security arenas. Although it doesn't make big splashes in the major US media, extraditions from Cuba to the US are taking place.
Third, although my wife and I considered it (and there was nothing that says we couldn't) we elected not to try and bring a vessel to Havana. Too many uncertainties over whether or not we'd be allowed to leave aboard our vessel when it was time for us to return home.
BTW: There's a decent Chinese restaurant at the Marina Hemingway -- it's a favorite of many expats who live in west Havana, and to get there you have to drive right along the quay where all of the foreign vessels are berthed. A US vessel stands out and will be noticed. I've had chats with many Canadian cruisers, but virtually every vessel that looks to be from the US has "No Pasar" quarantine seals on all
hatches/ports, with no crew to be found.
If anyone has specific questions about Marina Hemingway, I'd be glad to try and answer them -- shoot me a pm, and I'll take a whack at it.
PF