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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 07-03-2008
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Barkley Sound

My Dad and I took Plumper up the west coast of Vancouver Island this past week. We left Esquimalt on Tuesday morning and sailed up to Sooke, where we anchored for the night. We left Sooke at 0500, hoping for an easterly wind working with the long ebb tide to take us out as far as Cape Beale. Unfortunately, the wind was on the nose. We beat against the NW wind until the speed we needed to get to Cape Beale before dark was excessive, and then we flashed the iron genny for the rest of the day. We approached Cape Beale at about 2100 and the tide had changed. It was ebbing (out of Barkley Sound) and hitting the NW wind off the Cape and created a very confused and nasty chop. Plumper was rolling on her beam ends as we avoided the myriad shoals and entered Trevor Channel. We saw many Humpback wahles in that last hour or so before we anchored in Dodger Channel (dodging the swell).
After a good night's sleep in we set sail up Trevor Channel exploring the Sound. We dragged either a bucktail or a diver and flasher all day but had no luck catching fish. We pulled into the Port Alberni Yacht Club for the night. It is basically a fish camp that the thirty members welcome visitors at. There are no reciprocals because they need the moorage fees to keep the place running. It was worth the buck a foot mootage. They have created some wonderful hiking trails on their island with spectacular views. The shower there is the finest anywhere. One of the club members (a ceramic tiler) built it. The on-demand hot water is endless and the shower itself is huge. I pulled up a lawn chair and basked in the clean hot creek water being piped in. Best $2 I ever spent.
From the PAYC we sailed out looking for salmon but again had no luck. The sailing was fine with steady winds off the Pacific. We pulled into Effingham Bay for the night. There were three other boats there. One was flying the Red Duster and hailed from Southampton, England. On Effingham Island there was a rugged hike across to the other side of the island where an old native village used to exist. The hike was really fun, if a bit tortuous. The village is almost non-existant. There was a boat from Oregon there, and the guy came over and gave us a couple of Greenling for dinner. They were delicious.
The next morning we sailed out of Effingham and wandered over to Bamfield where we tied up for an hour or so at the grocery store. We stayed just long enough to buy some bread and beer and have an ice cream cone.
From there we went back to Dodger Channel to be in position for the run back down Juan de Fuca Strait the next day. We rowed ashore and watched three humpback whales in the small lagoon eating and frolicking. It was very cool.
We left Barkley Sound early the next morning and started sailing SE hoping to get to Sooke. Unfortunately we were again becalmed for a while. Eventually the winds piped up and were forecast to hit 35 so we decided to seek shelter in Port San Juan. The bay at Port San Juan is open to the SW with almost no shelter, and the wind was blowing about 25 and building from the SW when we got there. Fortunately, a fisherman in a boat called K-Roby let us tie up alongside him and we spent the night bouncing around at the dock secured to him. He was very friendly and we learned a lot about the black art of salmon fishing from him.
The next day was an all day flood and 20 knots of NW winds forecast. We left Port San Juan at 0820 and hoisted sail. It was a banner day in Plumper. We sailed all the way back to Esquimalt (about 72 miles) in 8 hours. The wind was cooperating as was the tide. We pulled into CFSA at 1620 (exactly) after a boisterous sail home.
It was a great week!
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Old 07-03-2008
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Thank you for your excellent report.

I have very fond memories of Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands. I've been there many times, including three summers in the mid 70s conducting leadership training for junior naval officers. I've spent a total of five months or so exploring the islands by boat, canoe and foot, but I haven't been back since 1983.

I'm planning a three-week sail up the west coast of Vancouver Island from late July to mid-August, and am very much looking forward to seeing the area again. Thank you again for refreshing my memories of this spectacular area.
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Old 07-03-2008
tomhuntdmd tomhuntdmd is offline
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Thanks for the nice report on Barkley. We plan on leaving Poulsbo, WA for Barkley on Aug. 6th and be gone for 2 1/2 weeks. Were you able to get any clams or crab?
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Old 07-03-2008
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We didn't bring traps and didn't try to find clams but others were having good luck.
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There is a tide in the affairs of men,
Which, taken at the flood, leads on to fortune;
Omitted, all the voyage of their life
Is bound in shallows and in miseries.
Shakespeare, Julius Caesar IV, iii, 217
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Old 07-03-2008
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Thanks for the report, Plumper... brought back good memories here also.

Agree that the PAYC facility is a great deal, a real nice setup that we don't mind helping to support. We too "enjoyed" the hike from Effingham to the village site, on one of the few sunny days we had.

We also spotted humps, just outside the PAYC in Trevor Channel, and greys in the distance on our way past Cape Beal in the early hours as we headed home.

We did a marathon Victoria -Bamfield, mostly chugging in a light westerly, and then hooked into a good westerly on the way home, going from Bamfield to Sidney Spit in another dawn to dusk passage.

A real interesting change from the inside waters, well worth the effort to get there, but of course you need to be prepared to give up some summer weather much of the time.

Thanks again
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Old 07-03-2008
jrd22 jrd22 is offline
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Plumper- it sounds like you had a great week with your Dad. We were up there several years ago with my father and had a fantastic trip. I think it must be about time to go back. Thanks for the report.

John
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Old 07-03-2008
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Nice trip report...thanks.
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