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CS 30 - basic info needed

16K views 22 replies 11 participants last post by  Dean McNeill 
#1 ·
Need to learn a few things about the CS 30:

Am I right that the hull is solid, NOT balsa cored anywhere?

Did the factory overbore and epoxy the drill-throughs where the deck hardware was mounted, or otherwise prevent water from getting into the balsa core at the deck gear locations?

Every model boat seems to have some "typical" trouble areas that will develop over the years. What typical problems should I be looking for when considering a purchase of a used CS 30? Which of those issues are in the have-to-fix category, and which should be considered deal-breakers?

Some folks say that the CS 30 was designed for the Great Lakes; but others say it is fine for coastal ocean cruising. Is there any reason why an coastal ocean sailor should stay away from the CS 30?

Finally: when the wind spikes, on my current boat I furl the jib, and sail on the mainsail alone -- reefing that only when the wind hits persistently more than 22 knots. The total "standard" sail plan on my boat is weighted: mainsail=57% and jib=43%. On the CS 30, the mainsail accounts for only 45% of the standard 462 SF sail plan. When the wind spikes, will the CS 30 handle well on mainsail alone; or what is the recommended response?
 
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#2 ·
Hull is solid, nor balsa core. Deck is balsa cored but solid along the perimeter where the toe rail bolts thru and the genoa track portions are solid. Note sure at the chain plates.
Cockpit drain hoses should be replaced or inspected.
Solid core AC wiring should be replaced.
The holding tank should be fitted with an internal extension tube that will allow complete emptying of the tank.
I dont like sailing with only one sail up. The 30 has a quite a bit of sail (with the 150 genoa), It feels too unbalanced to me on just one sail. I plan on purchasing a good used jib this winter to be better ready next year for those 25+ knt days.
 
#4 ·
Sailing with just the jib is a fine solution on boats with smaller mains. In addition to it being more convenient to simply unfurl the jib and go than to raise the main, on these boats the jib gives more drive than the main and may be necessary to retain good control. The only caveat is to anticipate and manage the resulting lee helm, in particular you need to ensure good momentum before going into a tack as it is easy to stall the boat. I never found jib-only sailing on my CS36T a problem, whereas the boat would only go downwind under main alone.

The CS 30 is a sweet racer-cruiser, fine for coastal use, but you might lookup the story the story of the crew that raced one half-way to Bermuda before they got off...

.
 
#7 ·
After 4,587 surveys (including 36, CS30's) I have concluded that although not without faults, the CS boats (in particular the 27, 36T and 30) are at the very top of the heap of production boats.

Paul Tennyson drew up a QC program and actually enforced it from day one of the plant opening. If you have surveyed one CS30, you have surveyed them all. Quite simply, by far the most consistent product of any builder.

Send me a PM with your email address and I will send you an actual survey of a typical CS30 (Private info redacted) later tonight. It may give you an idea of what to look for.

PS. I've never owned a CS and had no interest in the company.
 
#10 · (Edited)
After 4,587 surveys (including 36, CS30's) I have concluded that although not without faults, the CS boats (in particular the 27, 36T and 30) are at the very top of the heap of production boats...
While I fully agree with this comment, I do think for many readers we should make clear that these boats did not share the same design concept and objective. I believe Ray Wall designed the CS 36T to be a performance bluewater cruiser, and that fact shows in numerous elements of its design and construction. I believe Tony Castro designed the CS30 as a performance coastal cruiser, and the design shares nothing in common with the 36T, although your point is that they are similarly well built. A well equipped CS 36T makes a good offshore boat, other than a tendency to pound due to the flat centerline in front of the keel. The CS30, not at all, not to take anything from being as sweet a coastal boat as it is. The story of the crew who bailed off their CS30 during a Bermuda race tells the story on the design differences, and the fundamental importance of selecting a boat that is designed for how you plan to use it.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 
#8 ·
Need to learn a few things about the CS 30:

Some folks say that the CS 30 was designed for the Great Lakes; but others say it is fine for coastal ocean cruising. Is there any reason why an coastal ocean sailor should stay away from the CS 30?
No reason at all. It's sort of a Hobson's Choice, but I would rather endure a gale at sea than a gale on the Great Lakes.

YMMV.
 
#13 ·
I just read this article on the CS30 abandoned on the return from Bermuda. It is a bit disconcerting, for sure.

www(dot)soundingsonline.com/news/rented-epirb-brings-ocean-rescue-twice

I wonder if they had the baby stay in place to reduce mast pumping, or would it not have helped? Isn't there a better option than mast wedges?

In more general terms, how tender is the CS30, compared to say, a C&C 30 Mk1 (stiff), or a C&C 30 Mk2 (tender)? Not related to the above, just wondering.
 
#22 ·
As a proud owner for 5 years of a CS30 I will testify to the build quality, racing regularly after dialing in the needs of the Boat she is quite competitive. Should be reefed sooner than you would think, the Boat is easily sailed to hull speed. There's a "groove" that might be a bit hard to find at first but once found is easy to maintain. I did not buy for offshore work and frankly would have looked for something different, not because of the size just another design direction. Relatively tall rig, light(ish) displacement was my choice and I have no regrets at all. The recount of the offshore ditch proves the Boat can take more than the crew in almost every case and the hull problems would certainly be traced to a damage not properly repaired, there's just no design element of concern in the hull deck joint. The baby stay is there to stiffen up the mast column with inline stays but its a pretty tough stick, not bendy like the JBoats. Motoring in those conditions is tough on any Boat, I would have a third reef and a storm sail for those conditions but its a flat bottom to be pushing hard in the rough stuff.
 
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