SailNet Community

SailNet Community (
-   CS Yachts (
-   -   CS 36T Prop Shaft Removal (

serenespeed 11-13-2013 03:06 PM

CS 36T Prop Shaft Removal
I have a Westerbeke W33 with a Hurth HBW100v Vee Drive.

I would like to remove the prop shaft to replace the cutlass bearing, repack the stuffing box and replace the stuffing box hose.

I could swear I once read that it is possible to remove the prop shaft into the cabin. From what I can see of the transmission, that seems to make sense. The shaft coupling appears to mate with the transmission. Am I correct in assuming that I can remove the prop and anode, unbolt the shaft coupling from the transmission, notch the 'cabin sole' so the coupling has clearance and pull the prop shaft, including the coupling, into the cabin?
(The boat is on the hard for the winter :) )

If that sounds okay, I'd also like to clarify the following; upon reinstallation, do I need to worry about alignment? Will the transmission coupling and shaft coupling realign?

I did a lot of research before buying this boat, including researching the engine and transmission. I believe, during that research, I saw that the shaft could be pulled into the cabin and that upon reinstallation, I would need to use a feeler gauge to ensure correct alignment. I made the mistake of not bookmarking my research sources and cannot confirm my memories...

Thank you, in advance, for your help!

jimrafford 11-14-2013 06:31 PM

Re: CS 36T Prop Shaft Removal
I dropped the rudder on my previous 36t to remove the shaft. I would think you would have to remove the v drive for the shaft to come out into the cabin. Never attempted that way. I would think the shaft would get bent trying to get it under the v drive.

Faster 11-14-2013 07:53 PM

Re: CS 36T Prop Shaft Removal
If it's a typical Hurth V drive the shaft passes from the shaft log, under the engine and up through the Vdrive hollow coupling half,.. the shaft coupling half bolts to that.

The image above shows the shaft coming up and ending at the coupling half. No reason why a clean shaft wouldn't pull out in the direction of the arrow.. as long as zincs and prop are off.

I'd probably remove the coupling half to avoid mangling the liner/sole. You might run into a table??

Maybe easier than dropping the rudder.

jimrafford 11-17-2013 10:34 AM

Re: CS 36T Prop Shaft Removal
Guess it will depend on the vintage of your cs. Mine was a 79 and the coupler was on the back side of the v drive. The shaft didn't pass thru it. Was a real pia to work on.

Faster 11-17-2013 12:21 PM

Re: CS 36T Prop Shaft Removal

Originally Posted by jimrafford (Post 1129546)
Guess it will depend on the vintage of your cs. Mine was a 79 and the coupler was on the back side of the v drive. The shaft didn't pass thru it. Was a real pia to work on.

I bet it was! The boat we had with the Vdrive was an 82, it was as illustrated.

serenespeed 11-19-2013 09:54 AM

Re: CS 36T Prop Shaft Removal
I found the threads that I got my original information from:
post #15 shows the notch cut to allow the shaft and couple to clear into the cabin.

Post #9 has the (simplified) description of what I want to do.

I should have know it would be Mainesail who suplied information, with pictures, in an easy to read format :)

serenespeed 11-19-2013 09:57 AM

Re: CS 36T Prop Shaft Removal
The shaft removal was quite straight-forward.

The Gori prop threw me off for a bit. I was not expecting the nut to be inside the prop. I had to cut two tabs off of my gear puller so it would fit into the Gori prop, but after that it went well.

I also needed to cut two plumber's grub wrenches short, so I could undo the stuffing box nuts. But that worked out fine in the end and I now have proper tools for the job.

When I was researching the CS36T, I came across very few negatives, one was the engine access. I have to say - the CS is great to work on!

I have attached a picture of the notch I had to cut to get the shaft out. I saved the piece I cut out. I was able to separate the plywood block by hand and now it is just one layer of glass to make a cover for the notch. Once the shaft is reinstalled, I plan to make a very thick paste with West 410 and epoxy the piece back in. When I need to remove the shaft again, I should be able to cut the piece out with 5 minutes and a hacksaw.

I remembered where I read that I may need to align the shaft with a feeler gauge. It was in the Walter V-Drive service manual. I have a Hurth. But, I think the same will apply. I did see that there is a step in the prop shaft flange and that even when the bolts are snugged down, there is clearance between the the two flanges, which should allow me to check alignment.

Thanks again to all who read and contributed.

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:36 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
SEO by vBSEO 3.6.1
(c) LLC 2000-2012