Volvo Penta 2002 18 hp - turn key, Nothing!

[witzgall]

That looks like a good idea, I'll get one. Thanks!

So if the engine will start with the use of the key switch when the red wire from the ignition circuit is attached to the same terminal as the battery cable, but not when it is attached to the spade where it belongs, does that tell me anything specific?

Chris

Originally Posted by SteveInMD

Sorry - I was replying to the original thread.

Just get a remote start switch. This allows you to take power from the positive lead on the starter and send it to the S terminal on the solenoid.

There are many on the market. Here's one...

Amazon.com: Actron CP7853 Remote Starter Switch: Automotive

If you can do this and it fires right up you know that it's an ignition switch circuit problem. The remote start switch allows you to safely bypass the starting circuit.

[SteveInMD]

Make sure your batteries are well charged before trying to diagnose this. Low voltage will just make it more confusing and could be causing your starter problems.

You can fix this problem. Use a volt meter to see if you are getting power to the panel. It sounds like you are not. It's just a matter of tracing the red wire back to it's power source. You may have to remove the red wire from the engine harness bundle to figure it out. Work through it using the volt meter. I'd get the parts and service manuals for your motor as they will show you the circuits. If your panel isn't getting power I'm not surprised your alternator isn't charging. It has to be supplied with power to start it making power.

You can pull the heavy cable off the starter, then use your remote starter switch to test only the solenoid. You can bypass the S terminal to test only the stater (without engaging it) by using the switch to go directly from the B post to the starter input (but only run it for a second as the switch wont last long at that current flow rate).

[bilgediver]

Two things come to mind...Check the Volvo engine fuse contacts are tight and polished or try using one of the other fuses in the transparent fuse block if one is fitted. SOme of these 2000 series engines had a relay between the switchpanel and solenoid and it is possible you have one of these and it needs looking at. If there is not one of these then maybe the key switch itself is on the way out . If you have a manual it may help with a circuit diagram.

Manuals may be downloaded from here.
Sailing and Yachting Downloads Marine Engione Manuals

[witzgall]

I tried the different fuses, that did not work. I also suspected the relay, and even ordered a new one, but the wrong one was delivered, and I did not follow-up.

Can anyone explain what the relay does in the circuit?

Chris

Originally Posted by bilgediver

Two things come to mind...Check the Volvo engine fuse contacts are tight and polished or try using one of the other fuses in the transparent fuse block if one is fitted. SOme of these 2000 series engines had a relay between the switchpanel and solenoid and it is possible you have one of these and it needs looking at. If there is not one of these then maybe the key switch itself is on the way out . If you have a manual it may help with a circuit diagram.

Manuals may be downloaded from here.
Sailing and Yachting Downloads Marine Engione Manuals

[SteveInMD]

Do you have power to the fuse? Do you have power to the relay? It's much better to work off of facts than guess. Just be systematic and work through the circuit.

[bilgediver]

Originally Posted by dwayne908

Turned the key to start the above engine, alarm lights came on as usual, but when turned to start, nothing: no click like with a dead battery, no starting cranking, just nothing. Turned the key back to off, tried again, and it started right up.

I am away from home however I believe this engine sytem has a relay between the ignition switch and the starter mounted solenoid. If this relay is sticky it could cause the problems you describe.

The relay is fitted to protect the contacts in the starter switch so one alternative is to by pass the key start with suitable switch button that can handle the high currents in the solenoid. Take the by pass from the Volvo fuse block to the small terminal on the solenoid through the start button.

If you don t have a manual there are sites on the net where they can be downloaded.

http://www.bluemoment.com/manuals/vo...002_worksh.pdf

[mgiguere]

We have a Volvo 2002 and solved two major problems with it this year after 20 years of aggravation...It runs great now. First. Turning the key with not contact: the problem is in the ignition switch itself. We hooked up the old starter push button to the starter to bypass the key switch and that works fine. You still have to turn on the ignition before you push the button otherwise you may burn out the voltage regulator.

The Volvo use to be very hard to start...the problem was the starter. There are actually two starters recommended for the engine, but the one originally fitted on the my engine would not turn over quite fast enough. The other Japanese starter we installed works great and it starts immediately now.

Moe
Apache 37

[dieselboy]

Originally Posted by witzgall

I am having issues with our 2002 as well! UGH. It is a really long story, but basically, I now have a remanufactured starter in place, but the only way we can start her is to attach the red wire that energizes the engine panel directly to the positive stud from the battery. Well, that worked for awhile,, but now, the starter either does not turn, or it will spin, not engage the motor, and continues to spin until we disconnect the battery.

The alternator is also not charging. I have removed that and am trying to find a place to test.

The original starter was removed when it would only start in the same way. So I am guessing it is not the starter? OR could both the "NEW" starter, and the old one, both have bad solenoids? Could this be a relay, or ???


Signed,
completely confused.
Chris

Ok...

First what is the voltage on the batts?? below 12.6 recharge them BEFORE you try to start the engine.. Your stater that is staying engaged is due to low volts and the amps are welding the contacts together! which will cause and over speed and the windings will fly apart " your re man starter is toast".

Next
if the starter excites when 12 volts is applied to the start post " the small gauge wire/post" the the problem is not in the starter but the wiring or the starter switch.
Try these and get back with me.