Transmission ATF and unknown oil

[LASWACK]

Hello,

Just had a survey done and the surveyor pointed out that the tranny did not seem to ATF but a non-red oil in her. She was pumped out and ATF used prior to sea trial. Level was low also, but she seemed fine motoring out and back.

The engine is a Perkins M50

Do I have issues if I buy her ? Just worried longer term.

Thank you in advance.

[kd3pc]

without knowing what and how long the fluid was in the gear set, it is difficult to know. wear parts can be permanently damaged by long use of the wrong stuff.

Non-red is not the only identifier for fluids in this day and age.

I would fine the correct fluid, change it a couple of times with some engine hours in between, since she ran fine (forward and reverse, I hope) otherwise.

[Nautichthys]

Check the manual. I'm not familiar with Perkins but the marine gear units I do know don't use ATF. They use single weight engine oil.

[CaptainForce]

Originally Posted by Nautichthys

Check the manual. I'm not familiar with Perkins but the marine gear units I do know don't use ATF. They use single weight engine oil.

I agree with the manual check. Certainly, the recommended fluid for Yanmar's Kanzaki transmission if 30wt. engine oil. I don't know about the Perkins, but there's no wisdom in assuming it's ATF.

[kd3pc]

My Yanmar/Kanzaki KBW-20 specifies Dexron ATF....

check your manual..

[hellosailor]

As nautich said, there's no telling.

SOMEtimes, a "wrong" colored fluid means an upgraded replacement, or a specialty part like "Royal Purple" oils, which are purple. If there is no fill label, no hang tag, no engine log note, a wrong color usually means "Gee, I can't find it, do we have any other oil on the boat?" and it could literally be olive oil for all you know.

Does it work or cause harm? Impossible to tell. Was it there to try hiding slippage or leakage? Impossible to tell. You have to consider the chance that the transmission will need to be removed and overhauled or replaced if the surfaces inside or seals have been damaged.

A truly conservative mariner, thinking about breakdowns in inconvenient places and times, would haul the tranny and send it out for a rebuild "period".

A more trusting soul might say "OK, we're going to put $800 in escrow because the tranny was not maintained properly. I'll buy the boat...but if I get a tranny failure, or a shop statement that it must be overhauled, withint the next 90 days, that escrow money gets applied to the transmission repair."

If the PO really did put something better in there...they'll let you know about it. Any other reply means yes, they did stick in the wrong oil and yes, it will need repairs somewhere down the line.

($800 being a random number for any kind of shop work.)

[kd3pc]

Originally Posted by hellosailor

($800 being a random number for any kind of shop work.)

One year ago, Naptown, about $3K to remove, replace and re-allign the shaft for a 42' hunter - no short haul, in the water, at their dock, one week (gives you time to get it rebuilt)...

all that after YOU have the gearbox rebuilt, likely another $1500-2500, if you can find someone with the tools, parts and knowledge to do it correctly...or buy a new one outright as very few shops will let you tie up their gear and dock while awaiting a rebuild...

The wrong fluid can swell seals, discs and other wear items, such that shifts are tough or not at all...else slippage at RPMs

[CaptainForce]

Originally Posted by kd3pc

My Yanmar/Kanzaki KBW-20 specifies Dexron ATF....

check your manual..

The Kanzaki "Tuff-torque" specifies 30wt, but I've heard a different interpretations for years.

[LASWACK]

Thanks for the input. There is a little red sticker right at the fill/dipstick saying ATF. - I think the escrow suggestion is a great one. Boat will be coming from Annapolis to City Island Bronx.

[RichH]

Originally Posted by CaptainForce

The Kanzaki "Tuff-torque" specifies 30wt, but I've heard a different interpretations for years.

Kanzaki transmissions vary with the proper lube ... the correct fluid to use is usually imprinted on the cover plate (right next to the dip -stick), not the 'manual'.