Volvo Model 2002 leaks

[L124C]

I'm looking at a boat with a fresh water cooled Volvo 2002. Seems to run well but leaks a lot of oil at the front of a shaft (red circle). What does the shaft do (my guess is a hand crank) and how tough would it be to fix the leak? It also leaks water at the hose connection (yellow circle). Same questions. Unfortunately, thats my big thumb in the shot! The other shot has the area in question circled in white. Any general thoughts about the motor will also be appreciated.

[Rockter]

L...

This will help, I think. This is the link for the workshop manual.

http://www.strath.ac.uk/media/depart...hop_Manual.pdf

You have almost certainly worn out the oil seal on the hand-crank shaft.

I have not had to tackle that one before, but my guess is that you will have to take that cover off to get to it. Also, it looks like you will have to drift out that engagement pin that the starter crank engages with.

The rest should not be too difficult.

It looks like your fuel filter will have to come off (that hand-grenade sized thing in the middle of the frame), and your fuel pump too (that wee top-hat thing on the right). They should come off fairly easily. Just push the fuel lines out of the way and tie them off.

Then take the cover off.

A crucial warning though. Before you take the cover off, tape a white plastic bag into position below the cover to catch anything that may fall out of there. Don't let anything fall into the bilge. Don't lever the cover off. Use a mallet to loosen it.

When the cover comes off, it should be apparent where the leak is.

Take the seal out and clean it up. You are very likely to see three numbers on it, like, (and I am guessing) 50 x 30 x 20 (or something). They are the OD, ID and thickness of the seal. There are many good manufacturers that can supply.

Don't buy Volvo seals. They are far too expensive. Go to the net and order two or three of what you need, and keep them in a drawer. Last time I bought a volvo seal it was 14 timesmore expensive than at my local supplier, and it was the same dimension.

Have a look at the shaft to see if it is corrossion-pitted along the seal circumference. The new seal will leak too if that is the case. Sometimes it is possible to knock the new seal deeper into the seal recess, so bringing the new seal lip onto an uncorroded part of tha shaft.

You could try a double-lipped seal too, if you wish.

They are not expensive.

For the cover gasket, you may find, as I have, that old chart paper is an excellent gasket. Use some sealant too if the surfaces are marked. Place your gasket paper over the cover you remove, and use a toffeee hammer to beat out the outline. It works well.


Rockter.

[LightFlightDave]

I'm the seller of the boat and I'll be fixing this seal and doing some general clean up before I really market it for sale. I was waiting for the holidays to pass and to have some time to get it ready for sale. I've seen similar volvo seals cost roughly $20 so measuring and locating aftermarket seals seems unnecessary. I have used a generic seal for an outboard motor main output shaft before with good results, I think it was from mcmastercar, there is nothing wrong with the idea and if the seal is over $50 I'll consider that.

FYI, I think I can see the whole seal from the front of the motor and it should simply slide out the front with a seal removal tool. It does not appear to be an internally locked seal. The only real trick will be to remove the roll pin there.

I've replaced many seals on car and motorcycle engines from the outside in the past. The only other trick here is this one appears to be painted over.

FYI to potential buyer, if you're interested contact me soon I will be properly listing it shortly. She really is a great boat.

I found this thread while searching for an online source for the seal. Hey that looks like my engine! I know a place in the east bay and I'll order monday.

Regards,

-Dave

[LightFlightDave]

here's a guy having some trouble but it seems doable.

I have a Volvo Penta Marine engine 2cylinder 2002, It has been - JustAnswer

[LightFlightDave]

Incase this helps someone having the same problem. The seal where the hand crank shaft exits the motor seems to be volvo part number 840446.

Volvo Penta Exploded view / schematic TIMING GEAR COVER AND GEARS 2002 - MarinePartsEurope.com

[Rockter]

Lightflight :

Yea, I think I can see it too. It has been sprayed green.

If you are into the business of extracting the seal, be very careful not to scratch the shaft, otherwise it will never seal.

And the problem with $20 is that you may not seal it first time. In my case it took about 5 of them before I got it to seal on the tailshaft of the gearbox. The cost difference between self-sourcing the (5) seals and using Volvo-supplied seals was profound... in 1998, $360 plays $26.

For me, that is no contest, and believe me, it's typical of Volvo, and not confined to seals. They will do it with pistons as well, effectively 4 times the cost from Volvo, for the same Mahle piston. The same piston. Volvo insist you buy the piston and liner kit you see, even though there is nothing wrong with your liner, or nothing that a re-bore won't fix.

Volvo build a good motor, in the early models, and with their more recent Perkins designs, but the astronomic cost of spare parts will mean that I will never buy another one.

Never.
.

[LightFlightDave]

Other than incase the shaft was pitted, why would a replacement seal fail to seal it? I guess I'll find out if there is a reason.

I know I'll have to be careful with the seal when installing it, I'll make sure the seal is lubed, this helps it get seated properly. I'll also make sure there are not sharp extruding areas on the shaft on the way in. Of course paying attention to the way it seats as it gets installed is key. Those seals have lips that can easily be bent backwards and cause the seal to fail. Ussually there is also a circular spring you have to mind as well, as they can pop out of the seal if you're not careful. Unless Volvo sources parts that are garbage I think I can get it right.

In my experience it's harder to scratch the shafts than you'd think, but I will certainly take care not to thanks for the good advise.

I ordered the hand crank oil seal, two water seals, one for top and one bottom of the raw water pump, I also got a thermostat and a few seals regarding its replacement. I may remove the heatexchanger and clean it out while I'm at it. I'll post back here once I'm successful. I found a USA based company online that is shipping the parts to me.

marinepartsexpress.com

They seem to have a good selection of OEM volvo parts but I had to use the other webpage reffered in a previous post above for the diagrams. I would have ordered from them if they were in the usa.

Cheers,

-Dave

[Rockter]

dave :

Sometimes there is a wee ring of corrosion pits right at the historic seal surface and if the new seal is the same design, it rides right on the pits and leaks just like the old one.

If that happens, try drifting the new seal in either not as far as the old one, or (preferably) a bit further in.

It took me a long time indeed to solve that problem on a Volvo gearbox seal. At one point we even considered turning down the shaft by about 2 mm, so that the next largest seal would fit it. The line of corrosion pits was really difficult to see.

It is still sealing now some 12 years on, but man, it took us a long time to get it to work, and we went through about 5 seals along the way. I think they were 120 x 100 x 12 mm if I remember. We very nearly had to come down to 120 x 98 x 12 mm, so turning down the shaft is also an option, as long as there is enough beef left to take the loads.
.

[LightFlightDave]

I finally replaced the seal, took about 30 minutes, 45 if you count the time I took to make a custom hook tool out of one of the more useless "seal removal tools" I had.

The seal removal tool I made, I basically grount out of a T handled seal removal tool that had a corkscrew shape formerly. I ground the end of the tool straight, then put a notch on one side. I left as much material as I could fit into the seal area and hook the back since the seal was not coming out easily. After wacking my hand on the battery once after pulling hard I held the hook in place where it had a good grip behind the seal and a friend used a stick we braced against the front of the water pump with a piece of wood and the leverage popped it right out. The T handle on the tool was a necessary feature for the leverage method we used.

I found there was a lip to grab behind the seal since this worked.

I checked the shaft surface, lubed the new seal and installed by lightly tapping it into place using a deep socket of the exact size of the seal.

I've done this all before on cars, atv's etc... This seal was a little more stuck in than on anything I've done, but it came out when I made the right tool.

The oil leak is gone. I hope this info helps someone else someday.

[LightFlightDave]

p.s. thoughts that come to mind when a pitted surface may be a problem, fill pits with jb weld then sand with fine sandpaper and finer sandpaper to polish. Getting a different seal to ride of a different area of the shaft would be a good option if possible. This was not the case for me since I did not have pitting on the seal area.

This was on the hand crank, I do not think anyone would ever use this shaft for its iuntended purpose. Worste case scenario, cover the whole assembely, seal it off...