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post #1 of 9 Old 08-20-2013 Thread Starter
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Raw water flushing

I'm preparing to perform a raw water flush (Rydlyme) of my 2QM15. I know that I need to remove the zincs, impeller, and t- stat, but based on my review of the coolant flow schematic, I 'll also need a way to throttle or secure flow through the bypass circuit. The only way I can think of to do that is to squeeze off the bypass hose with vice grips. Any other methods?

Also, should I flush in normal direction of flow, or reverse? Or some of each?

Any other tips?

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Re: Raw water flushing

With the caveat that I've never flushed my engine with it in place...here's how I would do it:

(Anytime you fill the cooling system with an at-pressure supply with no exhaust pressure you run the risk of getting water into the cylinders...)

Prepare the Rydlyme solution in a five gallon bucket.

Find a hose that will run from the bucket to the RW pump inlet nipple. Tape something to the bucket end of the hose to keep it submerged while the RW pump pumps the Rydlyme into the engine.

Run the engine to get it up to temp. This will increase the effectiveness of your flush due to the higher temp and cause the thermostat to open the cooling circuit as well as the bypass circuit.

Shut the engine down and shut the RW hull valve. Disconnect the RW piping at the RW pump inlet. Place the bucket below engine height so the RW pump has to draw a suction on it (rather than placing it higher than the engine risking gravity filling the engine cylinders through the exhaust valves). Connect the bucket hose to the RW pump intake.

Start the engine and run it until Rydlyme exits the exhaust then shut the engine down.

When you have soaked as long as you desire then disconnect the Rydlyme hose and reconnect the normal RW supply.

Open the sea valve and start the engine and flush the Rydlyme out.

Others may have different experience but I don't know why you need to replace your impeller and zincs. They shouldn't be damaged by exposure to Rydlyme in the short duration of an engine flush. OTOH if they are at or near the end of their service life you can replace them.

Rydlyme is advertised to be biodegradable. Local regulations may require you to collect the solution at the exhaust.

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Re: Raw water flushing

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Originally Posted by fryewe View Post
With the caveat that I've never flushed my engine with it in place...here's how I would do it:

(Anytime you fill the cooling system with an at-pressure supply with no exhaust pressure you run the risk of getting water into the cylinders...)

Prepare the Rydlyme solution in a five gallon bucket.

Find a hose that will run from the bucket to the RW pump inlet nipple. Tape something to the bucket end of the hose to keep it submerged while the RW pump pumps the Rydlyme into the engine.

Run the engine to get it up to temp. This will increase the effectiveness of your flush due to the higher temp and cause the thermostat to open the cooling circuit as well as the bypass circuit.

Shut the engine down and shut the RW hull valve. Disconnect the RW piping at the RW pump inlet. Place the bucket below engine height so the RW pump has to draw a suction on it (rather than placing it higher than the engine risking gravity filling the engine cylinders through the exhaust valves). Connect the bucket hose to the RW pump intake.

Start the engine and run it until Rydlyme exits the exhaust then shut the engine down.

When you have soaked as long as you desire then disconnect the Rydlyme hose and reconnect the normal RW supply.

Open the sea valve and start the engine and flush the Rydlyme out.

Others may have different experience but I don't know why you need to replace your impeller and zincs. They shouldn't be damaged by exposure to Rydlyme in the short duration of an engine flush. OTOH if they are at or near the end of their service life you can replace them.

Rydlyme is advertised to be biodegradable. Local regulations may require you to collect the solution at the exhaust.
Sounds like your procedure is nothing more than a winterization (Antifreeze solution)procedure except "Rydlyme" is used and then flushed after a specific exposure time..
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Re: Raw water flushing

Fry,

I thought about using an approach similar to yours, but I 've decided to use a procedure (based on guidance elsewhere on this site) which does not require the engine to be running (flow provided by a small electric pump) which is why the impeller and t-stat need to be removed. Not sure about the rationale for removing zincs, maybe the acid erodes them? Planned flush time four hours or so.

This approach is pretty well documented on SN, except for my questions about the bypass line and flow direction.

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Re: Raw water flushing

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Originally Posted by aa3jy View Post
Sounds like your procedure is nothing more than a winterization (Antifreeze solution)procedure except "Rydlyme" is used and then flushed after a specific exposure time..
Yep.

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Re: Raw water flushing

Here's one of the threads regarding flushing (from Mainesail). No mention of throttling flow through bypass loop -- maybe I'm worrying too much that flushing medium will flow through the bypass instead of the engine?

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Last edited by Rusty123; 08-20-2013 at 06:53 PM.
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post #7 of 9 Old 08-20-2013
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Re: Raw water flushing

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Here's one of the threads regarding flushing (from Mainesail). No mention of throttling flow through bypass loop -- maybe I'm worrying too much that flushing medium will flow through the bypass instead of the engine?
Just pinch the by-pass hose with hose pinch pliers. These are smooth jawed Vise Grips that won't damage the hose... Reversing the direction of flow can also help and often blows some crud out that did not come out in the first direction. Be sure to use a throttling valve of some sort on the outlet so as to keep some pressure on the block to keep all the passage ways full of the Rydlyme while it is circulating.

If you don't want to spend a lot of money on the pliers Harbor Freight has a set for $15.00..

Radiator Hose Pinch-Off Pliers

HFT also has some cheap circulating pumps that can be a one time use expense....

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Re: Raw water flushing

Thanks Maine -- just what I was looking for.

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Re: Raw water flushing

I completed the Rydlyme flush last weekend. It went pretty well -- from the bubbles and foam, I could tell that it was dissolving quite a bit of crud.

I did have one unanticipated problem though. There is a drain valve on my cylinder head, with a length of hose running into the bilge. The valve has apparently been plugged, since I could never get anything to come out. So I just left it in the "closed" postion (handle at right angles to flow).

But it turns out that that is actually the "open" position, which I discovered when the Rydlyme dissolved the crud that was blocking the valve (about an hour into the flush), and my entire supply of Rydlyme was almost immediately pumped into the bilge.

I thought about trying to reclaim it so that I could finish the flush, but I didn't have a way to effectively filter the bilge detritus, so I just pumped the entire mess overboard (with lots of water and sodium bicarbonate).

At that point, I needed to figure out how to get my hands on more Rydlyme to complete the flush, but I didn't want to wait a week for shipping like I did for the first gallon. On a whim, I stopped by the local outboard repair shop, and not only did they have Rydlyme, but their price was half what I paid to have some shipped to me.

Two lessons learned.

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