Yanmar 2gmf stuck in reverse gear - Page 2 - SailNet Community
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post #11 of 15 Old 10-01-2013
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Re: Yanmar 2gmf stuck in reverse gear

I feel your pain!

It is starting to sound like your shift cable is hanging up (which is good news for your wallet, not so great for your back). The next step is to disconnect the shifter cable from the transmission and see if you can select forward and reverse manually directly on the transmission. that will tell you where to turn next.

the KM2-A is a traditional cone-clutch transmission, so you would be using 30 weight motor oil, not ATF.

these manuals have a chapter devoted to your transmission:

The yanmar service manual:
Boatinfo - Yanmar Service Manual for 1GM, 2GM, 3GM, 3HM

The shop manual (see chapter 10, p199):
http://j30.us/files/YanmarGM&HMWorkshopManual.pdf

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Re: Yanmar 2gmf stuck in reverse gear

Many thanks! I've been looking and looking for that service manual!
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post #13 of 15 Old 10-02-2013
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Re: Yanmar 2gmf stuck in reverse gear

Don't try to shift it without the engine running and don't put it in gear with the prop spinning while sailing, as it can jam and do other nasty things to the gearbox innards.
Read the manual to see whether it should remain in neutral when sailing. My 2GM 20 owner's manual explicitly says leave it in neutral but I won't speculate on other models about which I know nothing......
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Re: Yanmar 2gmf stuck in reverse gear

On the subject of oil: The gearbox nameplate appears to specify (if I'm reading it right) SAE 20/30 HD.

Two questions:

1) Does this make sense, or am I reading it wrong?

2) How important is the HD part? Automotive suppliers I've called have single-weight SAE 30, but not HD, and when they hear the word 'diesel' they tell me I probably want the HD.

Okay, three questions:

3) Where is the HD version to be had? Is this stuff un-shippable, can't be ordered online, etc. ?

Thanks in advance from the poor ignorant n00b.
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post #15 of 15 Old 10-08-2013
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Re: Yanmar 2gmf stuck in reverse gear

Quote:
Originally Posted by rauschpfeife View Post
On the subject of oil: The gearbox nameplate appears to specify (if I'm reading it right) SAE 20/30 HD.

Two questions:

1) Does this make sense, or am I reading it wrong?

2) How important is the HD part? Automotive suppliers I've called have single-weight SAE 30, but not HD, and when they hear the word 'diesel' they tell me I probably want the HD.

Okay, three questions:

3) Where is the HD version to be had? Is this stuff un-shippable, can't be ordered online, etc. ?

Thanks in advance from the poor ignorant n00b.
My gear box says the 30/40 HD. So I can use either 30 weight or 40 weight oil. I use the 30 weight and you can too. My engine calls for 30 weight for the temp range I operate in. So I can use the same oil in my engine- makes life easier as need to have on hand only one type of oil. Check your manual if you can do the same. You must use Diesel rated oil in the engine- It should be also rated Heavy Duty. DO NOT USE GASOLINE ENGINE OIL in the engine.

I get my gear and engine oil (for a yanmar 3gmd) at Walmart. I get the Rotella (Shell Oil I think) Straight 30 weight oil that is rated for Diesels- Note jug says HD of front- Heavy Duty. It comes in a 4 quart plastic jug and sells for about $17. West Marine sells the same oil but at about $5 more. I use the same oil in my engine- but my manual says straigh 30 weight (diesel rated) is ok. The 30 wt should be good for your transmission. Check your engine manual if it is ok for the engine. Make sure you use oil rated for Diesel engines, like the Rotella T1.

Here is a source:
Shell Rotella 550019857-3PK T1 30 Motor Oil - 1 Gallon (Pack of 3) : Amazon.com : Automotive Shell Rotella 550019857-3PK T1 30 Motor Oil - 1 Gallon (Pack of 3) : Amazon.com : Automotive



Rotella® T1 is an easy-flow single grade oil provides quality lubrication consistent performance and excellent wear protection in diesel engines. Low ash content to minimize formation of deposits and to help keep intake ports clean. Outstanding oxidation resistance to help maximize service life. Excellent rust and corrosion protection. Optimized dispersants to help prevent engine sludge and varnish deposits.


What others have said is correct. My engine will not come out of gear if it is left in gear while sailing. The force on the prop and prop shaft jam the gears. Keep her in neutral while sailing- and let prop free spin. You can install shaft brake if you do not like the spinning, but unless you are going to cross an ocean, not really needed.

As others have said, do not over fill the gear box or the engine with oil. Looks like the gear box only takes 0.25 Li about 1/4 of a quart of oil- not much!.

Be carefull what bolts you loosen on the engine or the transmission, you could accidently change and adjustment you cannot get back.

The best way to get the oil out is by sucking in out through the dip stick hole. Many marine engines do not have a drain plug. By draining the oil you could easily flood your bilge with oil and have a big coast guard fine if any gets pumped over board.

I know this is expensive, but it has worked well for me and saves much time (I have tried the hand pumps and found they do not work well):

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...7537_-1?ci_src

Last edited by casey1999; 10-08-2013 at 07:00 PM.
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