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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance > Engines > Diesel
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Diesel This is a new forum dedicated to diesel engines and their applicable accessories.


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  #11  
Old 10-18-2013
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Re: Water in Cylinders

I justdid as sugested, I spun the engine with the decompression levers open for a few seconds and then bled the engine, replace the oil and voila, it runs!!
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  #12  
Old 10-21-2013
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Re: Water in Cylinders

That is a great outcome. Now take it out and run it hard for half an hour to get it really hot. Then bring it in, cooling down slowly. Immediately do another oil and filter change, run it for another hour and then check it shows no sign of milkiness.
Read elsewhere my technique for starting those old Yanmars WITHOUT touching the decompression levers. The only time you may need to resort to those is when your battery is weak. All learned the hard way.

Consider fitting a quick drain at the lowest point of your exhaust so that at the end of the day after you shut the raw water intake you can drain any excess sea water trapped in the system.

May your Yanmar have a long and happy life.

Last edited by arvicola-amphibius; 10-21-2013 at 02:48 AM.
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  #13  
Old 10-22-2013
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Re: Water in Cylinders

Since Mikogold had a successful outcome from your advice, I would like to ask more of less the same questions in the hope someone could help with my problem. Here’s the story:
While changing the ½” water exhaust pipes to ¾” pipe to try to reduce the running temperature, I joined the raw water outlet from the heat exchanger to the exhaust pipe, without going through the anti siphon valve.
The result was a raw water drain back into the cylinders. I didn’t know this might happen, (I do now!), and the motor sat dormant for five weeks.
When I came to start it again it would not even turn over. I removed the injectors and the motor turned over, shooting a great stream of mucky water all over the head liner. There was also water in the oil, so I drained that.
I then did a compression test, #1 cylinder 85psi, #2 124psi, #3 185psi. None of this is high enough to cause combustion. I’m told the rings have seized up.
So I have now removed the head and there was water contamination in the exhaust, though still soft mush. I have cleaned that out and re-ground the valves.
I filled the cylinders with thin oil but after three days soaking I found I could not even turn the motor from the front pulley. The cylinders do not show any scoring.
Is there any way I can avoid lifting the block and removing the pistons and changing the rings? This is a heck of a job and means separating the generator section from the motor.
Any ideas please!
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Old 10-22-2013
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Re: Water in Cylinders

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jolly Roger View Post
Since Mikogold had a successful outcome from your advice, I would like to ask more of less the same questions in the hope someone could help with my problem. Here’s the story:
While changing the ½” water exhaust pipes to ¾” pipe to try to reduce the running temperature, I joined the raw water outlet from the heat exchanger to the exhaust pipe, without going through the anti siphon valve.
The result was a raw water drain back into the cylinders. I didn’t know this might happen, (I do now!), and the motor sat dormant for five weeks.
When I came to start it again it would not even turn over. I removed the injectors and the motor turned over, shooting a great stream of mucky water all over the head liner. There was also water in the oil, so I drained that.
I then did a compression test, #1 cylinder 85psi, #2 124psi, #3 185psi. None of this is high enough to cause combustion. I’m told the rings have seized up.
So I have now removed the head and there was water contamination in the exhaust, though still soft mush. I have cleaned that out and re-ground the valves.
I filled the cylinders with thin oil but after three days soaking I found I could not even turn the motor from the front pulley. The cylinders do not show any scoring.
Is there any way I can avoid lifting the block and removing the pistons and changing the rings? This is a heck of a job and means separating the generator section from the motor.
Any ideas please!
Unfortunately, I think it is time to get the chain hoist out

Maybe, if there is room, you could lay it on its side to unbolt the crank and drop the pistons out the bottom?, probably a band aid approach though. I would think the whole engine should come out and be taken apart for a thorough cleaning, at the very least

Probably new rings and honing in addition to a thorough flush. if there is any corrosion or rust on the crank journals a complete re-build may be the best thing to do.

"Separating the generator"?

Paul T
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Old 10-23-2013
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Re: Water in Cylinders

Hi Dabnis,
Thanks for your response, and you're right about the frown. Is there one shedding crocodile tears?
The latest problem is: I can’t turn the engine using even a big lever on the front pulley bolt, which I think means the rings are seized to the bore on at least one piston and I’m told even the smallest resistance will stop the thing turning.
I know I’ve now got to lift the engine, in order to shove the pistons out the top. But how can I best free them up without damaging the bores? I’ve soaked them in Blaster penetrating oil, but it still won’t move.
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Old 10-23-2013
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Re: Water in Cylinders

If you can figure out (head off) which piston is frozen then freeze the piston with CO2 or 134a refrigerant. This should shrink the piston enough to allow it to come out.

Plan on buying pistons any way and if you can save them it's good.

A normal piston will have some slight wiggle at room temp. A frozen (corroded) one won't. Too much force (hammering) will ruin the lands (grooves) in the piston. If not too bad they can be fixed at an automotive machine shop.

Chances are good that the bores are ruined also. More machine shop stuff.

If you can get them out with no other damage go buy a lottery ticket. Your luck will have changed for the better!
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  #17  
Old 10-23-2013
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Re: Water in Cylinders

Thanks Mechsmith.
It just gets better and better doesn't it?
I wonder if a half block is available and how much?
Anyone want a brand new 6.5kw Phasor generator attached to a half broken motor? The genny part cost $2000 three months ago, and not run more than one hour.
Make me an offer, but it must include coming to my boat in Titusville, Florida, and lifting the bloody thing out.
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Old 10-23-2013
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Re: Water in Cylinders

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Originally Posted by Jolly Roger View Post
Thanks Mechsmith.
It just gets better and better doesn't it?
I wonder if a half block is available and how much?
Anyone want a brand new 6.5kw Phasor generator attached to a half broken motor? The genny part cost $2000 three months ago, and not run more than one hour.
Make me an offer, but it must include coming to my boat in Titusville, Florida, and lifting the bloody thing out.
Ah, I mis-understood, thought it was your main propulsion engine, not to minimize the problem, however. If the engine has many hours on it there may be a ridge at the top of the cylinder which may make getting the pistons out the top difficult without honing or reaming the ridge down.

Paul T
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Old 10-23-2013
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Re: Water in Cylinders

There is no ridge to speak of, just a small ring of carbon which can be scraped away with a knife. Otherwise the bores are score free, but I'm frightened to force the pistons and score the bores. It's a three cylinder motor and I believe # 1 cylinder is the one sticking.
Half blocks are not available and a new motor is $3800, which I just can't afford at the moment.
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Old 10-23-2013
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Re: Water in Cylinders

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jolly Roger View Post
There is no ridge to speak of, just a small ring of carbon which can be scraped away with a knife. Otherwise the bores are score free, but I'm frightened to force the pistons and score the bores. It's a three cylinder motor and I believe # 1 cylinder is the one sticking.
Half blocks are not available and a new motor is $3800, which I just can't afford at the moment.
Well if the pistons are seized in the bores it is most likely to be the rings that are rusted to the bores. I have seen ali piston corrosion but that was in long abandoned engines.

Mix 80% diesel and some transmission fluid or any thin oil and let it sit in the bores for a day or two.

It is best to strip the engine removing the crankshaft but providing the pistons are not at BDC or TDC I have freed off engines without doing this.

Make a round hardwood plug the same dia as the piston and about 6 in long.

Now get a big sledge hammer at least 10 lbs and give it a real whack. Protect the block with some wood if you are not good with a hammer.

Most times the piston will move. You may break the rings though. A ring replacement is cheaper than a new engine!

When I was running a garage we would go out and get all sorts of abandoned / negelected machinery and get them running again. We were not always successful but I think our strike rate was about 90%. Many of these had not been run for 10 -20 years.
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