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post #21 of 35 Old 10-23-2013
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Re: Water in Cylinders

Just a thought, acetone is a pretty good solvent. Perhaps a mix with thin oil left to set for a few days might penetrate? Or, maybe a search will turn up a commercially made product for that specific application?

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post #22 of 35 Old 10-23-2013
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Re: Water in Cylinders

Maybe if you were to heat the whole block gradually with something like this:

Kerosene 70, 000 BTU Forced Air Portable Space Heater - Amazon.com Kerosene 70, 000 BTU Forced Air Portable Space Heater - Amazon.com



it might expand the cylinders a bit and allow the solvent/oil to penetrate. You could probably rent a heater?

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post #23 of 35 Old 10-24-2013
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Re: Water in Cylinders

Hi Guys,
Thanks for all the helpful responses. I have stripped gas engines all my life, but never a diesel suffering from salt water ingress. But Iím learning a lot from this present escapade, and working on this three cylinder baby is certainly easier than a V 8 350 chevy.
I soaked the bores with penetrating oil for three days, it went through #1 & 2 cylinders, but # 3 stayed full. I guessed this was the most solid.
Today I hoisted the complete motor and genny using a tackle from the saloon hatch, and supported it vertically on blocks. After removing the oil pan, (having drained it), I then unscrewed the big end bearings of each con-rod in turn. With a socket on one of the bolts I drove the pistons out the top of the bore with a lump hammer. One shot out like a rocket, one was stiffish, but #3 was a bearóit took a few hard whacks to get it to move, but once past the rings it came out easily. The rings were completely stuck to the piston, but the others were quite loose.
I think the pistons might be reclaimable, but Iíve decided to buy new ďpiston kitsĒ which includes new rings and pin, like Mechsmith recommended. Itís $100 more for each piston, but I think it will be worth it rather than trying to clean up the ring grooves and fit new rings myself.
The bores seem okay, but Iím going to hone them anyway. Never done that either, but I can follow instructions.
I also borrowed a valve spring compressor from Discount Auto, and plan to re-bed the valves.
I sure hope all this does the trick, but if anyone has any further advise I will heartily welcome it.
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post #24 of 35 Old 10-24-2013
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Re: Water in Cylinders

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Originally Posted by Jolly Roger View Post
Hi Guys,
Thanks for all the helpful responses. I have stripped gas engines all my life, but never a diesel suffering from salt water ingress. But Iím learning a lot from this present escapade, and working on this three cylinder baby is certainly easier than a V 8 350 chevy.
I soaked the bores with penetrating oil for three days, it went through #1 & 2 cylinders, but # 3 stayed full. I guessed this was the most solid.
Today I hoisted the complete motor and genny using a tackle from the saloon hatch, and supported it vertically on blocks. After removing the oil pan, (having drained it), I then unscrewed the big end bearings of each con-rod in turn. With a socket on one of the bolts I drove the pistons out the top of the bore with a lump hammer. One shot out like a rocket, one was stiffish, but #3 was a bearóit took a few hard whacks to get it to move, but once past the rings it came out easily. The rings were completely stuck to the piston, but the others were quite loose.
I think the pistons might be reclaimable, but Iíve decided to buy new ďpiston kitsĒ which includes new rings and pin, like Mechsmith recommended. Itís $100 more for each piston, but I think it will be worth it rather than trying to clean up the ring grooves and fit new rings myself.
The bores seem okay, but Iím going to hone them anyway. Never done that either, but I can follow instructions.
I also borrowed a valve spring compressor from Discount Auto, and plan to re-bed the valves.
I sure hope all this does the trick, but if anyone has any further advise I will heartily welcome it.
If the valve seats look clean suggest you go lightly with the grinding compound. Also, if they have rubber/Viton? seals, replace with new.

Paul T
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post #25 of 35 Old 10-24-2013
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Re: Water in Cylinders

clean all oil galleys, pipes, and pump. I mean clean, the way you clean a rifle after using it. You could even vat the block when you get everything out of it, your local engine rebilder should be happy to do it.

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post #26 of 35 Old 10-25-2013
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Re: Water in Cylinders

I had intended to re-lap the valves myself, but we have a NAPA machine shop in Titusville and they will do it, including skimming the head if it is warped, for $90. So I’ve given it to them because I have enough to do with the rest of the motor.
The piston with the seized rings was not just a result of the recent water ingress. The oilways were totally clogged up with old dry oil and it’s a wonder the engine did not throw the rod before now. Anyway, I have ordered new pistons and rings.
Now, bearing in mind the motor is sitting vertically, attached to the generator section beneath it, on it’s platform in the bilge. I can't possibly take it anywhere, it's just too heavy and won't fit through the door without splitting the generator off it.
So how is it best to clean the rest of the engine and oil ways?

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Last edited by Jolly Roger; 10-25-2013 at 06:19 PM.
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post #27 of 35 Old 10-25-2013
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Re: Water in Cylinders

A search on engine oil passage cleaners came up with all kinds of products:

https://www.google.com/#q=engine+oil+passage+cleaner

If you suspect oil passages may be blocked, low oil pressure, or the pick up screen plugged up, or lots of sludge in the pan or valve covers, I suppose you could try one or more of the products.

If the passages are really plugged up, it is possible the only thing that may work is to have the block & head "hot tanked" by a shop.

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Re: Water in Cylinders

Galley brushes. very stiff small diameter bottle brushes 3 ft long.

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post #29 of 35 Old 10-26-2013
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Re: Water in Cylinders

Remove any oil plugs and small parts. Hot tank, Rifle brushes, lint free rags and time. After the hot tank spray it off good with WD40 or equivalent to prevent further rusting. It must be cleaner than dishes. Compressed air is useful.

Be careful that machine shop doesn't take too much metal off the valves. I have run across anodized or aluminized valves that shouldn't be ground at all. (Ford "Kent" engines for example).

I hope that you are familar with "antiseize" and "Locktite" or equivalent".

Good luck and it's actually kind of fun. All parts of the lifestyle!

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post #30 of 35 Old 10-26-2013
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Re: Water in Cylinders

I donít know what Ďhot tankingí is, but if it means I have to take it somewhere it canít be done for the reasons Iíve already explained. The inside of the block is quite clean with no signs of rust, but I can scour it with a degreaser.
There is also no sign of rust or any contamination on the rods or big end shells.
I thought of using engine start (ether) or carbí cleaner (carbon tetí) on the passageways, then blowing them out with compressed air.
I told the machine shop guy what it was all about, and he said he would be careful with the valves, and only skim the head if it was outside normal limits. Iím sure they will do a better job than I could do with my suction cups.
I use locktite to stop screws coming loose, but is this another product?

Who would be mad enough to convert a perfectly good Ketch into a Brigantine Schooner?
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