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installing a new gas tank for my 28' boat

2K views 13 replies 7 participants last post by  guyfromiowa 
#1 ·
Hi,

I have a 34 year old Spirit 28, with original tank and motor (yanmar2qm15)

As any who has read my posts will know, I have had MUCH trouble since buying the boat in June with that engine.

As it turns out, it was primarily dirty injectors and crappy fuel - fuel from a rusty old tank. In fact, there is so much rust from this tank the filters were filled with a fine red mud after only a few weeks of sailing.

A friend has given me a new aluminium tank (approximately the same size, also a 20 gallon tank) and I am hoping to install it over the winter/spring as the boat is now on the hard.

Unfortunately, it looks like the only way to get at the tank is to pull out the engine first - a formidable task. I have experience with car engines, but little with marine diesel engines.

Does anyone have experience with this?


Thanks
 
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#2 ·
The access will be less convenient and you've got to worry about scratching some cabinetry along the way, compared to pulling a car engine.

This is a bit different as you have no intention/need to work on the engine itself.. otherwise I'd suggest removing peripherals like starters, manifolds, etc.. anything that will make the package smaller/lighter for shoehorning in and out. Also you probably needn't lift the engine fully out of the boat, if you have room to shunt it aside to the point that you can get at the tank. You may be able to rig a tackle off the boom to help move the engine around once you get the mounts and connections off.

Wiring harness, fuel line(s), exhaust hose, prop shaft coupling and shift/throttle cables will be your major points of disconnect - some of which may not give way easily after all this time.

Is the 'new' tank set up for diesel? ie do you have a fill (in the right place), a pickup line and a return line connection? And approx similar size, but how about shape? how will it sit in the current tank's location? I'd do some very careful measuring/investigation before starting to rip things apart. It would be fortunate indeed if all the fittings actually were going to work for you as is..

Also, don't finalize the engine alignment after you're done until the boat's floating again.. she's likely sitting differently on the pads than in the water.

Best of luck!
 
#3 ·
The access will be less convenient and you've got to worry about scratching some cabinetry along the way, compared to pulling a car engine.

This is a bit different as you have no intention/need to work on the engine itself.. otherwise I'd suggest removing peripherals like starters, manifolds, etc.. anything that will make the package smaller/lighter for shoehorning in and out. Also you probably needn't lift the engine fully out of the boat, if you have room to shunt it aside to the point that you can get at the tank. You may be able to rig a tackle off the boom to help move the engine around once you get the mounts and connections off.

Wiring harness, fuel line(s), exhaust hose, prop shaft coupling and shift/throttle cables will be your major points of disconnect - some of which may not give way easily after all this time.

Is the 'new' tank set up for diesel? ie do you have a fill (in the right place), a pickup line and a return line connection? And approx similar size, but how about shape? how will it sit in the current tank's location? I'd do some very careful measuring/investigation before starting to rip things apart. It would be fortunate indeed if all the fittings actually were going to work for you as is..

Also, don't finalize the engine alignment after you're done until the boat's floating again.. she's likely sitting differently on the pads than in the water.

Best of luck!
Thanks. Good advice. It's a big job , but necessary.

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#5 ·
Should I add a drain valve to the bottom of the tank ?
I'm told every three or four year department of transport (canada) ships have to have their deisel tanks drained and cleaned.

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#7 ·
Hmm... I doubt cheaper, unless I mess up something. Someone else had mentioned cutting the cockpit floor to do this. But I'm not sure of the logistics... I wouldn't know where to begin

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#8 ·
I too have a Spirit 28 with a 2qm15. The PO told me he pulled and painted the tank. Not sure whether he went out the Port side through the quarter berth, or starboard side through lazarette though. But I bet you can do it without pulling the engine.

Russ
 
#9 ·
I'm going to look today at the wall to the quarter berth. It may be removable, I can't see the tank coming up through the lazarette without some chopping.
 
#11 ·
Thanks. I looked today , but didn't have a chance to check in detail . Looks like 11 inches clearance...
Now, the question is - if the old one can come out that way, will the new one to in that way ....

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#13 ·
The one I have was bought second hand, but for a motorboat. I would shop around and look for a good deal, paying to have one fabricated will be pricey.

Good luck with your boat!!! I am waiting till spring to install my tank, still haven't decided exactly how to go about putting it in.
 
#14 ·
My boat had an aluminum tank. It corroded and burst. I replaced it with a 'box-shaped' tank mounted under a starboard cockpit seat. The tank came from Moeller.

Moeller Marine Online - Permanent Tanks

The cross-linked polyethylene can never corrode, but I did have to fabricate a shelf for the new tank. I've used this style tank for several other projects and I'm happy with the results.
 
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