Originally Posted by eherlihy
FWIW - The reason that cracking the injectors stopped the runaway (I can't believe that someone did this on a running engine
) is that compression was lost. Whatever the source of fuel that the engine was running on, it could no longer ignite, due to the lower compression.
I don't know the Perky in particular, but the preferred way to stop a runaway is to block the air supply.
For the symptom that you describe, I would suggest that you put a socket on that big nut on the crankshaft and try to turn the engine over slowly. If you can do this, then the kerlunk is the starter/battery. However, if you can turn the engine, I would then try to VERIFY that you have the compression within each cylinder within spec.
It is likely that a connecting rod, or a bearing, went bye-bye. This is because the loss in compression when the injectors were removed, allowed the pistons to place unusual strain on the connecting rods and bearings (that the compression was no longer helping to slow these rapidly moving parts down). This is why those of us with compression release levers should NEVER use them to stop a run away engine. It is better to cram a cushion in the air cleaner.
I suspect that you may have a connecting rod that has detached itself from a piston, and is stuck against a cylinder wall. Turning the engine over slowly, and testing compression will help you diagnose if this is the case.
all of what you guys said is all well and good. this was not a fuel line fix. this was a crack injectors fix.
it wasnt the engine blowby causing this it was injector pump grande fail.
then came the rest.
and so ka lunk , as i shall rename my gremlin riddled engine, is going to be silent for yet another month until we get more parts. like a head gasket.
we will also have the head examined...not the toilet, the engines head..lol
the appropriate wrench has been painted green and shall live on an attachment to engine in appropriate location.
who has time to don appropriate safety apparel when your engine is running at 28000 rpm.. rodlmffao.aint happening. you die with it if you are there.
is why my repair guy had pallor not color.
no it cannot be stopped by pinching fuel line.. that is wasted time and energy. go for the engine FAST or both you and boat will DIE.
pinching fuel line only does that which the now nonfunctional kill switch does. now , as you are burning only what is or was in your oil tank, kill the engine. injectors will do that. they are readily available and fastest way to kill the 29000rpm grenade to be.
tennis ball in a mushroom shaped air cleaner..not just no but****NO, as you first must remove that lovely mushroom and that is also wasted energy and effort. go for the first thing you are able to kill. injectors. or stuff a shirt into the mushroom and pray you havent any air leaks into engine...
do not wast time.
mine ranaway for less than 5 minuets.
no registered overheat(water system) and no BOOM.....now is just stuck.
nothing an old derelict boatwright cannot fix, at this time. it will just take a bit of time, as money is rare when disabled..lol...poco a poco.
as for the main part of engine being bad now--i think not. perkins isnt yanmar or delicately made fancy engine....they are forklift, bus and tractor engines with burliness and gutz. there was NO boom. no detonation . no noise of appropriate sound to have broken interior of engine beyond what we have so far found. all makes sense.
until one has actually experienced this and been thru it, it is all well and good to spew noise and type words, but the reality is that this is how it was. i didnt make up a theoretical bs trollit thread, honey, i lived tru this with my boat intact and my repair guy still alive and willing to work.
nor did i die or pull a ***** girly move and quit.
we will remove the head in a month's time and take to repair shop to evaluate its trueness and repair what is necessary to repair. it is a wondrous blessing i am not doing this in usa, as pricing would be more than 5 times greater than it will be.
my injector pump and lift pump and transmission oil heat exchanger cost me less than 200 usdollars to rebuild in full each and every piece i took to the wonderful and intelligent pump rebuilder, who is mexican and awesome good. try doing that in usa. pparts alone would kill ye in price.
i writ that which i endure as teaching for others. whenye bad my words you negate the experience i am trying to relate. quit the argumentative bs as it is not productive.
what i endured i endured. so did my repair guy. and my boat.
i will post updates as i am able to so do. enjoy your winter. mine will be spent fixing instead of sailing. yes it is our best sailing season and i am missing outdammit.......
thank gods for opb......
first kalunk was investigated as battery so we fixed that. not involved. is mechanical, not electrical.
btw, i am not an engine ingenue..i am a motorhead, and have much experience with blowing up engines what with having done much work for many years in sports car racing arena. hell, i even repaired my own 1970 buick gs 455 stage I. biggest engine i ever fixed....lol....i was used to repairing all volkswagens even my mommas before i did nursing work.
throwing a rod , warping heads, holing pistons, and breaking valves and pushrods is a great way to learn how not to do it...also watching others do same is even funner.
engines are quite similar in systems to humans.
i love the smell of petrochemicals and hydrocarbons in the morning.....