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post #1 of 11 Old 12-04-2013 Thread Starter
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winterize an engine exhaust system

How do you winterize an engine exhaust system? Boat is a Catalina 25 w/Universal diesel engine. Could not find any drain valves for the intake water. Engine has antifreeze. Thought about using a wet/dry vac to suck water out the exhaust at transom. I assume the manifold and muffler are full of water. I can take off the cover from the pump if necessary. Boat is out of the water since Sunday

Prior years I left it in the slip with a heater plugged in
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post #2 of 11 Old 12-04-2013
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Re: winterize an engine exhaust system

Close seacock for raw water intake. Remove hose from seacock and stick it in a small bucket of antifreeze. Run the engine long enough to suck antifreeze through the exhaust system, making sure not to let your bucket (and thus the engine) run dry.

Some owners install a valve on the raw water intake hose to be able to do this without taking the hose off the seacock.


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post #3 of 11 Old 12-04-2013
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Re: winterize an engine exhaust system

You will get a lot of answers to this question.

Here is what I do, and I have an M25 in my O'day 35;
I have a sea water strainer between my through hull, and the raw water pump.

I shut the through hull, and remove the cap from my raw water strainer.
I remove the drain from the waterlift muffler on the exhaust.
I drain the raw water strainer, or suck it dry with a shop vac.
I invert a gallon of -60 antifreeze onto the top of the raw water strainer. I also have another gallon ready to go, if this one empties.
I start the engine, and watch the exhaust drain until the exhaust turns purple. I then shut down the engine.
I then take the (empty) gallon of antifreeze off of the strainer.
I then remove the raw water impeller, and leave the cover off.
I remove the zinc from the heat exchanger, and vacuum the liquid as it spills out with the shop vac. I keep the vacuum on the heat exchanger zinc nipple until I start drawing air from the raw water pump.
I then remove the end cover from the heat exchanger, and vacuum out the HX chamber.
Finally, I vacuum out the waterlift muffler from the drain, but I leave the drain plug off until the spring.

Hope this helps...


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Last edited by eherlihy; 12-04-2013 at 05:21 PM. Reason: changed "impeller" to "raw water pump".
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post #4 of 11 Old 12-04-2013
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Re: winterize an engine exhaust system

Most folks will recommend doing something similar to that described above. The biggest change I see is that Maine Sail and others recommend not just running the engine until the antifreeze shows in the exhaust, but actually running it until the antfreeze is essentially full strength at the exhaust. Otherwise you wind up with diluted antifreeze in the pipes and that will increase the freezing/slush point of the mixture in there which isn't a good thing. In the end, in North Texas, you may be OK, but realistically you're probably looking at the cost of one or two more bottles of antifreeze compared to the cost of replacing your engine.
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post #5 of 11 Old 12-04-2013
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Re: winterize an engine exhaust system

Done the way that I suggest above, the raw water system is primarily full of air, and secondarily a mixture of PG and sea water. The benefit of draining the system is that that any remaining liquid in the raw water system will have plenty of room for expansion, it is likely to have a much lower freeze point than seawater, and I inspect the whole thing as I do the draining.

The components that are being protected from bursting due to freeze expansion are: the seacock, the raw water strainer, the raw water pump, the heat exchanger, the anti-siphon valve, the mixing valve, and the waterlift muffler.


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post #6 of 11 Old 12-04-2013
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Re: winterize an engine exhaust system

mmm...always brought great comfort to me knowing that
system was protected by corrosion inhibiting anti freeze
rather than left dry and subject to rusting when exposed to air.
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post #7 of 11 Old 12-05-2013
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Re: winterize an engine exhaust system

Quote:
Originally Posted by eherlihy View Post
... The components that are being protected from bursting due to freeze expansion are: the seacock, the raw water strainer, the raw water pump, the heat exchanger, the anti-siphon valve, the mixing valve, and the waterlift muffler.
Bear in mind that if the raw water impeller is neoprene (some are neoprene, some are nitrile) it will be ruined by PG. In this case, EG is a better choice (does not damage neoprene or nitrile).

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post #8 of 11 Old 12-05-2013 Thread Starter
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Re: winterize an engine exhaust system

Thanks for the info.
I thought about putting the pink stuff I used in the RV and the potable water system in the boat. Taking things apart to install the antifreeze to get through a couple of days of possible freeze temps during the night seems to be a lot of work. I will put a light bulb in the engine compartment today. I have to run a 200 foot extension cord to get power which should be OK for a light bulb.
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post #9 of 11 Old 12-05-2013
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My approach

Similar to what others have said, but here are the specifics.

With the boat on the hard:
  1. Drain water from muffler. Allow to drain into the bilge. Recap drain port.
  2. Pull strainer and drain the water from it using a turkey baster. Reinstall strainer basket.
  3. Between my strainer and the water pump, I have a port where I can install a hose, which can insert into a bucket of AF.
  4. Start motor and suck a gallon of -60 deg F Glycol AF
  5. Once the gallon of -60 is gone, I pour in a gallon of -100 deg F Glycol AF.
  6. I run engine until the flowing AF out the back starts to spit.
  7. Shutdown the motor
  8. Drain the muffler again.

Never had an issue with temps down to -10 deg F. Draining the water out of the motor/muffler first results in less AF dilution and therefore the need to use a lot of AF to insure protection.
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post #10 of 11 Old 12-06-2013
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Re: winterize an engine exhaust system

Not to forget the thu hull for head and sink .Really cold can crack the valve . Close the valve as the antifreeze runs out thru it. Fortunately ,here in BC winterizing means putting on a sweater when you go on deck.
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