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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance > Engines > Diesel
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Diesel This is a forum dedicated to diesel engines and their applicable accessories.


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  #21  
Old 09-28-2009
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Steve
This boat is new to me it is a Morgan 383, and the engine was installed in South Florida, and I am in Texas, and were I am located Yanmar specialist are hard to come buy around here. I would have called someone already but the closest one I can find is two hours are better from the boat. I have worked on diesels before and this particular problem has me stumped so far.
Dozer
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  #22  
Old 09-28-2009
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How does it idle? Is it nice and smooth or does it rattle and shake? If you have an air leak it's likely that it wont idle well.

Does it have good power? Will it turn close to 3000 rpms (the rated rpm for this unit)? Make sure it's fully warmed up and the bottom / prop is clean before trying this.

My Yanmar 4JH2E doesn't have glow plugs. Since your motor is designed with them you may have to run them for 20 seconds before starting. A warm cylinder helps, but it's not like a red hot glow plug to fire off ignition.
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  #23  
Old 09-28-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary M View Post
You may have too many filters. The mechanical pumps only put out about 3-4 psi and each filter causes a pressure drop, however I would think this would show up at higher RPMs. Also if you have a 2 micron as your primary that will have a larger pressure drop than a 20 micron.
YEP! Fuel filters every time... unless it's a bad pump. My money is on the filters. The number of hours is irrelevant. What matters is the condition of your tanks and lines and where you buy your fuel. The fuel viscosity and combustion chamber temp amplifies the issue. A good diesel additive helps both. Smells better too.
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  #24  
Old 09-28-2009
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If your filters are restricting fuel flow you will have low power when you open up the throttle.

If you do replace the filters you should have a 30 or 10 micro primary and a Yanmar secondary. My Yanmar secondary is 2 micron.
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Old 09-29-2009
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Every thing on the engine was replaced new, from fuel lines from the tank to muffler at stern.
I have replaced all filters. And polished the fuel with a pump and filter system at over 2 gal. a min. for over an hour, 40 gal tank. Found very small amount of trash in the fuel. I have since added a fungicide, and the PO used marvel mystery oil, the diesel is a red tent. I have only added 12 gal. of fuel so far and I bring it from home with a 6 gal tanks. Racor 500, 2 micron no trash in bowl as of now. I have found what I believe to be a in line fuel pump at the engine. Then their is a filter on the engine, and I have no clue what micron it may be. Filters are Yanmar and Racor.
I am with you on the air leak but how do I find it????
And Dieselboy I will give you a call!!
Dozer
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Old 09-29-2009
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And buy the way I forgot.
Once the engine is started she is fine. Idle is fine and smooth. Will run up to 32000 rpms. Never have herd a sputter. It is just hard to START!
Dozer
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Old 09-29-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dockdozer View Post
And buy the way I forgot.
Once the engine is started she is fine. Idle is fine and smooth. Will run up to 32000 rpms. Never have herd a sputter. It is just hard to START!
Dozer
Hmmm... I still say the issue is fuel pressure, but I'm not there working on it. Diesel fuel systems do work on very low pressure and once drained can take a while to charge back up. Most diesels will not start after a filter change without a lot of ether, which can do serious harm to your pistons and rod bearings, or manually pressurizing the fuel system. Sounds now like a possible leaking injector causing your pressure to drain while shut down. The return line from the pump to the tank could also be leaking down. There should be an spring-loaded type pressure valve in the pump. The only way to confirm most of this is with lots of gauges, pressurizing the fuel system using an alternative method, and watching where the pressure drops (if any) are taking place. It may be time for a pro with all the right tools to have a go at it. Best of luck.
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  #28  
Old 09-29-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dockdozer View Post
And buy the way I forgot.
Once the engine is started she is fine. Idle is fine and smooth. Will run up to 32000 rpms. Never have herd a sputter. It is just hard to START!
Dozer
Is your starter motor turning it fast enough? I once went round and round with an engine and realized the problem when I heard an identical engine turn over. I never realized that mine was being turned too slowly. New starter fixed everything, but I can see where you may have a good starter, good battery, and still turn too slowly because of connection problems.

BTW: For cold weather starting I lift the compression release, open the throttle, and give her a 3 second spin. Then I close the compression release, and spin her again. Starts right up.
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  #29  
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The Racor should have a 10 or 30 micron element, not 2 micron. You should change that out at some point but I don't think that's the problem right now. If it were you'd have low power.

Slow cranking is a good thought. Are the starter connections and ground wire connections clean and tight? What does the voltage read at the starter during cranking?
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  #30  
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I will have to check the starter and connections, the battery was replaced last year with the engine. I am looking for some gauges so I can look for an air leak. Ok a leaking injector? Are you saying a leak at the fuel line going to the injector, or the injector it self? And that is a new idea that the injector pump leaking back down the return line! Thanks Guys for all the ideas were to look.
Dozer
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