Tartan 27' owner
Join Date: Jan 2008
Thanked 118 Times in 110 Posts
Rep Power: 9
All of the above is good advice from diesel owners.
As a gas engine owner (Atomic Bomb 4) my only input is that you should be careful about cranking your engine for an extended amount of time with the raw water sea-**** open. After you change the impeller and are ready to try starting it open the sea-**** and crank the engine for a few seconds to get some water in the water pump impeller for lubrication, then shut it off until the engine actually starts. I am not sure if this would be a problem on fresh water cooled engines but with raw water (only) cooled engines, excessive cranking can cause a lot of water to accumulate in the water lift muffler and without the air pressure from an active exhaust, the water can back flow into the crank case of some engines filling the cylinders with water which is bad.
If your diesel has 'glow plugs' for pre-heating the cylinders it would be nice to know that these are still functioning before over cranking the engine.
Also, apparently WD40 can be used on diesels instead of ether on gas engines. You might try spraying the air intake with a bit of WD 40 to see if it will even turn over.
Compression engines are a bit of a different animal then spark ignition (gas) engines and I have come to understand something about both. Not all lubricating oils are meant for Compression engines as most are manufactured for automobiles (Spark). Look for the API (American Petroleum Institute) decal on any oil can and find one that has a Cx rating as Sx ratings are for Spark engines. There are different additives for C vs. S type engines. The oil I use is by Shell called Rotella-T which is rated for both spark & compression engines.
Much of the above ramble is from reading the Nigel Caulder "Boatowners Mechanical & Electrical Manual' where he discusses oil types.
Best of luck.
"The cure for anything is salt water~ sweat, tears, or the sea." ~Isak Denesen
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