Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: New England
Thanked 7 Times in 7 Posts
Rep Power: 10
You can run the engine on the hard using the techniques mentioned: 5 gallon bucket, inlet hose, and a garden hose to fill the bucket. However, I'd run the engine for longer than a few minutes to make sure it warms up to open the thermostat and get flow through the rest of heat exchanger. 4 to 5 minutes (3 or 4 5-gallon buckets) should be enough to get the engine warm and open up the thermo. Also by running the motor a little longer, you make sure that you get all of the sea water out, which has salts and can combine with the glycols and form complexes which and lead to deposits in the motor, very small probability.
When adding the AF, let the fresh water almost drain to the bottom of the bucket before you pour in the AF. I mean when there is about a pint of water left, quickly start adding the AF. Add another gallon when there is almost a pint of the first gallon left. By waiting until the very last moment to add the AF, you minimize the dilution. Dilution of the AF with water reduces it's effectiveness. The first gallon of AF is immediately diluted as it pushes the water out of the engine The second gallon is not as diluted when it comes in contact with the AF already in the motor.
Also, I recommend draining your muffler after you winterize your motor. By doing so, you don't leave fluid in the line, which can leak as the different materials expand and contract with the temperature changes. Remember the boat is now on the hard, it will go from being very hot to very cold. When it is the water, the temperature changes aren't as great.
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