running diesel on the hard? - SailNet Community
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post #1 of Old 10-28-2009 Thread Starter
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running diesel on the hard?

I'll have to winterize my new (to me) Yanmar 3JH3E soon and I'm wondering if I can run it while it's on the hard without causing damage. I want to run it to warm up the oil before sucking it out.

I assume with the closed cooling system will be able to run it without causing damage if I stop it right away when the normal operating temperature is reached. But what about the fact that the exhaust system is not being cooled? How long before this causes damage?

Is there anyway I can run a hose into the system with cold water running to avoid damage while it's warming up?

Thanks in advance!
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post #2 of Old 10-28-2009
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Do NOT connet a garden hose direct! Do take the raw water intake hose off the seacock or strainer, put IT in a bucket and put the garden hose into the bucket, start the engine and match the flow of the garder hose with the intake of the raw water pump. You can run as long as you need as long as the water in the bucket keeps the intake submerged.
There is a toilet like plunger cup with garden hose connection that can be put over the RW intake also. like the "muffs" outboarders use. I like the bucket method better, which is also how you "draw" RV antifreezed into the RW system for winter storage.

Good luck!

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post #3 of Old 10-28-2009
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Not a good idea. Your impeller will be dry and disintegrate. I only run it on the hard for about a minute or so, just long enough to suck up a couple of gallons of antifreeze. Running a hose is not a good idea due to the pressure. You might try a bucket with a hose in it but I don't think a hose would fill the bucket as fast as it gets sucked out.

You should have changed the oil in the water but since you didn't you might try warming it up with an electric heater under the pan.

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post #4 of Old 10-28-2009
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Use of a garden hose in a bucket to feed the raw water intake is very common, I've done it annual for most 30 years.

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post #5 of Old 10-28-2009
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As others have mentioned, running from a bucket is fine.
It's nice if you have a 2nd person, onb the ground, so thye can turn on/off / adjust the water flow rate of the garden hose, which would be filling the bucket. You only go through a 5 gallon pale every minute or two. I like to take the hose off the raw water seacock, put it in the bucket, then take the top off of the water strainer, and fill it up, so that the system is as full of water as possible, before starting the engine. Make sure the water level goes down in the bucket, (or look for water coming out the exhaust) so you know it is putting water through the system, so you don't harm your impeller.
You can run indefintely like this, as long as you keep the bucket filled above the level of your water hose (to strainer and pump).
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post #6 of Old 10-28-2009
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I use a hose section to have the engine pump the fresh water tank dry. Then I use a funnel to run through 2 gallons of antifreeze through the filter, heat exchanger and waterlift muffler. It doesn't run long enough to heat the oil, but I have already changed that in the water.
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post #7 of Old 10-29-2009
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All good advice - I just did finished mine this week.

Took the hose off the raw water intake. Added hose to reach a large bucket. Put a garden hose into the bucket and filled it 3/4 full. Started the engine and looked out the back to make sure water was coming through.

I let it warm up and then let the water get to about an inch of the bottom of the bucket and added a couple of gallons of the pink potable antifreeze - (the same stuff you winterize the head and sink water lines with) rather than green engine antifreeze which is really hard on the environment.

I kept looking out the back until I saw pink coming out the exhaust (while still watching and adding more pink stuff to the bucket.

Once the exhaust water was pink, I shut her down and used what ever pink stuff was left over on the domestic water system and head.

Not rocket science - easy to do.

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post #8 of Old 10-29-2009
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Quote:
have a 2nd person, onb the ground, so thye can turn on/off / adjust the water flow rate of the garden hose
Even better, is to have one of these on the end of the hose...



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post #9 of Old 10-29-2009
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Ditto

You can run the engine on the hard using the techniques mentioned: 5 gallon bucket, inlet hose, and a garden hose to fill the bucket. However, I'd run the engine for longer than a few minutes to make sure it warms up to open the thermostat and get flow through the rest of heat exchanger. 4 to 5 minutes (3 or 4 5-gallon buckets) should be enough to get the engine warm and open up the thermo. Also by running the motor a little longer, you make sure that you get all of the sea water out, which has salts and can combine with the glycols and form complexes which and lead to deposits in the motor, very small probability.

When adding the AF, let the fresh water almost drain to the bottom of the bucket before you pour in the AF. I mean when there is about a pint of water left, quickly start adding the AF. Add another gallon when there is almost a pint of the first gallon left. By waiting until the very last moment to add the AF, you minimize the dilution. Dilution of the AF with water reduces it's effectiveness. The first gallon of AF is immediately diluted as it pushes the water out of the engine The second gallon is not as diluted when it comes in contact with the AF already in the motor.

Also, I recommend draining your muffler after you winterize your motor. By doing so, you don't leave fluid in the line, which can leak as the different materials expand and contract with the temperature changes. Remember the boat is now on the hard, it will go from being very hot to very cold. When it is the water, the temperature changes aren't as great.

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post #10 of Old 10-29-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrB View Post
Remember the boat is now on the hard, it will go from being very hot to very cold. When it is the water, the temperature changes aren't as great.
DrB
Dr B - don't I wish. The only way to get it hot in February is to plug in a bunch of 120 V heaters and hope it brings the ambient temp up above - 10 C



Rik - where it gets too cold in February!

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