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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance > Engines > Diesel
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Diesel This is a forum dedicated to diesel engines and their applicable accessories.


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  #11  
Old 01-13-2010
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I have a Westerbeke 42 B and the threads are counterclockwise.
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Old 01-13-2010
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Same here 42 B and counter ....I use the strap kind for years ( filter wrench ) It will bend the heck out of a filter and they will come off ! About a three inch wide strap on 3/8 drive rachett ,
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Old 01-14-2010
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I know the OP has solved the problem, but; In addition to using a screw driver like a punch (hit the left hand side (as you look at the filter) to loosen), but you can drive the screwdriver all the way through the center of oil filter. It gives you an absolutely positive grip on the filter, the filter will come off. I've seen filters where even chain type strap wrenches would slip or crush the filter and still not loosen it.
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  #14  
Old 01-15-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thinplaces View Post
In addition to using a screw driver like a punch (hit the left hand side (as you look at the filter) to loosen), but you can drive the screwdriver all the way through the center of oil filter. It gives you an absolutely positive grip on the filter, the filter will come off. I've seen filters where even chain type strap wrenches would slip or crush the filter and still not loosen it.
My experience was different from yours...

Quote:
I'm not a fan of the screwdriver method, as it frequently tears the can, and then you have even less area to work with. (When this happened to me, I used a chisel to get a bite on the mounting plate, and swore that I'd never try the screwdriver trick again.)
The source problem is that sometimes people over tighten the filter. Finger tight +1/4 - 1/3 turn is all that should be required. If the filter still leaks, take a close look at the plate on the block against which the filter is tightened. If someone has tightened the filter to "gorilla foot pounds," then you need to either apply the torque directly to the base plate of the filter (that's why the chisel worked), or spread the torque across as much of the can portion of the filter as possible.

The chain type strap wrench concentrates the torque in a narrow band. It will work great if you can grip the filter down at the base plate. Usually, however, you can't, and it may crush the can as you apply too much force for the thin walls of the can to withstand. If you can only grab a portion of the can, it is better to use a strap wrench with a wide strap (1" or more).

Last edited by eherlihy; 01-15-2010 at 07:40 AM.
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Old 01-15-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tthomson View Post
I have a Westerbeke 42 B and the threads are counterclockwise.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Danny33 View Post
Same here 42 B and counter ....I use the strap kind for years ( filter wrench ) It will bend the heck out of a filter and they will come off ! About a three inch wide strap on 3/8 drive rachett ,

I am guessing you guys are saying they are counter-clock wise to remove them, which is true. They are a standard righty-tighty, lefty-loosey filter.

I just wanted to make this clear so know one would think to remove them you turn clockwise...

The 42B uses a Westerbeke #35828 oil filter and that crosses over to a Fram PH2921.. It is a standard 20mm metric threaded filter..
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  #16  
Old 01-20-2010
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When I was a rookie mechanic a senior mechanic showed me a trick to get oil filters off, even the most stubborn ones using a regular oil filter wrench.

Apply maximum force on the handle without bending or mutilating the handle and just keep that force steady until the filter loosens. Sometimes it takes a while but it will move. I have done that for up to 30 to 60 seconds and even longer to get them to loosen.

Steady force works every time, I have never had to mutilate a filter or filter wrench since being shown that method.

I have been doing that for over twelve years now and I am still using the same filter wrenches after who knows how many filters (in the thousands).
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Old 01-20-2010
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Ha great idea! Certainly a hell of a lot cleaner too! I managed to make very little mess at least by putting a plastic bag underneath the filter!
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Old 01-20-2010
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On the subject oil filters, please be aware of this service bulletin from Westerbeke and Universal regarding the use of the correct oil filter, it is possible for the oil filter to be come loose should the wrong filter be used resulting in a trashed engine.

SERVICE BULLETIN
BULLETIN NUMBER: 5
DATE: 2003
MODEL: Universal & Westerbeke Propulsion Engines
SUBJECT: Oil Filter Hazard - 20 mm filter on 3/4" adapater
Over the years Universal diesel marine engines have been fitted with oil filter
adapters (the threaded stud that holds the filter onto the engine) with both
metric and imperial threads. That is why a different filter is specified for some
models that seem very similar to others.
The Universal M12, M2-12, M18, M3-20, M3-20A, M-25, 5421, M25-XP, M25-
XPB, M4-30, M-35, M-35B, M-40B use a metric thread filter (#300209), while
the Universal M15, 5411, M-20, 5416, M-30, and 5424 use an imperial thread
filter (#299381) [The Universal 5432 and the M-40 with a Kubota 1501 block
use a large imperial thread filter (#299584), while the M-40 with a Kubota
1502 block and the M-50 use another large imperial thread filter (#299927)].
The problem stems from the unfortunate coincidence that adapters with 20
mm x 1.5 metric threads and 3/4" NF (16 tpi) imperial threads are so similar in
size that an oil filter with the 20 mm x 1.5 metric threads will screw (albeit
loosely) onto an adapter with 3/4" NF threads. (A filter with 3/4" NF imperial
threads will not screw onto an adapter with 20 mm x 1.5 metric threads.)
Unfortunately, although the metric filter will screw on and tighten down,
because the 2 sizes/types of threads do not mate properly engine oil pressure
may suddenly blow the filter off the adapter at any time while the engine is
running. If the filter blows off under high pressure while the engine is
underway it could cause serious injury or death to anyone close to the
engine, as well as a complete engine failure.
Usually the first indication that a filter with 20 mm metric threads is being
installed on an oil filter adapter with 3/4" imperial threads is that although the
filter will thread on the filter mounting adapter, it will feel very loose compared
to a normal thread. Another indication that the filter is incorrect may be an oil
leak at the rubber filter seal no matter how much the filter is tightened,
because the diameter of the seals on the metric and imperial filters are
slightly different.
All Universal marine engines use the same secondary engine-mounted fuel
filter (#298854), which fits an adapter with 20 mm x 1.5 metric threads... the
same threads used on the metric oil filter adapter, so even if an engine uses
imperial oil filters, it will still require metric fuel filters.
Because the oil filter adapter may be either type of thread regardless of the
engine model due to the installation of new parts during repair work (the
adapter is mounted on the front cover, not the engine block itself, and is
replaced whenever a new cover is installed), when installing a new oil filter
always verify it has the same thread as the filter adapter. One way to check
the adapter is by trying to slip a 3/4" open-end wrench over the adapter
threads. If the 3/4 wrench slips over the threads the adapter is 3/4" NF
imperial, and the oil filter must have 3/4 NF imperial threads. If the 3/4"
wrench will not fit over the threads the adaptor has metric threads, and so the
oil filter must have 20 mm x 1.5 metric threads. Another way to verify the filter
and adapter thread size is to carry a 3/4" NF nut and a 20 mm bolt in your
toolbox to test both adapters and filters. A 3/4" NF imperial nut will not thread
onto a 20 mm x 1.5 adapter, and a 20 mm bolt will not thread into a 3/4" NF
filter.
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Old 01-20-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarelessNavigator View Post
When I was a rookie mechanic a senior mechanic showed me a trick to get oil filters off, even the most stubborn ones using a regular oil filter wrench.

Apply maximum force on the handle without bending or mutilating the handle and just keep that force steady until the filter loosens. Sometimes it takes a while but it will move. I have done that for up to 30 to 60 seconds and even longer to get them to loosen.

Steady force works every time, I have never had to mutilate a filter or filter wrench since being shown that method.

I have been doing that for over twelve years now and I am still using the same filter wrenches after who knows how many filters (in the thousands).
That works well but the trick is to not put them on that tight to begin with. Another trick I have always used is to remove the filter o-ring and coat both sides with fresh oil before installing it, not just the top side. I only need a wrench on about 3-5% of the filters I have installed over the past 30 years or so using this method, also never had one come loose.
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