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post #11 of 45 Old 01-28-2011
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A very thorough analysis of the Oberdorfer 202 cooling pumps.
The only question I have is regarding the grease cap fitting. I don't see that part in the exploded diagram you attached. Does this newer 'N' model pump not have the grease cap like the older models?
I ask because I recently replaced our nearly 10 year old Oberdorfer M202 pump with a new pump sold by Moyer Marine that uses bearings for the shaft instead of the grease cap fitting. The pump I used is the MMI 502 pump shown on this page Moyer Marine Atomic 4 Engine Rebuilding and Parts
I found a lightly used one for $50.

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post #12 of 45 Old 01-28-2011
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Nice post Eherlily... I got a guess about what your wife says... and it's two words with a hyphen....

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Because I tend to be thorough (my wife has another word...), I ordered the major rebuild kit (N202M-15MJK), a shaft (8767), and an extra snap ring, aka. C-Clip (5373).

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post #13 of 45 Old 01-28-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CalebD View Post
A very thorough analysis of the Oberdorfer 202 cooling pumps.
The only question I have is regarding the grease cap fitting. I don't see that part in the exploded diagram you attached. Does this newer 'N' model pump not have the grease cap like the older models?
I ask because I recently replaced our nearly 10 year old Oberdorfer M202 pump with a new pump sold by Moyer Marine that uses bearings for the shaft instead of the grease cap fitting. The pump I used is the MMI 502 pump shown on this page Moyer Marine Atomic 4 Engine Rebuilding and Parts
I found a lightly used one for $50.
The grease cap is used instead of the carbon bushing on the N202M, the N202M-03, and N202M-07. All of these pumps use a 2 bolt flange. The -03, and -07 pumps are used on the Atomic 4, and the -07 is used on the M15 diesel. The -03 is a lower capacity pump (3GPM vs 6GPM @ 1700 RPM).

The N202M-15, and N202-16 have a 5 bolt flange (but you only use 4 bolts) and use the carbon bushing instead of the grease cap. The -15 is used on the Universal M-12, M-18, M-25, M-25XP, M-30 and M-50 engines. The -16 is used on Kubota branded engines.
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post #14 of 45 Old 01-29-2011
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Ok. I'm going to guess that the words SailingDog was looking for were 'anal-retentive'. Of course I'd be going out on a limb.
I'm pretty sure the MMI 502 pump I just installed on our old A4 also has carbon bushings and no grease cap.
I was surprised the first time I saw an Oberdorfer water pump attached to a diesel engine. Not any more.

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post #15 of 45 Old 01-29-2011
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I plead the fifth...

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Ok. I'm going to guess that the words SailingDog was looking for were 'anal-retentive'. Of course I'd be going out on a limb.
I'm pretty sure the MMI 502 pump I just installed on our old A4 also has carbon bushings and no grease cap.
I was surprised the first time I saw an Oberdorfer water pump attached to a diesel engine. Not any more.

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Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

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post #16 of 45 Old 01-29-2011
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I thought that he thought; "very-thorough".
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post #17 of 45 Old 01-29-2011
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Quote:
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I thought that he thought; "very-thorough".
Umm...not quite... but close..

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her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

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post #18 of 45 Old 01-29-2011
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Update

OK - I've rebuilt and reinstalled the pump, and thought that you may be interested in learning from my experience.

Here is an exploded diagram of the pump for reference;

First off; despite what I suspected earlier, my pump did need rebuilding. The outer lip-seal [#8] (the one that seals the water end of the shaft) was leaking, not bad, but it needed to be fixed.

I made the tool recommended in the earlier post from a " allen wrench. I found that the tool was useless. Instead, I used a hammer and a 12d common nail to pound the seals out. I placed the pump engine side down on a block of wood, and pounded away. I slid the shaft out of the pump, inserted the nail, head down, into the pump, engaged the head of the nail on the top of the seal, and pounded down on the point of the nail. I kept re positioning the nail around the seal, and out it, eventually, popped. Note that if you try this, that your follow through with the hammer stroke makes all the difference.

If I were to try this again, I would make some kind of press to draw the seal out. I believe that I could do this with a piece of wood, a 4" long bolt, 3 nuts, and some washers. - Next time...

My attempts to remove these seals, with both the allen tool, and the nail, had the consequence of completely buggering the carbon bearing [#12] . Fortunately, as you know from my earlier post, I had purchased the major rebuild kit, which included one. To remove the carbon bearing, there is no way, other than to use some form of press.

I am fortunate in that my vice opens just wide enough to hold a " block of wood, the pump housing, and a Craftsman 3/8" drive 16mm socket. I positioned the socket in the pump housing with one end against the bearing, and the other end sticking out of the pump housing. I positioned the block of wood in the vice, and then positioned the pump/socket against the block of wood in the vice. The socket touched the face of the jaw of the vice, and the pump housing touched the block of wood. I then tightened the vice, taking care that nothing slipped out of alignment. As the bearing slowly pushed deeper, and out of the pump housing, I needed to swap the standard 16mm socket for a deep socket.

After I had the pump body completely stripped, I cleaned the face where the cover mounts up with a file, and cleaned where the Lip-Seals sit with some steel wool. There was a fair amount of corrosion (green) in here. I then polished the areas that I used steel wool with a brass brush inserted in my dremel. Finally, to help insert the new bearings and seals, I coated the inner surfaces, and the lip seals, and the bearing with molybdenum disulfide grease.


I reassembled the pump, again using the vice as a press and various sockets to insert the new carbon bearing, and the new Lip-Seals. As I recall, a " drive 3/4" socket was used to press the Lip-Seals.

Hope this helps!
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post #19 of 45 Old 02-01-2011
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Whats up with the two seals (water and oil I guess). When I press both into the pump body as indicated on the drawing it seems that the outer seal blocks the drip hole...is this a problem?
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post #20 of 45 Old 02-01-2011
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Two seals - one for the raw water side of the pump, and one for the engine (oil) side of the pump.

The raw water seal should be inserted as deeply into the pump body as it will go - right against the carbon bearing (bushing would be more accurate). The engine seal should be inserted just enough to fully be in the pump, but not so much that it blocks the weep hole.
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