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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance > Engines > Diesel
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  #11  
Old 01-12-2011
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The manual does state to use the same oil in the trannsmission, as in the engine. However, with the newer multiweight oils, I think most people now run something like a 15W40 in the engine and the regular SAE 30 in the transmission. I am no engine or oio expert, but I belive that the use of a 15W40 like Shell Rotella, will protect the cold engine on startup much better than a regular SAE 30, which will be much thicker until it warms up.
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  #12  
Old 10-30-2012
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Re: Basic questions about Yanmar 2GM from a new owner.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shortman View Post
Do not, however, run w/key off because batteries will not charge. Also possible to damage alternator.
My Catalina has a 1983 Yanmar 2GMF diesel engine. When I first purchased my boat about 2 months ago, to start it I would turn the key from 12:00 to about the 1:30 position where it would stay on its own. The alarm would sound and the idiot light on the panel would shine until I hit the start button which would crank the engine. I'd leave the key in that position while the engine was running. To turn off the engine I would pull on the plunger that cuts the fuel. Once the engine stopped running, the alarm would sound and the idiot light would shine. I would turn the key back to 12:00 and the alarm would stop, then I'd remove the key.

Now, however, when I want to start the engine and turn the key to 1:30, no sound is made, the idiot light on the panel does not shine, and when I push the button the engine will not crank. If I turn the key to either the 12:30 or 2:00 position and hold it there, the idiot light shines and the alarm sounds, and I can push the button to start the engine. But the key won't stay at 12:30 or 2:00 on its own. It wants to "rest" at 12:00 or 1:30, so I move it to the 1:30 position and leave it there. When I pull out the plunger to cut the fuel, the engine stops, but the idiot light does not shine and the alarm does not sound.

I'm worried that the way it's behaving now, when the key is at the 1:30 position it's not allowing the batteries to charge (and possibly damaging the alternator).

Any recommendations for troubleshooting / fixing?


Thanks!
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  #13  
Old 10-30-2012
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Re: Basic questions about Yanmar 2GM from a new owner.

Sounds like you need a new key switch. I think you're right about it being "off" when you are running now.
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Re: Basic questions about Yanmar 2GM from a new owner.

Quote:
Originally Posted by scraph View Post
I have a circa-1981 Yanmar 2GM. I have some simple questions about it if anyone would be willing to answer.

1. On the instrument panel, there is a "Water Proof" alarm light. What does this mean and what are possible causes for it?

2. "Charge" alarm ... indicates charging system problem I assume. Other than worst case of bad alternator, is there a common wiring issue associated with this?

3. Water pump pulley doesn't want to stay on. Any online distributors to replace this part? Any upgraded part to eliminate this problem?

4. Is engine entirely mechanical? I set my own idle (and start) with throttle position and secure the engine with the throttle as well. Should the ignition key secure the engine when it is removed (it doesn't)?

Thanks for any information!
It looks like others have answered your questions pretty well. I have only this to add:

Don't pay for the Yanmar manuals, if you need them. You can download a PDF of the Operator Manual and the Shop Manual. They cover the 1GM, 2GM, 3GMD, and 3HM models and all their GMF equivalents. The GMF versions have a heat exchanger and are fresh water cooled while the GM versions are raw water cooled.

Torreson Marine is great, but the prices at Niemiec Marine are usually a little better. They are highly knowledgeable and very friendly. When you call, have your engine serial number ready since there were some variations over the long production run.
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  #15  
Old 11-04-2012
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Re: Basic questions about Yanmar 2GM from a new owner.

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Originally Posted by arf145 View Post
Sounds like you need a new key switch. I think you're right about it being "off" when you are running now.
That was it. I replaced the key switch and it's working great now. Thanks!
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  #16  
Old 11-05-2012
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Re: Basic questions about Yanmar 2GM from a new owner.

Regarding running the engine with the key off - be very wary of this. Your warning lamps and alarms won't operate without the key on (I believe). It would be awful for your engine to overheat (due to pump impeller failure for example) and you not get any warning before the engine seizes - all due to the key being in the wrong position.
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Old 11-06-2012
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Re: Basic questions about Yanmar 2GM from a new owner.

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Originally Posted by Reefpoints View Post
Regarding running the engine with the key off - be very wary of this. Your warning lamps and alarms won't operate without the key on (I believe). It would be awful for your engine to overheat (due to pump impeller failure for example) and you not get any warning before the engine seizes - all due to the key being in the wrong position.
Also, some of the larger engines (like my 4JH2TE) have an electrical stop with a big red button activating a solenoid on the engine (it may have more to do with the distance from control panel to engine than the size of the engine itself), which will NOT operate with the key OFF. So the key has to be ON to STOP the engine (makes one wonder if this is where Microsoft got the idea to put the "Shut down" on the "Start" button.)
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