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Old 01-09-2010
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Basic questions about Yanmar 2GM from a new owner.

I have a circa-1981 Yanmar 2GM. I have some simple questions about it if anyone would be willing to answer.

1. On the instrument panel, there is a "Water Proof" alarm light. What does this mean and what are possible causes for it?

2. "Charge" alarm ... indicates charging system problem I assume. Other than worst case of bad alternator, is there a common wiring issue associated with this?

3. Water pump pulley doesn't want to stay on. Any online distributors to replace this part? Any upgraded part to eliminate this problem?

4. Is engine entirely mechanical? I set my own idle (and start) with throttle position and secure the engine with the throttle as well. Should the ignition key secure the engine when it is removed (it doesn't)?

Thanks for any information!
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Old 01-09-2010
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A decent marine supplier will have Yanmar parts. Torresen marine is a great online source for parts manuals etc.

The alarm light is mainly temperature and maybe low oil pressure. Not really sure what you mean by secure the engine? The key just provides power to the starter. It will run with it off. You need to pull the fuel shut off to kill the engine.

I am pretty sure you can down load an operations manual on line. These engine are great. Make sure they have clean dry fuel and they rarely give any problems. Get used to your fuel/filter system and changes your filters yearly.

You can buy a water pump overhaul kit for about $80, well worth overhauling it. It is easy to do but there are two little c clips on the middle of the shaft that you have to remove to get hte bearings off. They are not obvious.

Gary
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Old 01-09-2010
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Yanmar 2gm20 B panel

The "B" panel has idiot warning lights right to left for:
alternator not charging
low oil pressure
engine over temp
sail-drive seal leak detected

Question to those with sail-drives, have you ever had a leak detected??
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Basic questions about Yanmar 2GM from a new owner.-b-panel.jpg  
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Old 01-12-2010
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If you don't already have one, you might want to get yourself Seloc manual (aftermarket) for $25-30, rather than the official Yanmar service manual from Torresen (~$95). Seloc covers the basics. So unless you're gonna attempt a major rebuild, that's probably all you'll need.

I have a similar vintage 2GM20 in my boat. They're pretty good little engines. A bit big for my little 27 ft, 6700lb boat; probably better suited for a 10000 to 12000 lb boat.
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Old 09-16-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seabee View Post
bought in late summer 1984 watkins 29 with yanmar 2GM and I have read that I should change the cooling U, I have gone to several web and found no ref. to cooling U . site said that I should change this U every 200 hrs, said it was like a banana in the tail pipe and would slow down power of engine ?????? Seabee
Do a search on "mixing elbow" instead of cooling u.
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Old 12-25-2010
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I'm piggybacking

I also have a 2gm. I recently replace the fuel water seperator filter and drained the glass cup of debris, changed the secondary fuel filter, and changed the oil/filter. I am learning everything as I go along but have yet to touch the transmission. How often should I change that fluid? It appears I change it with 30 sae, its a kanzkai km2a. And do I just use my oil change kit that sucks the oil out the dipstick hole of the engine or is there a proper way to do this?

Also, I have been googling this but to no avail. My engine was really clean looking two years ago when I bought the and now is getting bushy with black gook and some surface rusting. Does anyone have a good step 1 2 3 guidance for cleaning it up in place and preventing surface rust for continueing to build?

Thanks
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Last edited by jeffls; 12-25-2010 at 10:07 AM.
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Old 12-25-2010
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Regarding your question about stopping a diesel with the key -- yes its "mechanical". Unlike the spark ignition engine in a car, electric power is not needed to operate. A diesel is stopped by cutting off the fuel. Some do this by pulling the throttle past idle, some have a separate handle that is pulled, and some have an electric solenoid valve. The last will stop if the key is turned to off. The first two will continue to run.
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Old 12-27-2010
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Do not, however, run w/key off because batteries will not charge. Also possible to damage alternator.
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Old 01-03-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffls View Post
I also have a 2gm. I recently replace the fuel water seperator filter and drained the glass cup of debris, changed the secondary fuel filter, and changed the oil/filter. I am learning everything as I go along but have yet to touch the transmission. How often should I change that fluid? It appears I change it with 30 sae, its a kanzkai km2a. And do I just use my oil change kit that sucks the oil out the dipstick hole of the engine or is there a proper way to do this?

Also, I have been googling this but to no avail. My engine was really clean looking two years ago when I bought the and now is getting bushy with black gook and some surface rusting. Does anyone have a good step 1 2 3 guidance for cleaning it up in place and preventing surface rust for continueing to build?

Thanks
yes use same oil and I change both at the same time.Yes you have to extract the oil up and out the trans
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Old 01-03-2011
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Question to those with sail-drives, have you ever had a leak detected??[/quote]

I have owned my 22 1/2 hp 3 gm with saildrive (sd20) for 25 years, never had a leak with original 2 seals
still in place. (tried to convince my Yanmar dealer they should be changed, he says he has customers with
older seals still going strong).
Upper visible seal looks new and I check it often as it is
very accessible. I do test my water sensor that lives between the 2 seals (unscrew sensor and dip into cup
of water and the alarm light should go off if working).
There is a third rubber protection piece that attaches to the outer hull and goes around the saildrive leg, this is not waterproof and keeps out unwanted barnicles and growth.
Install in monohull seems very safe as the saildrive
lives behind and thus protected by the keel.
Cats with saildrives are a bit more exposed.
Hugo
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