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post #11 of 26 Old 01-25-2010
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I don't know much about this at all, as should be obvious from what I am about to say and ask, but - wouldn't it be easier to disconnect the fuel line and then just pump all of the fuel into jerry cans so that the tank is empty, then spray the tank out with high pressure water or something ? I don't know how you dry the tank out afterwards, maybe compressed air ? Or just separate the water from the fuel later ? But it seems like it would be easy then to filter the fuel you took out when you are putting it back into the tank, same as you would if it was new fuel that was suspect. Am I talking crazy ?

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post #12 of 26 Old 01-25-2010
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Seems like truck drivers would have come up with a good way to do this, their trucks have big diesel tanks on them, same as boats. I seriously doubt a trucker would pay someone 300$us to filter their fuel, they must have thought of a better way.

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post #13 of 26 Old 01-25-2010
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Originally Posted by wind_magic View Post
I don't know much about this at all, as should be obvious from what I am about to say and ask, but - wouldn't it be easier to disconnect the fuel line and then just pump all of the fuel into jerry cans so that the tank is empty, then spray the tank out with high pressure water or something ? I don't know how you dry the tank out afterwards, maybe compressed air ? Or just separate the water from the fuel later ? But it seems like it would be easy then to filter the fuel you took out when you are putting it back into the tank, same as you would if it was new fuel that was suspect. Am I talking crazy ?
This is basicly the concept behind cleaning a tank and cleaning the fuel. You can use fuel instead of water to spray the tank. But the OP problem is they don't have an access port and they do have baffles.

There are companies out there with truck mounted equipment to clean tanks
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post #14 of 26 Old 01-25-2010
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I believe if you put the pump in front of the filter you will kill your new pump Do you really want all th junk going tru your new pump?
When out in rough water is when I run my polishing system
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post #15 of 26 Old 01-25-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wind_magic View Post
Seems like truck drivers would have come up with a good way to do this, their trucks have big diesel tanks on them, same as boats. I seriously doubt a trucker would pay someone 300$us to filter their fuel, they must have thought of a better way.
The difference is that trucks burn through the fuel in the tanks almost daily, it doesn't sit in the tank for months/years and give bacteria time to grow. Having owned a fleet of trucks I never had a fuel contamination problem (except when an employee would put gas in a diesel tank ).

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post #16 of 26 Old 01-25-2010
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Andy,

What kind of an gine do you have? The reason I ask is that some of the diesels have a bleed valve and you could do some fuel polishing in a economical way by leaving the bleed valve open a bit.

I have a Universal M25 and I leave the bleed valve open 1/4 turn all the time. Hence when the engine is running the excess fuel is continuously running through the system (hence also the Racor 500FG) and being dumped back into the tank. Yes, this method does not take care of the crud at the bottim of the tank, but I thought I would mention it. I figured this out when I had the engine in my garage and actually saw what leaving the bleed valve open did to the working of the fuel system. Just a thought.
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post #17 of 26 Old 01-25-2010
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Here is what I have learned... If your fuel has sat a while( I don't know long, maybe a year) and you mostly sit on your boat, there is probably gunk in your fuel and If Murphy and his way and he always does you could have a problem. This will only happen when you are 20 miles offshore in 10' seas or trying to dock your boat in stiff winds with the whole marina watching Your motor will quit or at least do no more then idle rpm. You will probably knock off your bow sprit or at least damage your neighbors gold plater. From what I can learn , a proper fuel polishing will not only filters your fuel but cleans the inside of the tank as well This will require decent pressure spraying back in the tank. I can't see how one would accomplish this unless designed from building of the tank So I guess one would have to settle for a good fuel filtering system I have two tanks ,so when my tanks are low, I pump all the fuel to one tank then back to the other tank. That way I hope I have cleaned all the fuel Has worked well so far Now, I am going to try and reattach my bow pulpit
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post #18 of 26 Old 01-25-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaFever2000 View Post
Andy,

What kind of an gine do you have? The reason I ask is that some of the diesels have a bleed valve and you could do some fuel polishing in a economical way by leaving the bleed valve open a bit.

I have a Universal M25 and I leave the bleed valve open 1/4 turn all the time. Hence when the engine is running the excess fuel is continuously running through the system (hence also the Racor 500FG) and being dumped back into the tank. Yes, this method does not take care of the crud at the bottim of the tank, but I thought I would mention it. I figured this out when I had the engine in my garage and actually saw what leaving the bleed valve open did to the working of the fuel system. Just a thought.
Most diesels that I'm familiar with (unfortunately I am not familiar with the Universal) return some fuel to the tank continuously when running through a return line (do Universals not do this?).

We have two tanks and a dual Racor filter with separate supply and return lines to each tank. I can draw from one tank and return to the other if I want, thereby polishing the fuel from one to the other. This does not agitate the tank and remove the gunk in the bottom though unless it's very rough while motoring, and it takes a long time (days) running to move any significant amount of fuel so it's not really very effective at polishing. I could install a pump (other than the electric primer we have) and with the addition of a couple of valves and a little hose I could run it through the filter and polish from one tank to the other.

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post #19 of 26 Old 01-25-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaFever2000 View Post
Andy,

What kind of an gine do you have? The reason I ask is that some of the diesels have a bleed valve and you could do some fuel polishing in a economical way by leaving the bleed valve open a bit.

I have a Universal M25 and I leave the bleed valve open 1/4 turn all the time. Hence when the engine is running the excess fuel is continuously running through the system (hence also the Racor 500FG) and being dumped back into the tank. Yes, this method does not take care of the crud at the bottim of the tank, but I thought I would mention it. I figured this out when I had the engine in my garage and actually saw what leaving the bleed valve open did to the working of the fuel system. Just a thought.
Leaving the bleed valve open will lower your fuel pressure which is not ideal. Diesels already return to tank using an overflow valve. Typically around 90% of the fuel is returned to tank so it is already accomplishing the flushing that you are referring to.

If I was starting with a clean slate, I would filter all my fuel before putting it in the tank and then have 2 filters in parallel (racor makes some units that do this) allowing you to change either filter without shutting down the engine and pay for someone to polish the tanks with the proper equipment only when I had known contamination. Everyone has their own preferences but that is what I would do. It is not particularly applicable to the OP because they have a known issue in one tank and need it polished.
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post #20 of 26 Old 01-25-2010 Thread Starter
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Thanks Folks for thoughtful input - here's some update

My engine is a Ford Lehman 80 Hp Diesel (4D254 - 2712E). I also have the ability to pull from one tank and return to another. I just bought a used Racor 500fg on e-bay for $51.00 so I thought I would split the fuel line going from my tanks to the main RACOR 500fg and have it go to a ball valve that I can open and attach to this new Racor 500fg then to the Walbro marine diesel pump and then back to a fuel tank (through the deck fill port). At 35-40 gph I can leave it run for several hours and turn over the tank several times. I agree that without agitation I will not get the crud off the walls, but hopefully I will be able to clear the lines of crud and at the same time remove any water from the tank. MY thought is to make this mobile unit set up so that I can do both tanks in the spring, and then also a tank after agitation at sea.
The Walbro pump was $120.00, so for about $200 I can make a separate polishing system that will not gunk up my primary Racor (hopefully) and can help to maintain the cleanliness of my fuel and tanks over time.
I guess I am trying to be belt and suspenders since I filter all fuel prior to adding in the tanks, but I know some water condenses during the cold maine winter and also there is some gunk build up at the tank t valves.
Andy
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