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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance > Engines > Diesel
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Diesel This is a forum dedicated to diesel engines and their applicable accessories.


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  #11  
Old 03-07-2010
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my bleeding experience

Quote:
Originally Posted by wwilson View Post
Hi Rik,

No, i'm not a diesel mechanic either. I did have a very good diesel mechanic teach me how to bleed the engine though.

There is no reason to be anxious about loosening the injector (at the cylinder) no harm will be done in any case. I did not mean detach - only loosen a turn or two. The engine's cranking power and the fuel pump's effectiveness are just a whole lot more effective than the little "finger pumps" normally used. And, if the air is in the portion of the fuel line between the finger pump (near the secondary filter) and the injector, the pump has a very hard time expelling it.

Wayne
I wish I'd read this a day ago, Wayne. I had to tighten a gas line fitting at the tank this weekend because there was a leak. This introduced air, of course. I haven't bled the air from my 2QM15 before but I took a swing at it. I loosened the bleed screw on the secondary filter, and started working away with the finger pump. After about 15 odd minutes I'd run out of any strength in my fingers, and I still didn't have fuel coming out. In a bit of frustration, I just cranked the engine at half throttle and it kind of caught a bit. So I stopped, went below, and obviously fuel had been spraying. I tightened the filter bleed screw and went back up to crank. It caught almost right away, kept sputtering and spewing black smoke, then started running. It took about 1 minute for the engine to smooth out, than ran for an hour just fine!

So: I don't know why that little finger pump doesn't work. And also, I'm inclined to believe that on my engine I don't really have to worry about loosening the injectors.

Anybody have any thoughts on this? And an additional question: if I were doing this properly, would I always have to remove both injectors (two cylinders), or would just one be ok?

Final question! prior to getting to the secondary filter, I tried opening the valve at the bottom of my Raccor primary (it's an old one: think it says model 2010. Has the glass bowl attached to a housing, with the filter inside the housing) and nothing really came out except a few drops. So then I unscrewed the top of the filter cap, and it came rushing out. Is that normal: is there a vacuum in there that prohibits the flow?

Thanks for any thoughts.
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  #12  
Old 03-08-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 30Irwin View Post
So: I don't know why that little finger pump doesn't work. And also, I'm inclined to believe that on my engine I don't really have to worry about loosening the injectors.

Anybody have any thoughts on this? And an additional question: if I were doing this properly, would I always have to remove both injectors (two cylinders), or would just one be ok?

Final question! prior to getting to the secondary filter, I tried opening the valve at the bottom of my Raccor primary (it's an old one: think it says model 2010. Has the glass bowl attached to a housing, with the filter inside the housing) and nothing really came out except a few drops. So then I unscrewed the top of the filter cap, and it came rushing out. Is that normal: is there a vacuum in there that prohibits the flow?

Thanks for any thoughts.
30Irwin,

1) The finger pump works when all goes well - which it does most of the time. But in any case it is always a pain in the... index finger.

2) No only loosen one fuel connector on the injector farthest from the secondary fuel filter (on the engine). Don't remove it, we don't want to get any grit or dirt in that. Just loosen it on the threads a turn or so. That way the air can blow by and the whole fuel system gets bled.

3) Let the engine starter do the work when you give up on the finger pump. Often if the engine has stopped with the lobe not positioned properly, then the finger pump will be doing absolutely nothing - you could pump it all day.

4) With only 1 cylinder "off-line" the engine will try to start as it is cranked. A 4 or more cylinder engine will start and hobble along on its working cylinders. Holding the wrench on the fuel connector nut, pull it snug after the engine has forced out its air. This is usually a 2 person job. The engine will then start. Careful what you touch with the wrench. It can be easy to short the 12V causing a startling (usually harmless) spark.

Most people would apply common sense with this technique and NOT run their starter battery dead, or crank the starter motor so long that they fill the exhaust elbow and flood the engine and it is always good to avoid the spinning stuff on the front of the engine, hopefully you've read this far...

5) I have the same Racor: if you opened the water bleed screw (bottom) (while the engine was off) you probably need to loosen the cap on top of the unit to get fuel (and water if any) to flow out the bottom.
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Last edited by wwilson; 03-08-2010 at 11:13 AM.
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  #13  
Old 03-08-2010
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One word of warning on fuel lines... if you overtighten the banjo bolts on a fuel like you can often cause an air leak at the banjo bolt... so be careful about tightening them.
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  #14  
Old 03-08-2010
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Your feedback is extremely comforting, Wayne! Good to know I was on the right track, and thank you for the additional pointers.

I'll watch the tension on that banjo bolt, Sailingdog.

Thank you.
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