Join Date: May 2007
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 7
I have a 2gm20f. I agree that the key/switch is not the problem. All the key is is a switch. In the grand scheme it is not even necessary and can be bypassed as you did.
I also agree that it sounds like either fuel or air. with the 2gm, you need to periodically clean the intake filter. They call it a silencer. if you're looking at the end of the reduction gear end of the engine the silencer is on the left side of the engine. You can easily pull it and wash it in warm, soapy water.
As for filters, you mention a Racor. I assume then you have a two-filter system. I keep an inspection mirror in my tool kit. Used with a flashlight, this allows me to easily monitor the sediment level in the Racor fuel/water separator.
I had a very similar problem soon after I purchased my current boat about three years ago. Engine ran fine at the dock and in-gear at low rpm but as soon as I kicked it up, it would die. the problem was the filter. The prior owner was using a 2-micron filter as a primary. The engine maual and Calder recommend a 10 micron. I have been using 10 micron filters ever since and have had no problems. I replace at the beginning of every season. i also give the bowl a good cleaning.
Filters are cheap and very easy to replace. To do so properly, obtain an old turkey baster to suck the old fuel out of the bowl. Wipe out any sediment, fill the bowl with (clean) diesel fuel, replace the filter and, voila, you're done. By filling the bowl with clean diesel fuel, i find that I don't need to use the manual pump on the side of the engine. I just run it for about 15 minutes to ensure there is no air in the fuel line. If the engine dies, use the manual pump but i have never needed to.
if you do replace your filters, make sure the area is doctor's office clean. you don't want so much as a speck or piece of lint in your fuel.
if this does not help, call for backup.
C&C 30 MkII