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Classic30 07-28-2010 07:29 PM

Help! Leaking Injector Pump
 
1 Attachment(s)
Woo-hoo!! My first diesel engine problem... (I guess the second really, after flat batteries on the weekend would have made us late for the start of the race if the start hadn't been delayed by lack of wind!)

Went down to the boat yesterday to sort out the afore-mentioned electrical issues and noticed diesel in the bilge. Having a closer look at the engine, I noticed diesel dripping out from under one corner of the fuel injector plate-thinghy (under the rusty-looking bolt lower left corner - the paint has flaked off..)

Attachment 6214

The engine is a Volvo MD2040, but the nameplates have been painted over or missing entirely so I have no idea what series it is (either A or B). I haven't had the courage yet to try to take the plate right off because:
a) I don't know what gaskets are required.
b) The injector lines aren't very flexible and I don't want to stuff anything else.
c) I don't have a Workshop Manual or even know how to get one.

Any ideas how best to fix this? Is this likely to be just a gasket thing or is there something else going on?

Thanks,

tdw 07-28-2010 08:41 PM

Cameron,
Check your email. Workshop manual is on the way.
Cheers
Andrew

ps -other than that...don't ask me I a mechanically inept, last time I changed the spark plugs on a car I had to have the thing towed..something to do with putting the leads back on in the wrong order and stuffing up the timing.

pps- surely you can hand crank a 2040 ?

Classic30 07-28-2010 09:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tdw (Post 626562)
Cameron,
Check your email. Workshop manual is on the way.
Cheers
Andrew

Thanks, Andrew - I'm most grateful.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tdw (Post 626562)
ps -other than that...don't ask me I a mechanically inept, last time I changed the spark plugs on a car I had to have the thing towed..something to do with putting the leads back on in the wrong order and stuffing up the timing.

pps- surely you can hand crank a 2040 ?

Ahh..Nope. And there are dire warnings all through the docs about trying to start the engine without firing up the glow-plugs first. :(

I'm a little mechanically-challenged myself too, I'm afraid. It seems from the manual you sent it should be as simple as taking the cover off and renewing the gasket BUT there are shims under there that are apparently pretty critical and with words like 'correct torque' they make it sound about as easy as doing the cylinder block!! :eek:

I've got a call out for a mechanic.. Crap.. Warranty expired last month so that's more $$$ out the window... Oh, the joys of owning a boat.

erps 07-28-2010 09:54 PM

Didja try tightening the rusty bolt? I would check to see if it's loose before I started tearing things apart and replacing gaskets. Just saying.....

tdw 07-28-2010 10:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hartley18 (Post 626571)
Thanks, Andrew - I'm most grateful.



Ahh..Nope. And there are dire warnings all through the docs about trying to start the engine without firing up the glow-plugs first. :(

I'm a little mechanically-challenged myself too, I'm afraid. It seems from the manual you sent it should be as simple as taking the cover off and renewing the gasket BUT there are shims under there that are apparently pretty critical and with words like 'correct torque' they make it sound about as easy as doing the cylinder block!! :eek:

I've got a call out for a mechanic.. Crap.. Warranty expired last month so that's more $$$ out the window... Oh, the joys of owning a boat.

wow....I just checked 40HP....hooley dooley.....what does your old girl displace ? Raven has a 24hp bukh which is good for around 6 knots and she is nearly 7t. We could water ski behind her with 40hp. :eek::laugher:eek: I figured yours would be smaller and knowing we can handcrank ours I just deduced...incorrectly as it turns out.

I'm guessing btw that those bolts/nuts should have been checked at some time in the past and have just worked themselves a bit loose. If the engine is only just out of warranty I find it hard to believe that the gasket is shot.

I wonder why such a new engine would have been repainted ??

Classic30 07-28-2010 11:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tdw (Post 626583)
wow....I just checked 40HP....hooley dooley.....what does your old girl displace ? Raven has a 24hp bukh which is good for around 6 knots and she is nearly 7t. We could water ski behind her with 40hp. :eek::laugher:eek: I figured yours would be smaller and knowing we can handcrank ours I just deduced...incorrectly as it turns out.

Oh, she gits along alright! :D

I'm not exactly sure what the displacement is (6.14 tonnes Thames Measurement if that helps - but it probably doesn't) although it must be up around the 6 ton mark - or even more. She started life with a Henry-Meadows 15Hp clunker and I do know now why the PO chose a 40HP donk: Going in and out of the pen and anywhere else it's kinda tight, it's nice to be able to throttle up and git going before the wind pushes the bow around.. and she'll do hull speed at 2500rpm, with more on tap if you're running late for the start! :)

Quote:

Originally Posted by tdw (Post 626583)
I'm guessing btw that those bolts/nuts should have been checked at some time in the past and have just worked themselves a bit loose. If the engine is only just out of warranty I find it hard to believe that the gasket is shot.

I wonder why such a new engine would have been repainted ??

It was a re-co the PO purchased in Sydney and had frieghted down and installed. They just sprayed the entire thing Volvo Green and then proceeded to scrape it all off whilst installing it.

You're both probably right - it may just be a loose bolt - but the books say use a Torque Wrench set to 9.9Nm and that's beyond my tool-box capaciuty I'm afraid.

Did I check if it was just a bolt loose? Nope! Dummy!! (insert smack head smiley) :(

tdw 07-29-2010 12:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hartley18 (Post 626602)
Oh, she gits along alright! :D

I'm not exactly sure what the displacement is (6.14 tonnes Thames Measurement if that helps - but it probably doesn't) although it must be up around the 6 ton mark - or even more. She started life with a Henry-Meadows 15Hp clunker and I do know now why the PO chose a 40HP donk: Going in and out of the pen and anywhere else it's kinda tight, it's nice to be able to throttle up and git going before the wind pushes the bow around.. and she'll do hull speed at 2500rpm, with more on tap if you're running late for the start! :)



It was a re-co the PO purchased in Sydney and had frieghted down and installed. They just sprayed the entire thing Volvo Green and then proceeded to scrape it all off whilst installing it.

You're both probably right - it may just be a loose bolt - but the books say use a Torque Wrench set to 9.9Nm and that's beyond my tool-box capaciuty I'm afraid.

Did I check if it was just a bolt loose? Nope! Dummy!! (insert smack head smiley) :(


The loose bolt may not be obviously loose. If it was last touched when installed it could have just loosened off a tadge, just enough to allow the gasket to unseat. You could of course hire a torque wrench from someone like Kennards.

Trouble with gaskets though is that once they leak you often need to take 'em off and dry them out. Depends on the type of gasket I believe.

hellosailor 07-29-2010 02:28 PM

9.9 newtons meter = 7.30186528 foot pounds according to Google.

That's not a lot of force, you'd tighten the lug nuts on a compact car to about 75 foot pounds, by comparison. So...seven foot pounds would be "use a small short wrench and a limp wrist or ask a four year old to do it". Or hold your hand right over the bolt--not at the end of the handle--and tighten it about as much as the lid of a jelly jar.

(Well then again, if you buy a torque wrench they're not very expensive these days, and last a lifetime if you treat them right.)

If the one came that loose, it might just pay to buy whatever gaskets are needed, remove and retorque the entire cover so you know they are ALL seated properly. The copper tubing should have enough flex in it to allow that as long as you move gently. If it doesn't--then it was about to fail anyway. Copper work-hardens, better to fail at the dock than under way.

sawingknots 07-29-2010 04:34 PM

i'm not familiar with that engine,but is the leak coming from under the pump retainer or from the bolt hole its-self,if so and just tightening it doesn't stop the leak you could try a copper washer

Classic30 07-29-2010 06:38 PM

Thanks, HS - I'll have a closer look at it when I'm down there next and try your suggestion. I'm not sure where to get Volvo parts around here, but these engines are pretty common (old Perkins) so I should be able to find someone close by! :)

Quote:

Originally Posted by sawingknots (Post 626830)
i'm not familiar with that engine,but is the leak coming from under the pump retainer or from the bolt hole its-self,if so and just tightening it doesn't stop the leak you could try a copper washer

The leak is coming from under the plate. There is a shim under there that controls the injector timing - hence my reluctance to just hoe in with a spanner - and the leak appears to be around the shim.

I suspect I'll find it's the gasket that's gone and the bolt isn't loose at all and if that's the case, overtightening to stop the leak will just stuff things up further.

I'll play around with it over the weekend, but if I get into trouble I've got a mechanic coming out early next week (it's about time for a service anyways) and will post the outcome.

Cheers,


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