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im a diesel dummy!!

5K views 20 replies 15 participants last post by  NICHOLSON58 
#1 ·
I just bought a 1977 Chrysler 26 equipped with a volvo penta MD 5B/110S!(i know they dont have the best reputation!) I was told it ran 3 years ago, but it has been sitting idle since. I am fairly mechanicaly inclined, however I know almost nothing about these diesel engines. I can get the engine to crank over but it doesnt start. I have messed with the cold start lever on the head, and it still wont fire. The control panel has a key with acc. and on positions and when you turn the key further it cranks as would be expected. There are two mechanical levers on the instrument panel that pull out, moving levers on the engine via wire. There is also an elecric switch with i believe three positions. I dont know what any of these controls are for. So if anyone can help i would greatly appreciate it. BTW i have blead the fuel lines and it seems to be getting fuel.
 
#4 ·
One of the levers is probably an engine kill lever, which will prevent the engine from starting if it is pulled out. I would check to see if the engine is getting fuel, air and cooling water. If it is, you should be all set.

Start by pushing the two levers in and trying to start it.

BTW, if the boat is on the hard, DO NOT USE A HOSE TO PROVIDE COOLING WATER. If the boat is on the hard, you want to use a bucket with a hose providing water to the bucket, and then put a hose from the engine's raw water cooling intake side in the bucket.
 
#8 ·
volvo penta md5b

thanks for the help guys, but all this thing does is crank and crank but doesnt start. It seems to be trying but just doesnt quite make it. Pretty sure im gonna have to pull it and rebuild. I kind of figured i would when i bought the boat, but i guess i just hoped it would be easier. Any help or guidance on where to get rebuild kits or parts for this engine would be helpful.:)
 
#18 ·
Pretty sure im gonna have to pull it and rebuild. I kind of figured i would when i bought the boat, but i guess i just hoped it would be easier. Any help or guidance on where to get rebuild kits:)
1) If you don't know how it's supposed to operate, then why would you even think about rebuilding it yourself? Before you rebuild, in my opinion, you should know how it works and have manuals with the various clearance specs, etc. as well at the parts for the engine.

2) Get the manuals and books that have been suggested. But to save a lot of agony, why don't you get an experienced diesel mechanic to take a look at it? It might be money well spent and you'll learn a lot from talking with him.
 
#9 ·
Any engine that hasn't been run in several years has to be suspect. I'd strongly second the idea of getting Calder's book, or something similar, because diesel engines are just different from gasoline engines. Even the good ones have their own nasty problems, and all it takes it some air in the fuel lines to make it never start. And then, you can't just get the air out, there is usually only one "right" way to purge any one engine and fuel system. If it uses copper crush washers on the fuel system, you'd never guess that those are "use once and discard" and they MUST be replaced if you bleed the system at those points.

Rebuild? Maybe not, but you really want the engine manual, and a good book on diesels in general, to get you past those queer little quirks that diesels have. Before you pull anything apart!
 
#10 ·
Here is one diesel lightweights opinion.
Spray WD 40 onto the air intake for the engine (no more then about 2 seconds worth). Now try cranking the engine. If it tries to start then you have proved you have the compression the engine needs to run and you are probably not getting fuel into the cylinders. If it doesn't effect it then maybe the kill switch is on/off.
WD 40 is 'the' starter fluid for diesels.
A diesel engine just needs compression, clean fuel and air to run. Of course it needs cooling water too if you want to run it for more then a few minutes.
Get the Calder book if you want to keep your diesel running.
 
#11 ·
diesel dummy

Thanks so much for the great input. I was kind of thinking that pulling the engine might be a good idea anyway. there seems to be a signifigant leak from the main seal when i am cranking it, and if i want to feel confident in the engine when i am at sea, maybe taking the time to rebuild might be worth it. Im not in a major hurry to get this thing going and the engine looks easy enough to pull. What are your thoughts? btw, I am definitely going to get that diesel book!
 
#12 ·
diesel dummy

I tried the WD40 thing and the motor changed noise and smoked a little with some extended cranking and even seemed to try to start once but, just petered out after about 3 seconds. I have blead eveywhere there seems to be to bleed, but after reading some posts i guess there are particular ways to bleed each engine. I am at a loss, hence the title diesel dummy. Thats why i am leaning towards a rebuild, cause it would force me to learn about this engine and after im done, ill know what i have. dont get me wrong if in the meantime some of your very helpful responses works and she fires up and runs like a top, im sure ill be more than happy to put off the rebuild. I continue to appreciate all of your imput!
 
#13 ·
I'm very ignorant about diesels. The extent of my experience is owning a Mercedes years ago, and the Universal 21 in my Catalina 36.

One thing that hasn't been mentioned yet, does your engine have a glow-plug pre-heat? In the two engines that I've used, both required the glow-plugs to be pre-heated for 10-15 seconds in order for the engine to start. If this didn't happen, the engine would never start.

Dave
 
#16 · (Edited)
Diesels actually need "less" to run that a gas engine.
1)fuel (at the right time)
2)compression
3) air, lots of air.
ok, lets make some assumptions.
Lets assume you've used fresh diesel, and changed the fuel filters.
Lets also assume, you bled the system, and used the "manual engine primer" might be a rubber squeezie thing in the fuel line, or, a lever mounted on the fuel pump.

Lets also assume you have flowing fuel. (the fuel valve open?) supply is able to be pumped via pressure to the injector, so check and make sure you're getting fuel past the pump.

because the wd-40 test kinda sorta worked ( a couple of firings....IS working)

lets continue down that path.
stop at a truckstop or auto supply, buy some starting fluid.
squirt a LITTLE. no more than a pfft, pfft. Dear god don't treat it like your wife and her white rain, lots of metal bits will come unattached in a violent fashion.
If you have compression, the motor SHOULD fire and run a second or two, or longer if the fuel supply is flowing well.
If it dies, repeat. (remember, just a "pfft" of starting fluid.)
It could take a number of these starts until she fires off on her own and continues to run. The engine will not like starting fluid. Its a violent eruption. Again, don't use too much.

If after a half a dozen of these attempts, and its still hasn't wheezed along, you need to look at other places.

Look first at air supply, is it free flowing? or is there a shut off plate under the aircleaner (on some engines, this is how you shut them down, by cutting off the air supply)

Then look at the fuel supply circuit.
Is fuel getting ... first to the fuel pump.
If so, is fuel getting out of the fuel pump and up to the injector. (unfasten the line to the injector,) fuel should spurt out of that line. when you're turning over the engine. If not have the pump checked.
If so, then, remover the injector, have it checked.

Theres no logical reason to rebuild a motor that doesn't need it.

the front main seal should be able to be replaced in situ. Worry about that after you get it running. It may "loosen" and seal after it gets some warm oil next to it for awhile.

"cold start lever"
this allows some of the compression to escape in cooler ambient weather. if the ambient is say, over 60F, leave it closed. (have a strong battery and make sure you don't work the starter too hard.)

This "should" help.
 
#21 ·
Check the compression. If it is in spec you will probably not need a re-build.

Next look for the air bleed. If the injectors are working in air you will wear out the starter before it pops. I don't know your's but mine has both manual and electric pre-charge pumps. This was sill not sufficient to overcome a tiny leak in an induction fitting - nothing but air. Open the fuel rail at each injector and pump out all air.

Diesel is pretty simple in the end. Fuel + Compression = bang. Make sure you know where the fuel/engine kill is or you will not be able to stop it. (Experience)
 
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