Yanmar 2QM20H - now what have I done?
Hi all. I have an Irwin Citation 34 with Yanmar 2QM20H engine.
This is a "Now what have I done" question.
What I did:
Today, I went out and replaced the electric bilge pump hose from the
pump, through the engine room to the thru hull port read side. I took
the old one out, put a new one in - same route.
It worked well - I am really please and the old hose REALLY REALLY STUNK!
OK - it was hot as blazes (34C - 93F and sunny - very little breeze). I
was looking forward to going out to the mooring and going swimming.
Turned the key - no warning lights, no squeal from the buzzer - no
results when pushing the start button.
OK - I know I have done something - its just an engine, I have knocked
off a wire or something. If you have an IC34 - you know the amount of
room where I was running the hose. I did a bunch of eye ball trouble
shooting and finally I took the cover off the little fuse box on the
port back area of the engine - just aft of the aft injector, and the 20A
fuse was blown. Fortunately, Irwin made sure there was a spare fuse in
the box lid. I put the new fuse in, turned the key - buzz, lights and
the engine started. The tach did not work and within minutes the
alternator light came on. Knowing you don't need electricity to run a
diesel - just need it to start it, I turned off all radios etc, put the
batteries on one battery and motored to the mooring. I had my swim and
a beer, felt better, and looked at the fuse - sure enough - blown again.
What have I shorted out? OK - all you armchair mechanics - where do I
start when I get to the boat tomorrow afternoon to start trouble
shooting. And yes - I am going to buy a box of fuses.
Well, I am surprised by the lack of guesses or advice.
I went to the boat yesterday and started a visual, based upon what didn't work.
1 - I knew I had blown two 20A fuses - so something was shorted out
2 - I knew the tach was not working
Looking at the tach sensor, there are two wires going to it, and one had been knocked loose and was laying against the metal part of the block. Yes, sa ys he, that could cause a fuse to blow.
I squeezed the terminal a bit, re-attached it, secured it in place with "Rescue Tape", replaced the fuse and all is well.
Tach works, buzzer buzzes, instrument lights light up and the alternator alternates!
Always learning something.
Mazel tov. Now put a proper crimp connection on so you don't do it again.
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