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post #1 of 7 Old 02-25-2011 Thread Starter
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Yanmar KM3V "V" Drive

I have a Yanmar 3gmd engine with the KM3V "V" drive. Would anyone know how to align the coupling? Also, if I want to pull the engine, how do I disconnect the shaft from the engine.

It looks like the shaft comes through the transmission then makes the connection to the coupling. Looks like to pull the engine I would need to slide the propeller shaft about a foot to be able to pull the engine. Is this right?
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post #2 of 7 Old 05-12-2011
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I just did my KM3V on a 3GM30F. To align the engine to the shaft adjust the engine mounting bolts so that the KM3V flange and the prop shaft flange are parallel within 0.004 in or so measured at the outer edge before pulling it tight. Same as regular drive with a little mental twisting due to the backwards mounting of the engine.

In my boat (Vancouver 36) the shaft comes out the back (of the drive) toward the front (of the boat) thru a opening. It won't come out the back (of the boat) with the rudder installed. The old prop flange wouldn't come off so it had to be cut and replaced. Bad scene. Good opportunity to replace the cutlass.
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post #3 of 7 Old 05-12-2011 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldsalt38 View Post
I just did my KM3V on a 3GM30F. To align the engine to the shaft adjust the engine mounting bolts so that the KM3V flange and the prop shaft flange are parallel within 0.004 in or so measured at the outer edge before pulling it tight. Same as regular drive with a little mental twisting due to the backwards mounting of the engine.

In my boat (Vancouver 36) the shaft comes out the back (of the drive) toward the front (of the boat) thru a opening. It won't come out the back (of the boat) with the rudder installed. The old prop flange wouldn't come off so it had to be cut and replaced. Bad scene. Good opportunity to replace the cutlass.

I think my engine is reversed mounted. There is a hole in the transmission that the prop shaft comes through. Then it looks like that is whre the coulpling is. could your prop shaft go either direction on the transmission?
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post #4 of 7 Old 12-08-2013
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Re: Yanmar KM3V "V" Drive

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Originally Posted by Oldsalt38 View Post
I just did my KM3V on a 3GM30F. To align the engine to the shaft adjust the engine mounting bolts so that the KM3V flange and the prop shaft flange are parallel within 0.004 in or so measured at the outer edge before pulling it tight. Same as regular drive with a little mental twisting due to the backwards mounting of the engine.

In my boat (Vancouver 36) the shaft comes out the back (of the drive) toward the front (of the boat) thru a opening. It won't come out the back (of the boat) with the rudder installed. The old prop flange wouldn't come off so it had to be cut and replaced. Bad scene. Good opportunity to replace the cutlass.


Oldsalt38 -

Sure could use your help. I also have the same setup as you on my cal40. I am in the process of replacing the cutless bearing and shaft seal. The issue I am running into, (i Think) is pulling the shaft out itself. I was able to pull the shaft coupling off today with a puller. But the v-drive coupling I am researching. So my question is, do I need to remove the transmission coupling? Or does the shaft just slide out the rear or can it be puller forward with the prop removed without removing the transmission coupling.

Thank in advance
dale
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post #5 of 7 Old 12-08-2013
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Re: Yanmar KM3V "V" Drive

Dale.. that post is 2 years old and Oldsalt hasn't been back since.

On our V drive (Hurth V150) the coupling was at the forward end of the gearbox, if you removed the coupling half from the shaft then the shaft slid back through the transmission coupling and out of the boat.. of course you needed enough room for the shaft to drop out before hitting the rudder, unless there's a deliberate offset for that.

If this is a Kanzaki drive I'm not sure how similar it is, but I can't imagine you'd need to remove the tranny coupling half. The bigger question will be the room to pull the shaft once the zincs are off it. From drawings it looks like you'd be in luck there (shaft looks shorter than distance to rudder)

Accordingly, if you have room in the cabin space I don't see any reason why the shaft wouldn't pull into the boat with the prop removed (ours would have) - in which case you wouldn't have needed to pull the coupling half either...

Ron

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Last edited by Faster; 12-08-2013 at 10:25 PM.
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post #6 of 7 Old 12-09-2013 Thread Starter
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Re: Yanmar KM3V "V" Drive

I have the Yanmar KM3V "v" drive. The shaft can slide both ways through the transmission- Either into your boat or out the stern- depends on how much room you have. A few months ago the shaft to coupling (transmission coupling) on my boat began to loosen up (apparently now set screw had ever been installed). By removing the set screw and coupling bolts, and key, you should be able to slide the shaft free of the coupling. I found the PO of my boat had drilled a 2 inch diameter hole in some cabinets so the shaft could be pulled inside the boat and into that 2 inch hole. Always wondered what the hole was for prior to examining the prop shaft closely.
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post #7 of 7 Old 12-09-2013
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Re: Yanmar KM3V "V" Drive

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Originally Posted by Faster View Post
Dale.. that post is 2 years old and Oldsalt hasn't been back since.

On our V drive (Hurth V150) the coupling was at the forward end of the gearbox, if you removed the coupling half from the shaft then the shaft slid back through the transmission coupling and out of the boat.. of course you needed enough room for the shaft to drop out before hitting the rudder, unless there's a deliberate offset for that.

If this is a Kanzaki drive I'm not sure how similar it is, but I can't imagine you'd need to remove the tranny coupling half. The bigger question will be the room to pull the shaft once the zincs are off it. From drawings it looks like you'd be in luck there (shaft looks shorter than distance to rudder)

Accordingly, if you have room in the cabin space I don't see any reason why the shaft wouldn't pull into the boat with the prop removed (ours would have) - in which case you wouldn't have needed to pull the coupling half either...


Thanks for the information. I have the rudder removed so pulling at the aft side will be a non issue. The tranny coupling is turning with the shaft so there must be some corrosion buildup so I will tap it loose and move it aft...

Thanks for your assistance and advice it was a big help...


Dale
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