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post #11 of 19 Old 03-15-2011
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There are different versions of cooling systems on the 4.108.
Some uses a header tank, some a 'bowman' type type. It might be easier if we knew which type you have??
Se this one as reference:
http://www.alberg37.org/Project%20DB...4-108parts.pdf
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post #12 of 19 Old 03-15-2011
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Walt,

Not sure whether or not you removed the fresh water circulating pump or not. If so, be advised that on the 4-108 there's a thin steel plate which sits between the pump mounting face and the engine. This plate has a gasket on each side of it, and they are NOT IDENTICAL. An island mechanic once replaced my circulating pump and used identical gaskets, thereby blocking an important port and causing overheating.

I wound up flying a good friend/expert mechanic down from the states, who quickly identified this and several other problems causing the overheating.

Good luck.

Bill
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post #13 of 19 Old 03-15-2011 Thread Starter
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new question. when i blow thru fresh water hose conn, it runs free thru the heat exchanger. also, same thing with the raw water (tubes) side. can i assume the exchanger is working correctly?
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post #14 of 19 Old 03-15-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walt61 View Post
new question. when i blow thru fresh water hose conn, it runs free thru the heat exchanger. also, same thing with the raw water (tubes) side. can i assume the exchanger is working correctly?
No!
1: You have to pressure test to see that there are no leakage between the two sections (salt-fresh water). Block the outlet, pump up about 25PSI. It should stay and not drop!!
Do this on both fresh and saltwater side.
2: If sludge/salt-build-up in the tubes the capacity of the heat exchange may have been reduced too much.
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post #15 of 19 Old 03-15-2011
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Why not follow the procedure in the perkins manual for bleeding the air out of the engine? 2 plugs on the top of the head, One at the back, behind the injectors, and the other on the opposite front corner, and lastly the one on the header tank. Fill header tank until coolant appears at the rear plug, replace plug, add more coolant till the coolant is at the top of the front plug, and finally close off the header tank vent, when coolant reaches it. Oh and don't forget to put the thermostat back in, it is there for a reason. The thermostat should start to open at 156f and fully opens at 188f, and should be .281 when fully open. If you decide to pressurize the thing to 25 psi, you could generate a new problem since the rad cap releases at 15 psi, or less, so I doubt it will like 25 psi.

Why, why, why?
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post #16 of 19 Old 03-16-2011 Thread Starter
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the results are in!! tks to everybody so much for their collective help. i removed a hose that once led to a water heater. installed two plugs and replaced the whole shebang. turns out the exchanger is fine, as is the oil cooler and thermostat. so....;looks, at this point as tho the culprit was air lock in that hose. tks again everyone!!!
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post #17 of 19 Old 03-22-2011
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what about if when you put the heat exchanger back on you switched the hoses and have the water going through the wrong way. if you could find somone else with the 108 you could compare?
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post #18 of 19 Old 03-23-2011 Thread Starter
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e37 duff. tks for the input. found, what i now believe, was the problem all along. forget about the hose i wrote about, i chkd the the brand new rebuilt raw water pump and the brand new impeller was toast. replaced, ran the engine and it runs at 180 degs for an hour. have no idea why the impeller would have mashed up after only one hour run time. had water all along. anyway, tks all for your help
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post #19 of 19 Old 03-23-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walt61 View Post
have no idea why the impeller would have mashed up after only one hour run time. had water all along. anyway, tks all for your help
Have a look at your exhaust back pressure. I used to have that problem on my SO37 and Yanmar.
Two things caused it:
Jeanneau had mounted the sea water strainer on the suction side, and it turned out it had a leak due to a too hard tightened hose clamp. This made the exhaust back pressure 'shot off' the impeller wings at start-up before the pump/system got filled with water. The change from the std Yanmar 6 wing impeller to a Jabsco 10 wing really solved the problem.
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