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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance > Engines > Diesel
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  #11  
Old 09-07-2011
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I know how to make it rain, try to work on your boat. I'm glad I started this thread because I learned a few things. One I was going to hook up the garden hose to the water intake, turn the hose on and crank the engine. I think that would have been a bone head move because flooding the cylinders with water from the exhaust would have happened. Also I should concentrate on just starting the engine instead of spending time to drain and clean the tank. Its a bit difficult to purchase boat parts in the hills of east Tennessee but Autozone did come through with a cross reference for the fuel filter. And Fram does have an oil filter that fits my Yanmar. Tonight I decompressed the engine, there are two levers, put a socket, 1&1/16", to the nut up front and turned the engine over several times while attempting to spray fogging oil into the air intake. Then I hooked up a new battery, turned the key on and was greeted with a siren. Turns out that is normal. Pushed the start button and the engine turned over. The decompression levers are still open. Tomorrow, if it doesn't rain Ill get a gallon of fresh diesel, finish changing the oil and try to start the engine for real.

The foam in the air cleaner falls apart when touched. Its back to autozone for more parts.

Thanks to all who suggested the proper course of action.
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  #12  
Old 09-08-2011
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Meme, Autozone is a good source for oil and oil filters, but not for your engine parts. Your Yanmar should have Yanmar parts. Check the Torreson Marine web site. Search by engine manufacturer and model and you will find parts listings for your 2GM20. Autozone isn't going to have them. Yanmar parts are distributed on a regional basis, and the dealers can't sell out of region, so you need to find your regional supplier. Those I am familiar with are Torreson in the North Central US (Michigan base), Bay Shore Marine in the Mid-Atlantic (Annapolis) and Ideal Marine in the Southeast (Orange Beach, AL). Don't know where you are, but you ought to look yours up. Yanmar parts folks are usually sharp and can fix you up.

You can take that air filter out and toss it if the air is good in your engine room (no dust and dirt) and run the engine without it with just the cover in place until you can get one. If you have dirt daubers or other nesting insects in your area, just put a zip lock with a rubber band around the intake horn when you aren't trying to start or run the engine. Remember to take it off before starting the engine.
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Old 09-08-2011
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Sounds like you have a grip on things .. FWIW any diesel I have worked on that has been sitting for years first and fore most pour a few gallons of diesel IN the eng everywhere , dissconnect fuel lines (remove injectore if you want not allways nesserary makes things eazer on batt & starter)

then run the eng over a bunch if it sticks leave it sit for hours then come back and bump it again ( I have even unstuck many engs this way some have taken a week or longer) if it turns over good then just run the eng over till everything gets lubed good.
Then drain it all put in oil run it over for as long as your batts will take , drain oil out , add new oil again , bleed injector lines and then start it .

This has never failed me and saved many ring rebuilds over the years , yes it seems troublesome but it works..
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Old 09-08-2011
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Just my 2 cents worth. You have alot of good advise in this thread.

Run your water pickup out of a bucket not from a pressured hose.
Have a fresh fuel supply connected to the lift pump.
Make sure you have oil pressure before starting
Leave your air filter off the manifold and have a piece of plywood that you can shut off the air supply. If the injection pump governor is stuck open or goes into full fuel position. The engine can rev out and destroy itself.
Check that the engine is pumping water after starting.


Good luck, Dave.
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Old 09-08-2011
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Dave the advice on the stuck governor and how to shut the engine down is much appreciated. Thanks.
How do I know if the engine has oil pressure prior to starting? Will the oil warning lamp go off while cranking with the decompression levers set to open?
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On the Yanmar 2GM there is an oil pressure sender for the light located hear the oil filter. You can get a test oil pressure gauge and hose from the parts supply store. You remove the oil pressure sender and screw in the test guage. You should get around 20psi cranking the engine.
When you crank the engine with the decompression lever engauged it holds the valves open that is the only difference. The oil pump pumps and the light will go out. The injectors are putting in fuel so you will have some unburnt fuel in the engine and exhaust that will burn off after the engine starts causing white smoke and possible knocking. It is best to pull the stop lever and decompression lever if spinning the engine over to test for oil pressure.

Usefull links
Yanmar 2GM20 - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Oil filter and pressure switch
File:Oil filter.JPG - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Here is a link for a free Yanmar Service Manual
http://j30.us/files/yanmar-manual.pdf

Dave.
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Also if you are cranking the engine over for extended periods you have to drain the water lift muffler. When you spin the engine over and there is no compression to push the water thru the muffler water can build up in the system backing up into the engine.

Last edited by ozziedave01; 09-09-2011 at 11:53 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old 09-09-2011
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Originally Posted by hellosailor View Post

But in any event, pull them and put some lubricant (marvel mystery oil?) in each cylinder, hand crank a few times, to get some lube oil on the cylinder walls and rings before you fire it up.
Bingo! MMO in the cylinders but let it sit for a few days then turn by hand and extract the MMO from the cylinders into rags or suck out with an oil extraction pump.. We used to do this on seized engines that sat for a while and never once had a ring issue. You want to do each cylinder at bottom dead center so the entire cylinder wall gets coated with MMO, pretty easy on a 2 cylinder. There may be surface rust on the cyl walls and starting her right up may polish them smooth with the skim coat or rust. You don't want to destroy the factory cross hatching....
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Old 09-09-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TQA View Post
Steps 1,2 & 3 good.

Do not touch the injectors, do nothing except get fresh diesel to the injector pump and bleed the pump.

Turn the engine over with the decompressor pulled until the oil pressure guage moves. Shut off decompressor set throttle to full and see if she starts most will start within 10 to 30 seconds if not bleed at injectors by cracking the pipe nuts while cranking and try again.

Have someone at the throttle to pull it back when it starts.

I have started a number of engines that have lain untouched for years either in scrapyards or in military stores and have NEVER had to overhaul injectors, thrown away a couple of seized ones yes but overhaul no.
+1 to TQA's response - if it rotates freely, don't mess with any parts - change the fluids etc. as posted here and try to start it - if it doesn't start, or runs poorly, THEN start working on the hard parts. The Perkins in my current boat had lain unused for years but started on the second crank and ran fine.

As an example of how incredibly easily a diesel can start, I once took delivery of a new, one lung Yanmar. I was unfamiliar with small diesels at the time and was examining it on its shipping skid. I determined it had oil in the crankcase and was rotating it with the hand crank while holding the compression release lever.

When I let the lever go, the engine started, just on the assembly oil in the cylinder! Talk about a scramble to decompress it!
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Old 09-09-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maine Sail View Post
Bingo! MMO in the cylinders but let it sit for a few days then turn by hand and extract the MMO from the cylinders into rags or suck out with an oil extraction pump.. We used to do this on seized engines that sat for a while and never once had a ring issue. You want to do each cylinder at bottom dead center so the entire cylinder wall gets coated with MMO, pretty easy on a 2 cylinder. There may be surface rust on the cyl walls and starting her right up may polish them smooth with the skim coat or rust. You don't want to destroy the factory cross hatching....
How would you extract the oil from the cylinder? Do you need to remove a fuel injector?
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