Starting a diesel that sat for 18 years. - Page 3 - SailNet Community
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post #21 of 37 Old 09-09-2011
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Originally Posted by ozziedave01 View Post
On the Yanmar 2GM there is an oil pressure sender for the light located hear the oil filter. You can get a test oil pressure gauge and hose from the parts supply store. You remove the oil pressure sender and screw in the test guage. You should get around 20psi cranking the engine.
When you crank the engine with the decompression lever engauged it holds the valves open that is the only difference. The oil pump pumps and the light will go out. The injectors are putting in fuel so you will have some unburnt fuel in the engine and exhaust that will burn off after the engine starts causing white smoke and possible knocking. It is best to pull the stop lever and decompression lever if spinning the engine over to test for oil pressure.

Usefull links
Yanmar 2GM20 - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Oil filter and pressure switch
File:Oil filter.JPG - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Here is a link for a free Yanmar Service Manual
http://j30.us/files/yanmar-manual.pdf

Dave.
I have a 3GMD. I purchased an oil pressure sender and a gauge. I was planning to install these ( and use with the existing press switch/light).
Is this worthwile or just somthing else that could leak oil? If I did it, what is the best way to connect the pressure sender engine?
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post #22 of 37 Old 09-09-2011 Thread Starter
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"When you crank the engine with the decompression lever engauged it holds the valves open that is the only difference. "

A light bulb went off in my head. A few days ago I turned the engine over with a ratchet and socket in one hand and a can of fogging oil in the other. I thought I had to turn the engine while spraying the oil because the valves would be opening and closing. Now with the above info all I have to do is spray the oil into the air intake hole.
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post #23 of 37 Old 09-09-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by casey1999 View Post
I have a 3GMD. I purchased an oil pressure sender and a gauge. I was planning to install these ( and use with the existing press switch/light).
Is this worthwile or just somthing else that could leak oil? If I did it, what is the best way to connect the pressure sender engine?
You could use a brass street tee fitting and use both the original light and new pressure sender. If done right it wont leak. Use thread tape or thread sealant.


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post #24 of 37 Old 09-09-2011
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"When you crank the engine with the decompression lever engauged it holds the valves open that is the only difference. "

A light bulb went off in my head. A few days ago I turned the engine over with a ratchet and socket in one hand and a can of fogging oil in the other. I thought I had to turn the engine while spraying the oil because the valves would be opening and closing. Now with the above info all I have to do is spray the oil into the air intake hole.
Just be carefull how much you use. Read the instructions. It is easy to create a hydraulic lock inside the cylinders and damage the engine.

It is always a good idea to turn the engine over 2 revolutions by hand (by wrench and stop cable plulled out) after any repairs or spraying to make sure that it does not lock up from liquid in the cylinders. eg. excessive oil or water backing up into the cylinders..
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post #25 of 37 Old 09-09-2011
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I'd been advised that using a "T" for any lenth of time is a very bad idea. Apparently the two lines coming out of the top of the T act like torque arms and every vibration is amplified--until something in the T splits.

FWIW.
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post #26 of 37 Old 09-18-2011 Thread Starter
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Ahhhh, the sweet song of the diesel.She started the first time I pushed the start button on the maybe the second rev. She was spitting black for about 30 seconds. Probably all that fogging oil I sprayed in. Throttle works, she idles around 1000 rpm, seems high, more quiet than I thought it would be, engine kill linkage works too. One huge check mark done on the book of things to do.

I have the fuel return line going to a can to catch all the old fuel. None came out, in fact no fuel came out. I thought about 10 % was injected while 90% was returned to the tank.

I also learned I don't like bleeding the fuel lines or changing the oil. I think mechanical devices to do this are in my future. An electrically operated oil pump to suck the oil out of the sump and an inline electric fuel pump to charge the lines.

Thanks to all who suggested the proper course of action.
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post #27 of 37 Old 09-18-2011
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Congrats! Oil changing is easier when it's slightly warm.. a little plunger type hand pump is all you need. It's nice to have a hose connected to the oil pan drain to make the job even easier. Many people opt to pull it up and out the dipstick tube too.

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post #28 of 37 Old 09-19-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captainmeme View Post
Ahhhh, the sweet song of the diesel.She started the first time I pushed the start button on the maybe the second rev. She was spitting black for about 30 seconds. Probably all that fogging oil I sprayed in. Throttle works, she idles around 1000 rpm, seems high, more quiet than I thought it would be, engine kill linkage works too. One huge check mark done on the book of things to do.

I have the fuel return line going to a can to catch all the old fuel. None came out, in fact no fuel came out. I thought about 10 % was injected while 90% was returned to the tank.

I also learned I don't like bleeding the fuel lines or changing the oil. I think mechanical devices to do this are in my future. An electrically operated oil pump to suck the oil out of the sump and an inline electric fuel pump to charge the lines.

Thanks to all who suggested the proper course of action.
I do not get fuel out of my return line on my 3GMD either. I also do not seem to get to full RPM rated.

I would think if fuel was not going back to the tank through the fuel return line, then the fuel injection pump must not be pumping enough fuel. I have a new yanmar lift pump and all my filters are new. Engine runs ok, and powers boat fine, just does not make max rpm.

Any ideas what would cause this?
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post #29 of 37 Old 09-19-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by casey1999 View Post
I do not get fuel out of my return line on my 3GMD either. I also do not seem to get to full RPM rated.

I would think if fuel was not going back to the tank through the fuel return line, then the fuel injection pump must not be pumping enough fuel. I have a new yanmar lift pump and all my filters are new. Engine runs ok, and powers boat fine, just does not make max rpm.

Any ideas what would cause this?
Start with the easy/obvious. Disconnect the throttle at the engine and see if manually moving the lever you can get full RPM. Could just be an adjustment of the cable.
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post #30 of 37 Old 09-19-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captainmeme View Post
Ahhhh, the sweet song of the diesel.She started the first time I pushed the start button on the maybe the second rev. She was spitting black for about 30 seconds. Probably all that fogging oil I sprayed in. Throttle works, she idles around 1000 rpm, seems high, more quiet than I thought it would be, engine kill linkage works too. One huge check mark done on the book of things to do.
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