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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance > Engines > Diesel
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Diesel This is a forum dedicated to diesel engines and their applicable accessories.


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  #31  
Old 09-19-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xymotic View Post
Start with the easy/obvious. Disconnect the throttle at the engine and see if manually moving the lever you can get full RPM. Could just be an adjustment of the cable.
I have done this. The throttle control at the engine is at the maximum postition, and engine still below max rpm.

I would think the engine should always have some return fuel no matter what the throttle position, but maybe I am wrong. I do not have a good understanding the relationship between the injector pump and the fuel injectors.
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  #32  
Old 09-19-2011
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Originally Posted by Captainmeme View Post
Ahhhh, the sweet song of the diesel.She started the first time I pushed the start button on the maybe the second rev. She was spitting black for about 30 seconds. Probably all that fogging oil I sprayed in. Throttle works, she idles around 1000 rpm, seems high, more quiet than I thought it would be, engine kill linkage works too. One huge check mark done on the book of things to do.

I have the fuel return line going to a can to catch all the old fuel. None came out, in fact no fuel came out. I thought about 10 % was injected while 90% was returned to the tank.

I also learned I don't like bleeding the fuel lines or changing the oil. I think mechanical devices to do this are in my future. An electrically operated oil pump to suck the oil out of the sump and an inline electric fuel pump to charge the lines.

Thanks to all who suggested the proper course of action.
Although it probably does not meet code, I installed a Moeller fuel bulb between my diesel tank and the Racor fuel filter, then next comes the yanmar fuel filter at the engine. I also installed a fuel bypass line (with ball valve that I can shut). Note: The bypass line runs to the engine fuel return line, which goes to the tank (this works well as you do not need to run an extra line to the tank or need a new fitting on the tank.). When I want to prime the system (after changing filters), I open the bypass valve and squeze the bulb. The entire line is now primed up to the yanmar fuel filter. Now close fuel bypas valve. Now losen prime screw at top of fuel filter and squeeze until no air comes out. Then, if you need to prime futher, losen fuel inlet line at the fuel injection pump and squeeze. Works for me great. You could substitute the primer bulb for an electric fuel pump, but I was concerned about breaking the yanmar lift pump diapham and causing fuel leak. Some also do away with the yanmar lift pump and go with an electric fuel pump at the tank, but what if there is a fuel leak in the line to the engine- now the bilge will fill with fuel. With the squeeze bulb, this cannot happen, as line is under a slight vacuum under normal operational conditions.

The plastic washer on the fuel filter bleed screw should be replaced say every few years as it does crack and will allow air into the system, and engine stalling.

Last edited by casey1999; 09-19-2011 at 03:46 PM.
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  #33  
Old 09-19-2011
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Don't worry that you have little fuel coming out of the return line if you have a plunger type injector pump. The return line is only there to deal with leakage past the plungers an injectors which is a small but significant amount. Say 1 to 2 % of fuel burnt.

N.B. There is a type of pump/governor which does bypass large %s of fuel but I don't think it is fitted to a 3GM.
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Old 09-23-2013
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Re: Starting a diesel that sat for 18 years.

You don't get much return flow on a 4 stroke diesel. 2 strokes like Detroit Diesels and others with common rail systems return a lot of fuel to the tank.
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Old 09-26-2013
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Awesome!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Captainmeme View Post
Ahhhh, the sweet song of the diesel.She started the first time I pushed the start button on the maybe the second rev. She was spitting black for about 30 seconds. Probably all that fogging oil I sprayed in. Throttle works, she idles around 1000 rpm, seems high, more quiet than I thought it would be, engine kill linkage works too. One huge check mark done on the book of things to do.

I have the fuel return line going to a can to catch all the old fuel. None came out, in fact no fuel came out. I thought about 10 % was injected while 90% was returned to the tank.

I also learned I don't like bleeding the fuel lines or changing the oil. I think mechanical devices to do this are in my future. An electrically operated oil pump to suck the oil out of the sump and an inline electric fuel pump to charge the lines.

Thanks to all who suggested the proper course of action.
This is a true testament to the bulletproofness of Yanmar Diesels. Hard to screw them up as long as one does basic upkeep and maintenance. Love my 3GM30 motor.
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Old 09-26-2013
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Re: Starting a diesel that sat for 18 years.

Congrats Captainmeme...Expected nothing less from Yanmar GM.
Now be sure to replace your brand new 18 year old impeller and
belts, you can keep the old for spares but suggest you keep
additional new ones on board.
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  #37  
Old 09-27-2013
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Re: Starting a diesel that sat for 18 years.

Congratulations, now go sailing quick before winter hits.

And BTW:



Seriously, new to you boat, 18 years of sitting around. Pictures darn it.
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