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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance > Engines > Diesel
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  #1  
Old 10-08-2011
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Fuel Filter and Base for W30 Westerbeke

We have a 1979 Cal 34 with Westerbeke 30 engine. We stripped the threads in our
fuel filter base which took a Wix 33166 fuel filter. So, we ordered the new
Westerbeke fuel filter assembly #19509 because the old one was discounted. It
looks like the flow is reversed from the old model so we hooked it up to match
the arrows.

However....the old banjo nut is longer than the new one and has a smaller hole
in it, whereas the new banjo nut on the top is so short that we can't get the
old banjo fitting around it and have threads to screw into the filter base. The
new one also has a bigger hole in it (which is why, we're assuming, we were
having high rev issues as in our previous post). Does anyone know what banjo
fitting I need for this?

Or, does anyone know a different fuel filter base we can use that is more
similar to the old (original) one?

The old fuel filter is type FS with part number 5836B020, whereas the new one is
type FS with part number 5836B710.

Thanks for the help
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Old 10-08-2011
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"However....the old banjo nut is longer than the new one and has a smaller hole
in it, whereas the new banjo nut on the top is so short that we can't get the
old banjo fitting around it and have threads to screw into the filter base. The
new one also has a bigger hole in it (which is why, we're assuming, we were
having high rev issues as in our previous post). Does anyone know what banjo
fitting I need for this?"

Carp,

Can't help you with the fitting issue but I wouldn't think the flow volume through the filter would effect the high rev issue on start up. If it is not a cable or linkage problem I would suspect a high pressure pump / governor problem. As asked before, did the engine ever run properly and has there been any recent work done on it?

Dabnis
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Old 10-08-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dabnis View Post
"However....the old banjo nut is longer than the new one and has a smaller hole
in it, whereas the new banjo nut on the top is so short that we can't get the
old banjo fitting around it and have threads to screw into the filter base. The
new one also has a bigger hole in it (which is why, we're assuming, we were
having high rev issues as in our previous post). Does anyone know what banjo
fitting I need for this?"

Carp,

Can't help you with the fitting issue but I wouldn't think the flow volume through the filter would effect the high rev issue on start up. If it is not a cable or linkage problem I would suspect a high pressure pump / governor problem. As asked before, did the engine ever run properly and has there been any recent work done on it?

Dabnis
Thanks for the reply. We just checked the cables and linkage and they are fine. It is all attached and has the right "travel." The engine has run properly for the last 1.5 years we've had the boat and 200ish hours of use. The only thing we have done to the engine recently is change all the fluids and oil filter, which it worked just fine after. Then I went to change the Racor primary and the on-engine secondary filter, and once I got the new filter base and filter installed and re-primed this happened. So...I believe it to not be a random problem since it was working fine right before this.
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Old 10-08-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carpevelum View Post
Thanks for the reply. We just checked the cables and linkage and they are fine. It is all attached and has the right "travel." The engine has run properly for the last 1.5 years we've had the boat and 200ish hours of use. The only thing we have done to the engine recently is change all the fluids and oil filter, which it worked just fine after. Then I went to change the Racor primary and the on-engine secondary filter, and once I got the new filter base and filter installed and re-primed this happened. So...I believe it to not be a random problem since it was working fine right before this.
If possible, it might be worth a try to re-install everything back to before the high rev issue and see what happens, or to temporarily by-pass the filter in question?

Dabnis
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Old 10-08-2011
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Thanks again for checking back. No, I can't reinstall everything back because I can't get the union nut into the filter base because it's stripped.

As far as bypassing the filter, there a lot of hoses/pipes on this filter. On the left side is the inlet from the Racor. On the right side is an outlet hose to somewhere (fuel pump?) and an inlet back from somewhere. On the top of the filter is what looks like a return from the injectors attached by a banjo fitting to the fuel return line back to the tank. How would I bypass this? I've been looking at the diagrams and reading about diesels but haven't found anything good about it.
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You might try LEYLAND PARTS Knoxvillr Tenn.these are tractor engines 154,4/25.18009007224.They might have the original filter,or have some advice.marc
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Old 10-09-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carpevelum View Post
Thanks again for checking back. No, I can't reinstall everything back because I can't get the union nut into the filter base because it's stripped.

As far as bypassing the filter, there a lot of hoses/pipes on this filter. On the left side is the inlet from the Racor. On the right side is an outlet hose to somewhere (fuel pump?) and an inlet back from somewhere. On the top of the filter is what looks like a return from the injectors attached by a banjo fitting to the fuel return line back to the tank. How would I bypass this? I've been looking at the diagrams and reading about diesels but haven't found anything good about it.
Sounds like they use the filter as a "distribution" point, kind of complex. I assume this is the secondary engine mounted filter behind the Racor? A long time ago I melted down a couple of two strokes running them too lean trying to get maximum power out of them which I did, for a short time. I am not sure you can run a diesel "lean" as they have no throttle plate to regulate the amount of airflow. I think if they are not getting enough fuel they just slow down or stop. I also assume the injector pump is all mechanical with no electronic "magic" controllers? I am not an expert on anything but have worked on a number both gas and diesel engines over the years. It would appear that your recent filter change may be causing the high rev problem but I can't figure out how or why. The injector pump is the last point of fuel distribution into the engine and that would be suspect to me. Maybe when changing the secondary filter some debris was dis-lodged and found it's way into the injector pump causing the high rev problem?

Dabnis
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Old 10-09-2011
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Thanks guys fort he help. Yes, the filter does seem like a distribution point...hence my confusion! I do believe the injector is all mechanical. I'm going to try to find the old filter base and see...I'm thinking that the pinhole in the union bolt on the new filter is too small (since the new one is MUCH bigger) and this is somehow messing with the fuel pressure/etc.
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Old 10-09-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carpevelum View Post
Thanks guys fort he help. Yes, the filter does seem like a distribution point...hence my confusion! I do believe the injector is all mechanical. I'm going to try to find the old filter base and see...I'm thinking that the pinhole in the union bolt on the new filter is too small (since the new one is MUCH bigger) and this is somehow messing with the fuel pressure/etc.
The high rev problem probably indicates that the engine is getting enough fuel to rev that high, at least under no load. As far as I know when filters plug up restricting fuel flow the engine slows or stops, not running away?
Has there been any changes to the crankcase breathing system? Maybe some where along the line crankcase vapors are condensing and are being dragged into the air flow stream? If possible, you could temporarily disconnect the breather tube from the intake and see if that solves the high rev problem,
but I think that may be a stretch. I still suspect the injector pump. My experience was with Bosch pumps and IIRC if you remove the pump mark the pump flange and the block so it goes back in the same place. To re-set the timing I needed a timing tool. Maybe Westerbeke has a "help" line or something similar?

Dabnis
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Old 10-27-2011
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I like the idea of the return from injectors going back to the day tank or the top of the fuel tank. This allows for self bleeding, better filtering and for fresh fuel in the pump for cooling. Is it possible your engine is now operating at correct pressures and you simply need to adjust the rpm down?
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