Now that I killed the 3gm30 - Page 2 - SailNet Community

   Search Sailnet:

 forums  store  


Quick Menu
Forums           
Articles          
Galleries        
Boat Reviews  
Classifieds     
Search SailNet 
Boat Search (new)

Shop the
SailNet Store
Anchor Locker
Boatbuilding & Repair
Charts
Clothing
Electrical
Electronics
Engine
Hatches and Portlights
Interior And Galley
Maintenance
Marine Electronics
Navigation
Other Items
Plumbing and Pumps
Rigging
Safety
Sailing Hardware
Trailer & Watersports
Clearance Items

Advertise Here






Go Back   SailNet Community > General Interest Forums > Gear & Maintenance > Engines > Diesel
 Not a Member? 

Diesel This is a new forum dedicated to diesel engines and their applicable accessories.


Like Tree1Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #11  
Old 10-24-2011
smurphny's Avatar
Over Hill Sailing Club
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Adirondacks NY
Posts: 2,321
Thanks: 34
Thanked 37 Times in 36 Posts
Rep Power: 6
smurphny is on a distinguished road
It's not necessary to shut water off every time. I just loosen the clamp and pull off the riser feed hose and point it in the bilge if the engine cranks too long for some reason. Haven't had to do that since re-ring job. Without glow plugs, when it gets cold, the Yanmars are likely to crank for a while before catching. I use a QUICK shot of ether if it's really cold rather than crank for too long. Releasing the compression relief levers can also increase speed and compression, getting cylinders firing one at a time. Wish these had glow plugs like the little Kubota diesels which start very easily when cold. I think it is a purposeful oversight in design. These engines are certainly expensive enough to warrant this kind of basic equipment but I guess they have little competition. You can bet if Cummins, GM, or Cat started producing small diesels for sailboats, you'd quickly see some improvements.
__________________
Alberg 35: With a philosophical flourish Cato throws himself upon his sword; I quietly take to the ship.
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #12  
Old 10-24-2011
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: HI
Posts: 2,665
Thanks: 2
Thanked 10 Times in 10 Posts
Rep Power: 4
casey1999 is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by smurphny View Post
It's not necessary to shut water off every time. I just loosen the clamp and pull off the riser feed hose and point it in the bilge if the engine cranks too long for some reason. Haven't had to do that since re-ring job. Without glow plugs, when it gets cold, the Yanmars are likely to crank for a while before catching. I use a QUICK shot of ether if it's really cold rather than crank for too long. Releasing the compression relief levers can also increase speed and compression, getting cylinders firing one at a time. Wish these had glow plugs like the little Kubota diesels which start very easily when cold. I think it is a purposeful oversight in design. These engines are certainly expensive enough to warrant this kind of basic equipment but I guess they have little competition. You can bet if Cummins, GM, or Cat started producing small diesels for sailboats, you'd quickly see some improvements.

I have the Yanmar 3gmd, direct sea water cooled. It has lasted 30 years and still going strong. I like the simplicity of the direct sea water cooled engine and if built right, they seem to last. Looks like no one makes a 20 hp direct sea water cooled engine now, or do you know of any?
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #13  
Old 10-24-2011
smurphny's Avatar
Over Hill Sailing Club
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Adirondacks NY
Posts: 2,321
Thanks: 34
Thanked 37 Times in 36 Posts
Rep Power: 6
smurphny is on a distinguished road
Bet they had beefier castings then. Can't you just order a Yanmar with no heat exchanger and run sea water directly through the engine? The last salt water cooled engine I had was a Chrysler Crown L head These were prone to getting porous over time from salt water. There is some sort of reaction other than oxidation that seems to take place over time between cast iron and NaCl water.
__________________
Alberg 35: With a philosophical flourish Cato throws himself upon his sword; I quietly take to the ship.
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #14  
Old 10-24-2011
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: HI
Posts: 2,665
Thanks: 2
Thanked 10 Times in 10 Posts
Rep Power: 4
casey1999 is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by smurphny View Post
Bet they had beefier castings then. Can't you just order a Yanmar with no heat exchanger and run sea water directly through the engine? The last salt water cooled engine I had was a Chrysler Crown L head These were prone to getting porous over time from salt water. There is some sort of reaction other than oxidation that seems to take place over time between cast iron and NaCl water.
I don't think you can order the engine without heat exchanger. I could buy it and take it off myself, but I do not believe the engine would last long as it probably does not have the zinc installed in the block and head (like a 3gmd does), and the iron is probably thinner and would corrode through faster.

I think what happens to cast iron in sea water is that the iron corrodes away leaving only the graphite- which has little strength and crumbles easily. This is known as graphitization or graphite corrosion. The iron matrix corrodes, leaving behind a porous graphite that has no strength. Significant weakening can occur without much dimensional change.
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #15  
Old 10-24-2011
hellosailor's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 10,039
Thanks: 0
Thanked 50 Times in 49 Posts
Rep Power: 10
hellosailor has a spectacular aura about hellosailor has a spectacular aura about
e-
With remanufactured engines, everything rests on the reputation of the shop. Mack Boring has a good rep, and they also teach owners how to work on their own engines. Depending on where you are and timing...one opiotn might be to call someone there, tell 'em what you did, and ask if this could become a 'teach me how to work on my engine' in some way, so that you could be there either watching, or learning, or apprenticing in the rebuild. Can't hurt to ask.

Other than the rep of the shop, you want to know the warranty they'll give you, and that they are following full factory spec, i.e. not reusing anything that is supposed to be replaced during a rebuild. (Some bolts are torque-and-use-once, others can be reused.)

Even with reputation, if it is at all possible, eyeball the shop. A clean shop where no one is screaming, is always a good sign. If the floors and bathrooms are a mess--so's the work.

If you aren't comfortable with anyone local, I'd recommend Vosbury Marine in Annapolis. A family-owned business with a great name, absolutely top folks to deal with if they can take Yanmar. (I don[t give that kind of praise lightly.) They deliver on time, on price, and they'll tell you up front what your options are going to involve.
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #16  
Old 10-25-2011
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 141
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 12
ereiss is on a distinguished road
yanmar killer update

Well, the insurance company sent a surveyor to look at the engine (we'll see where that goes). Asked for the #3 piston and rod to be removed for examination.

Mack Boring is pricing out a rebuild as they don't have a rebuild in stock. Still waiting to see what the delta would be for replace versus rebuild. Did get an excellent price for a Beta30 which is certainly tempting.

The rebuild will take 2 weeks from when the insurance company completes its review so I will find myself moving the boat to its winter home (Bristol, RI) around Thanksgiving, brrrrrr.

Thank you, all of your thoughtful responses.
__________________
Ed Reiss
Being There
Freedom F38 #154
out of Marion, MA
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #17  
Old 10-26-2011
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 749
Thanks: 0
Thanked 13 Times in 13 Posts
Rep Power: 8
aa3jy is on a distinguished road
I'd seriously consider the new engine route..as I explained privately as to why..
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #18  
Old 10-26-2011
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: HI
Posts: 2,665
Thanks: 2
Thanked 10 Times in 10 Posts
Rep Power: 4
casey1999 is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by aa3jy View Post
I'd seriously consider the new engine route..as I explained privately as to why..
Could you fill us in as to why?
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #19  
Old 10-26-2011
hellosailor's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 10,039
Thanks: 0
Thanked 50 Times in 49 Posts
Rep Power: 10
hellosailor has a spectacular aura about hellosailor has a spectacular aura about
Insurance? That covers hydrolocking your engine??

Some kind of private extended warranty company?
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #20  
Old 10-26-2011
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 141
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 12
ereiss is on a distinguished road
murdered 3gm 30

1. I don't know if insurance will cover it but I put it in the category of "it's worth a try". They had the survey come out this week to look at it. We'll see what happens.

Now have pricing and choices;

1. Rebuild by Mack Boring, 6 month warranty (from when it splashes in the spring) cost, about $8,200 all in (remove, rebuild, reinstall).
2. Can purchase a new Beta30 for about the same amount but install will be somewhere between 50 and 100 hours.

So option 2 costs twice as much as option 1 (no, not planning on doing a self install even though Beta says 50% of buyers do it themselves). I have a hard time thinking that new is twice as good or will add that much "value" to the boat if/when it needs to be sold.

What am I missing (other than piece of mind)?
__________________
Ed Reiss
Being There
Freedom F38 #154
out of Marion, MA
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

 
Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may post attachments
You may edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Yanmar 3gm30 F....removing Drive disc S34 Diesel 16 01-12-2012 09:09 PM
Yanmar sticky throttle (3GM30) ddaggett Gear & Maintenance 0 02-01-2011 12:25 AM
Yanmar 3gm30 transmission olepedersen@yahoo.com Gear & Maintenance 7 10-06-2008 11:10 AM
IP31 yanmar 3gm30 badsanta Island Packet 10 06-07-2008 12:34 AM
Replacement prop on a Yanmar 3GM30 dave6330 Gear & Maintenance 0 10-22-2007 03:10 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:11 PM.

Add to My Yahoo!         
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
SEO by vBSEO 3.6.1
(c) Marine.com LLC 2000-2012